Hi Mountain Project Community-

So, my cheap Spanish store brand climbing shoes finally wore a hole in them. Now that I'm a more avid climber, I'm looking to invest in a good all around pair of shoes.

I purchased the Evolv Defy shoes from REI and have tried them out once in the gym (love REIs return policy for members). So far, the fit is good and I am liking them. BUT, everyone has these shoes! I saw the Evolv Optimus Prime ( http://www.evolvesports.com/optimus-prime.htm ) and found them at a good sale price, about $20 cheaper then everywhere else. They are coming in the mail now! I will now need to decide between one or the other or BOTH?! What to do?

My question is: do owner's of the Evolv Optimus Prime find it to be a good all around shoe or is it really the specialized overhang shoe that all the reviews I've been reading (after buying it) make it out to be? Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks!

-Chris

Christopher,

Lately I've been carrying two pairs of shoes with me to the crags, The Defy and the Optimus.

I don't have the Optimus Prime, so I can't say what is different. I don't know if they are the same shoe with a velcro strap or if they are entirely different.

I use the Defy on crack climbs, slab climbs, and just about anything. They are about the most versatile shoe out there. That and they are comfortable.

I use the Optimus for overhanging routes primarily. I've also used them on face climbs that require me to make a few foot jams. They are better than you'd guess on slabs too.

I'm still figuring out what to use them for exactly. They are great at a lot of things, I'm not sure they are the best yet. Initially I didn't like them a whole lot, they didn't seem like they'd get the job done. I've pretty much climbed all of the hardest routes I've ever climbed in them though, so it's not too bad.

Whatever their use, I wouldn't dream of dropping my Defy's for them. They are definitely also well worth having.

I got the optimus primes for about 2 months now..and there wearing out fast...i liked them all around esp. edging and overhangs, and come to think of it heels were pretty cherry too, but for me ..they wore out too quick