Gear Review - Metolius Offset TCUs
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Metolius Offset TCUsoffsetsCan you spot the Offset Cams? On a recent Supertopo.com forum thread a person asked for advice on alternatives to Alien hybrids. Generally the majority of the people posting stated that there were no alternatives and just suck it up and order Aliens.... After my recent experience with Metolius Offset TCU's, I'm not so sure that I fully agree... From the Metolius web site: Metolius Offset TCUs are designed specifically for hard to protect flared micro-fissures & pin scars. They use two smaller cam lobes and one larger lobe to accomplish this. Offset Cams are specialized pieces designed to fit in flaring pin scars, primarily for aid climbing. Cams placed in flaring cracks are far more susceptible to pulling out than placements in parallel-sided cracks. Climbers using Offset Cams should be very experienced in the art of cam placement and thoroughly understand the limitations of cams placed in flaring cracks ... offsets Full set of Offsets TCU comparison 2 Standard TCU compared to Offset. Offset Aliens Alien Hybrids (Photo: Chris Miller) Notice the difference in color coding. Offset Aliens detail Alien Hybrids (Photo: Chris Miller) Aliens have a well deserved reputation as the most flexible small camming units on the market, and in particular they have always had a strong niche following with aid climbers and thin crack aficionados. The recent concerns about quality control may have had an impact with free climbers, but for body weight aid placements they still are very popular. Last year I tried to buy some hybrid aliens but they were as scares as hen's teeth, so I ended up purchasing a set of offset tcu's instead. Specifications The Offsets are designed on the successful ultralight pattern, which are the lightest camming units on the market. The main features include:
markings Offset Range FInder System So how do they compare with aliens. The chart below does a comparison between TCU Offsets and Alien Hybrids. There are 5 TCU's compared to 7 Aliens, with the Aliens covering a wider range. spreadsheet First Impressions As you would expect from Metolius, the engineering and manufacturing look very professional and of excellent quality. Take one look at these cams and you know they are not going to fail under their stated strengths. The color coding is easy to figure out and at a glance, you can tell whether it is a offset or a standard cam. The color of the sling denotes the size of the smaller cam lobes, whereas, the tubing color represents the size of the larger cam lobe. offset comparison Standard compared to Offsets. Can you spot the Offsets? The head width between the aliens and TCU's is practically identical so I haven't included those settings in the above chart. Using a ruler I can't tell the difference but if you used a micrometer you might see differences in the .000 range. Maybe I need to buy one... Perhaps the two biggest differences between alien and TCU Offsets are the number of cam lobes and the stem design. You can debate the stem design till the cows come home and I'll leave it up the everyone to argue the pros and cons. In my own findings, bearing in mind that I haven't climbed anything harder than C3 is that the stem hasn't been an issue. I was skeptical at first, but the more I've used them, the more I've come to like the design and understand how it works. I've also started to wonder whether some of my previous understandings about the stem design, where based on fact or fiction. Some reviewers have stated that U steams when used in placements where the axle of the cam is not horizontal to the ground, can cause the force to be transferred to the head of the cam. I haven't found this to be a problem. The cam has held fine in my placements. By the way the U stem design also allows you to clip the aiders into the stem rather than the sling, gaining a few precious inches. Another concern expressed to me was that in thin placements, the stem on the outside of the head could infringe on the placement. I haven't run into this problem either. Hopefully, people with more aid climbing experience can add their two cents worth... Like I said above I don't do hard aid. You would think that three lobes would be narrower than a four lobe cam unit. This is true in the case of Black Diamond C3's, but comparing Alien hybrids and Offset TCU's the widths are pretty much the same. There may be only three cams but the lobes are relatively wide. You would think that three lobes would be narrower than a four lobe cam unit. This is true in the case of Black Diamond C3's, but comparing Alien hybrids and Offset TCU's the widths are pretty much the same. There may be only three cams but the lobes are relatively wide. The amount of force that a cam pushes against the sides of the crack is determined by the cams angle, not the width of the cams. Metolius has some of the lowest cam angles in the business and the angle on these TCU's is 13.25 degrees. This angle determines how much outward force is generated (against the rock walls) in a loading event. A smaller cam angle generates more outward pressure, but gives the cam itself less range. A bigger cam angle develops less outward pressure, but actually gives the cams more range. So, it's a compromise between cam range and holding power. However, the width of the cam face is also important, as it determines how much load is spread out over a given area, thereby reducing the pressure exerted on the rock. For example, take a look at Metolius Fat Cams which are made specificially for softer rock and have wider cams faces. In very soft rock it is possible for very narrow cams to actually trench into the rock and "umbrella the cam open" or pull-out. Something you really don't want to worry about when sketched out above pro! If you find my explanation confusing check out the following link I found on the Metolius website that does a much better job at explaining this. Cams and holding power Another nice feature are the cam stops. This prevent creating an inverted umbrella of the cam. Aliens don't have cam stops. The cams also have the familiar Range Finder system that is featured throughout the TCU design. I'm not sure if anyone actually uses this placement advisory tool, but it's a novel feature to say the least and to new leaders it could be a selling point for new leaders orange TCU Yellow/Blue Offset compared with Yellow TCU Conclusions Offset TCU's really shine in the finger size pocket and pins scars we see on old aid routes that are now being climbed free or with clean aid. I used the orange yellow unit many times on a recent trip to Zion. It was my go to piece whenever I was looking at a pocket or pin scar that was very flared. Places where in the past I might of fiddled in a two cam unit or a tricam, the offset would slot right in and have good lobe contact. I was so impressed with them that I would start talking to myself about them as I bounce tested them enthusiastically. At 49.50 each, they represent great value and I have no hesitation of recommending them. If you want to just pick up a couple, go for the Yellow/Orange and the Orange/Red units, as these are the ones that you will be reaching for with pin scars. I have seen sets online for as low as $185.00. That's about 37 a cam. Aid Climbing is all about having placement options, and I think the Metolius Offset TCU's do just that in adding another arrow to your quiver. For free climbing areas like Lumpy ridge in Colorado, place a few offsets on a biner and you won't even notice the added weight... The next time to go climb George's Tree, they're come in real handy! Disclosure: I paid full price for this set of Metolius Cams. I hope you're enjoyed reading this review and I look forward to your comments. |
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Great write up. I've been wondering about these for a while. You answered most of my questions. |
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Now that's the kind of review I like to see. Thanks. |
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My partner and I recently used these for 2 weeks in Yosemite and they were the best pieces on our rack. Every time we placed one we felt utterly confident in the piece. I like them better than my Alien offsets, which for some reason just don't seem to sit as well in the cracks as the TCU offsets (though I still love my old Aliens). They worked great for aiding on El Cap as well as free climbing routes like the Rostrum and Serenity Crack. I can only imagine they would be incredible at Lumpy Ridge, the Needles, or just about any other crack area. Anywhere the cracks vary in size, are pin scarred, or flaring these will place well (so pretty much anywhere except splitter desert cracks). I actually like the less flexible stem as it makes them really easy to place then the Aliens. Especially when you are high-stepping or gripped free climbing in a difficult position. I don't know who would ever use the range finder except while playing around with them at REI...but I guess that is a plus. |
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I had a couple of errors about the width of the cam and holding power that I've now fixed. I also added a link to the Metolius web site that explains in greater detail about cam angles, holding power, etc. |
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Great review, John. |
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Thanks for the feedback. |
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Hello . |
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John, |
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We used these a bunch on Mescalito, they are awesome. Very aggressive in the pin scars, |
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I'm still not sold on the mastercams so I'm still using the offset TCU's and where they don't fit aliens. Although I've lost some trust with aliens they are still my go to piece in difficult placements. |
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John, |
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I really like the offset TCU's. I used to have non-offset Aliens, and pre c3 bd's. Sold all and use Metolius almost exclusively. I really dig the Supercams, the Mastercams I also like. The only thing is that I do use and old bd 3.5 and 4 cam, along with a new #5 bd, Metolius lacks in the larger cam arena. I wonder what a Mastercam Offset Hybrid would be like, I would hope there would be no lawsuit for design issues.... but...? Are there any reviews of the various hexes out there, I haven't looked super hard, but have yet to come across one. My couple of cents. |
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My partner and I climbed the NOSE with offset Aliens and TCU's. Both were excellent. I backcleaned those TCU's everywhere so I could have them always with me. I felt more confident on them then the Aliens to be honest...and not because of any Alien QC issues (my aliens are mid 90's) - they just snugged up perfectly into those pin scars. Highly recommended for the Valley. |
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Greetings Folks, |
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I've got 3 of the offset TCUs: 1/2, 2/3, and 3/4. These things are incredibly useful for free climbing, cannot speak to aid as I don't do much of it. Unless I'm tackling pure splitters, I'd say these fit better in most situations than normal TCUS (talking about granite and quartzite here). They work better for flares, pin scars, and irregular cracks alike. |
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Does anyone have experience/recommendations re: offset TCUs v. offset Mastercams? |
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Shaun, |
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Shawn, |
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Thanks John! |
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Shawn, there is a review on this page a little way down from the top. |