Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Approach Shoes : find a perfect pair?

  [ Forums > Climbing Gear Discussion ]
  
View Latest Posts in this Forum     Page 1 of 2.  1  2  Next>

 
By Richard
From Fort Collins, CO
Aug 5, 2008
Hiking in RMNP

I sure would appreciate it if you can share your experience with approach shoes, especially if you have found the perfect shoes (for similar use as my intended use, see below) and have wide feet!

I bought a pair of North Face 'Smedge' approach shoes, which were perfect except my feet are too wide ('D' width) and I hope to find a similar shoe that will fit my width better.

[Smedge shoe link: http://lonelyplanet.altrec.com/shop/detail/37058/--Note: this is not a marketing schtick or endorsement!!] Just click link to see the shoe that was almost perfect for me, just too darn narrow. I am looking for something similar, but wider.

Shoe should give provide good lateral and medial support, good traction, be stiff enough, good rands, light weight, etc. I will be hiking in with ~25 pack and I weigh 155 lbs. Longest approach around 7-miles.

By JacobD
From Moscow, Idaho
Aug 5, 2008
On a delighfully exposed traverse on the North Ridge of Mount Stuart.

If your looking for a good climbing pair get the mad rock ones.
If your looking for an all around the five ten guide tennie.

By Pete Elliott
From Co Spgs CO
Aug 5, 2008

I have wide feet as well and am 100% stoked about the Five Ten Camp 4's. I'm about to get my 2nd pair. Scarpa - Vasque - even Guide Tennies are too narrow for my feet. I use the Camp 4's for 14'ers in Colorado - 4th and some 5th class - dragged my climbin' shoes up the Grand and did not even put them on the approach shoes did so well (only Upper Exxum but still...)

Super comfy - breathe well - held up well, (a bit sloppy after 10 months)- great rubber - not a single complaint. Super bitchin' for slabs (if you like that kind of crap... which I do).

By Tony Bubb
From Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2008
Tony Bubb, Mugged for pencils in a Cairo back-alley in broad daylight, 2007.

Maybe I'm going to sound like Emelda Marcos(*) here, but I beleive in different shoes for different job. First and foremost of course is that they fit your feet.

For long approaches and no climbing, I wear a nice "boot fit" pair of Montrail D7's. For flatirons scrambling, where I will be running long distances and climbing easy slabs, the Sportiva Exum Ridge is great (and very durable). This is the shoe that probably 75% of the race group I am in runs in for flatirons scrambles. If the approach is VERY rocky I wear my 5.10 Guide Almighty's (same as 5.10 tennie high-tops).

But if I am going to have to climb cracks and do less of an approach, I fit the approach shoe as a climbing shoe- tight, no socks, and go with my 12 year old Boreal Flyers. They look like old bowling shoes and climb crachs very well.

Main message: if you climb more in your apprach shoes, get more climbing like approach shoes. If you approach more in your approach shoes, get something more boot-fit and sturdy, but with sticky rubber.


(*) Emelda Marcos was the wife of a corrupt Philippino ruler and was known for her extravagant spending. When the Marcos family was finally removed from rule and surrendered the palace, perhaps ten thousand pairs of expensive designer shoes were found there, most never having been worn.

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2008
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route.<br /><br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce_hildenbrand/11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>

If you're doing more approaching than rock scrambling in your approach shoes, check out the Montrail Hard Rock Wide. Light weight, good underfoot protection, and made for wide feet. Aggressive tread pattern is great on loose terrain.

By Unassigned User
Aug 6, 2008

The best approach shoes: Five Ten Insight.

I used them during my trip out to Colorado and they were absolutely amazing. The sole is solid and has climbing rubber where it is needed. It's even tackier when wet! Worth a shot from zappos.com; if you don't like them, send them back for free.

http://www.zappos.com/n/p/p/7237240.html?zv=201%27

By Darren Mabe
Aug 6, 2008
sunset self-caricature

some of my favorites:

#1 favorite approach shoe: Chaco Flips. just wish they had sticky rubber.

LaSportiva Cirque Pro. ugly as sin, but very comfortable. they climb ok, good in aiders. kind of bulky and heavy if you use as a descent shoe.

510 Guide Tennies are comfortable and climb very well, but dont last very long. to soft in aiders.

510 guide almightys were really good. great support being a high top. climbed awesome. dorky lookin as hell, and good in aiders. they also didnt last very long.

with any approach shoe, if i fit them like a climbing shoe, they climb pretty well but dont hike very comfortable. conversely, if i fit them as an approach shoe, they climb sloppy.

By Wayne Densmore
From Superior, CO
Aug 6, 2008

Five Ten Insight gets my vote. I always have to try on a ton of different shoes and since I have a wide forefoot, most are uncomfortable. The Five Ten has one of the wider toe boxes.

Got mine at Neptune Mountaineering. Went in and talked to a shoe guy who really knew their stuff - He looked at my foot, and pulled 3 shoes that had a large toe box and all 3 were reasonable, but the Five Ten was the most comfortable. Also good for climbing!

By Lee Smith
Aug 6, 2008
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE" your rope

Darren Mabe wrote:
...510 guide almightys were really good. great support being a high top. climbed awesome. dorky lookin as hell, and good in aiders. they also didnt last very long...


I have had a pair of 5.10 Guide Almightys for 8 years and they are on their second resoling. Rock and Resole put on a Stealth C-4 dotty tread and they perform great. I also have another pair unused in a box ready to take over when these finally give up the ghost.

I have heard 5.10 as a brand don't last long but I have found just the opposite to be true. Perhaps my relatively low weight (@145 nekkid) may have something to do with it. It certainly can't be my stellar (non)footwork.

By John Langston
Aug 6, 2008

I've got a pair of Evolve Stryker approach shoes.

In them I have climbed several buildings downtown, freesoloed dozens of cracks 5.9 and under, led up to 11+ in them, hiked Longs and done the diamond approach, and worn them on dates.

They don't yet have so much as a broken stitch.

I don't know if they'll fit your foot but they are probably the best approach shoe made.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Hinesburg, Vermont
Aug 6, 2008
Johnny B. Good.  RRG, KY.

Every since Montrail began producing the Hardrock (5 years ago), I've owned nothing else. I'm also an avid trail runner, so I use a second pair for my longer runs (20+ miles), as they provide the greatest lateral and medial support, as well as offering the rommiest toe box around (I've run in Brooks, LaSportiva, Inov8, and 5.10). The sole is rugged and gives me a lot of confidence on steep, loose, talus, not to mention they have a burly upper which allows me to kick things without hurting my feet. Montrail, however, was just purchased by Columbia Sports about 1.5 years ago, and, although I haven't tried the new Hardrock, I hear it's not the same. Good news, though...you can still find the original Hardrocks online. Last I saw, Altrec, Campmor, Sierra Trading Post, and Zappos still had them in stock.

By Richard Radcliffe
From Louisville, CO
Aug 6, 2008

Darren Mabe wrote:
#1 favorite approach shoe: Chaco Flips. just wish they had sticky rubber.

I've had Tevas resoled with sticky rubber. Any decent resole shop should be willing and able...

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Aug 6, 2008

I will second Anthony's advice on the 5.10 Insights with one caveat. I've worn 5.10 approach shoes for nearly 20 years I think (starting with the old five tennies). They seem to change the models nearly every year, which is frustrating, although some advances in durability have resulsted from this process. I am sold on five ten approach shoes.

Now, here is the caveat: the Insight is a good light shoe and has very good traction wet or dry as Anthony notes - even good on pure ice. But, the Insight design is more low cut with fewer laces near the top than in previous models of their basic approach shoe. This sets the stage for the foot moving in the shoe when stepping on radically shifting angles (such as on talus). I find that this tends to make my feet sorer (especially if wet) because of the rubbing than in previous models. Be sure to crank the laces down tight when negotiating this type of terrain.

By jason w
From Pocatello, ID
Aug 6, 2008

John Langston wrote:
I've got a pair of Evolve Stryker approach shoes. In them I have climbed several buildings downtown, freesoloed dozens of cracks 5.9 and under, led up to 11+ in them, hiked Longs and done the diamond approach, and worn them on dates. They don't yet have so much as a broken stitch. I don't know if they'll fit your foot but they are probably the best approach shoe made.



Does anyone have any experience with the Evolve Maximus? I've heard others speak well of the Strykers, but I would prefer a high top, since my ankles are pretty fucked up. Outside of the Mad Rock Fury and the Exum Guide, there don't seem to be a lot of choices.

By John Langston
Aug 6, 2008

jason w wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with the Evolve Maximus? I've heard others speak well of the Strykers, but I would prefer a high top, since my ankles are pretty fucked up. Outside of the Mad Rock Fury and the Exum Guide, there don't seem to be a lot of choices.



I have the Maximus as well.

It's not an approach shoe. It's a wall boot. It's design is to get up basic handcracks, stand in aiders, and hump a pig back downhill once done. It's not really designed for long hikes but it is designed to allow you to leave all your other shoes at home.

I climbed the Scenic Cruise in the black with them. They were the perfect shoe to walk down in, climb the route, and walk back to the car. Way better than carrying sandals or shoes down just to carry them out. I wouldn't want to walk more than a few minutes in them even though they'd be perfect for all day scrambling.

Make sense? They are a climbing shoe you can do other stuff in, not a walking shoe.

By Richard
From Fort Collins, CO
Aug 6, 2008
Hiking in RMNP

It's wonderful to see so much Tribal Knowledge being shared. It's been a great help to me.

I decided on the 5-10 Insights after reviewing all the posts and checking out all the shoes on the web. Since the Insights are made with a 'D' width I hope they will be perfect for me. I made the decision to order a pair from Zappos: with free shipping and free return shipping (if I don't like them) Zappos seemed like a zero risk no-brainer.

I still have my North Face Smedge approach shoes, which though too narrow in the foot-box for me, work great on slabs and cracks, and edge pretty well too--they just hurt my feet too much packing in long distances on the trail. I posted these in the 4sale forum at 50% off if anyone with narrower feet is interested . . . otherwise I will likely still use them from time to time on short approaches and walk-offs

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Aug 6, 2008

Richard wrote:
It's wonderful to see so much Tribal Knowledge being shared. It's been a great help to me. I decided on the 5-10 Insights after reviewing all the posts and checking out all the shoes on the web. Since the Insights are made with a 'D' width I hope they will be perfect for me. I made the decision to order a pair from Zappos: with free shipping and free return shipping (if I don't like them) Zappos seemed like a zero risk no-brainer. I still have my North Face Smedge approach shoes, which though too narrow in the foot-box for me, work great on slabs and cracks, and edge pretty well too--they just hurt my feet too much packing in long distances on the trail. I posted these in the 4sale forum at 50% off if anyone with narrower feet is interested . . . otherwise I will likely still use them from time to time on short approaches and walk-offs


Richard, I forgot to mention that - my feet are wide as well, and that is another reason why I've always liked the 5.10 approach shoes. I think you'll be satisfied.

By Darren Mabe
Aug 6, 2008
sunset self-caricature

if your feet are wide, but flat (pancake feet), then you might have trouble filling the volume of the Insights without cinching the laces as far as they will go. in my experience.

By Unassigned User
Aug 6, 2008

You're welcome.

By Richard
From Fort Collins, CO
Aug 6, 2008
Hiking in RMNP

Anthony Pham wrote:
You're welcome.


Many thanks . . .

By Jeff Fiedler
Aug 6, 2008

I like the Montrail CTC, and I especially like that its on sale in various places for $30+ (which I guess means other people don't like it?).

It has a stiffer sole than a pure trail runner, which I like if I'm going to be doing any kind of approach of the type you talk about (up to 7 miles). But I'm over 200 pounds, so trail runners just get too floppy for me on angled terrain, and don't give me enough cushion on rocks if I'm schlepping gear on a real approach.

I have size 13 feet, and wide, and the CTC feels snug but has never given me blisters or hotspots.

By Tony Bubb
From Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2008
Tony Bubb, Mugged for pencils in a Cairo back-alley in broad daylight, 2007.

Richard wrote:
Since the Insights are made with a 'D' width I hope they will be perfect for me.


DOn;t know if this is common knowledge, but I think 'D' is the default width proportion for mens street shoes. Which is to say, if unlabeled, that's probably what they are.

Women generally have slightly narrower feet by proportionand 'C' is the default width for women's models.

By michael.repsher
From Boulder, CO
Aug 6, 2008
On top of Pig's Ear WV

I got the Kayland Crux/ I like them a lot.

By jack roberts
Aug 7, 2008

Hi,

my name is Jack and I've been a climber for over 40 years. I've got wide feet. Probably size 43.5 and EEE. I didn't mean for this to happen but I've been pushing my feet into tight shoes for years. They hurt alot. But a couple of years ago I found La Sportiva Cirque approach shoes and my life in the mountains has gotten better.

My profession is guiding and I've been guiding alot of easy fifth-class fourteeners this summer and been soloing many 5.5-5.7 routes on rock and these shoes ROCK. They are durable, sticky AND most importantly, they feel comfortable and stable all day.

I recommend these. They keep their structure longer and the quality of their construction and materials is higher and longer lasting than others. If they fit your feet.......and they do mold well, then get them.

Jack

By freerangequark
From Buffalo Grove, Illinois
Aug 7, 2008
Halfway up Devil's Tower.

Has anyone tried the Madrock Switchback?

It came recommended to me by a friend, but I haven't been able to find anyplace local that stocks it for me to try on. I prefer not to buy shoes online.

-Glenn

By Geoffrey M
Aug 7, 2008

Absolutely, the LaSportiva Cirque Pro.

I've had a pair of Guide Tennies for a year or two and hate them. They are tight in the toe, but loose in the heel. I got huge blisters on both heels on an approach in Red Rocks. Also, the lacing system is a major PITA. You practically have to unlace the whole shoe and tighten it one set of holes at a time to get it tight.

The Cirque Pro, on the other hand, fits like a glove. As soon as I slid my foot in, I knew I liked it. It hugs the heel, has good support and fits my wide feet beautifully. I haven't climbed in them much yet, but they seem like they will be every bit as good for that as the Guide Tennies, but more so because my feet are more secure in them. The lacing system is straight off of the Mythos, so they lace down tight without a lot of fuss, like they ought to.


  [ Forums > Climbing Gear Discussion ]
Page 1 of 2.  1  2  Next>