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Jun 17, 2013
"Which of these summits are climbers asked NOT to fully ascend. That's is they have to stop x feet below the summit proper. Why?

Changabang, cho oyu, latok 1, nanga parbat or kangchenjunga?"


Kangchenjunga. Accordingly, George Band, Joe Brown and others whose names I've forgotten stopped a few feet short on the first ascent in 1955. The reason is the belief that gods live on that summit. I think.
flynn
Joined Feb 9, 2002
86 points
Jun 18, 2013
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di B...
The Stoned Master wrote:
Reinhold messner free climbed the first known 5.11a in europe. What route and where in europe? What year? Who was his partner? Hint: his partner would die on a 8000m peak years later and messner would catch a lot of shit for it. Truthfully my memory isn't perfectly clear on who his partner was, I "believe" I'm right. If I'm wrong. Oh well. Well get the truth then somehow.


In July 1968, Reinhold and Guenther Messner climbed the west face of the central pillar of Sass d'la Crusc. Messner's original line is rated UIAA VIII, which is usually translated into 5.11d. During the second ascent, Heinz Mariacher found a traverse that is in the 5.10 range and avoids the crux. No one else led the crux for at least fifteen years.

Guenther died in 1970. Reinhold also did the first ascent of another line on Sass d'la Crusc with Hans Frisch in 1969: The Great Wall. Reinhold devotes pages of "Seventh Grade" to both ascents. He regards the crux on the west pillar the hardest free-climbing move he ever made.
brenta
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 2, 2006
72 points
Administrator
Jun 18, 2013
Day Lily.
Flynn and Brenta good job! there are Gods in deed they say on that summit. reinhold and his brother were a badass duo. The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Administrator
Jun 18, 2013
Day Lily.
what was Black Diamonds name before it was Black Diamond? why the change in names/energy? what year(s) did this all happen? The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Jun 18, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
what was Black Diamonds name before it was Black Diamond? why the change in names/energy? what year(s) did this all happen?


It was 1989 I think. They were originally Chouinard Equipment.
I'm pretty sure he (Yvon) was losing money and so filed for bankruptcy.
Peter Metcalf (who was an employee) bought him out, moved the company to Salt Lake and renamed it "Black Diamond"
SendaGorilla
From Boulder
Joined Jul 29, 2010
42 points
Administrator
Jun 18, 2013
Day Lily.
nice dude! if i recall correctly the reason Yvon was losing money was lawsuits. why the lawsuits? i recall the reason being there were no "warning: climbing is dangerous" and some people sued since, well, climbing turned out to be dangerous and the suers were injured or killed (and their families sued). anyone else hear this/confirm this? The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Jun 18, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
I would like to learn something (or a lot) new today about climbing. Not just rock or ice but ALL climbing disciplines! My question to you all: what city was Mallory in when he uttered the famous phrase ”Because they are there”? Why was he there (what was he doing)?


So, I guess I'll tackle the very first question you asked:
Unfortunately you (along with most people) have miss quoted him.
The "original" quote ( although it TOO caused lots of controversy about whether or not he actually said it...or at least in that way....some say the reporter paraphrased his answer) was actually " Because IT's there". And it was in response to a New York Times reporter's question : " Why do you want to climb Mount Everest?"
It was asked right before his final attempt on Everest.
SendaGorilla
From Boulder
Joined Jul 29, 2010
42 points
Jun 18, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
nice dude! if i recall correctly the reason Yvon was losing money was lawsuits. why the lawsuits? i recall the reason being there were no "warning: climbing is dangerous" and some people sued since, well, climbing turned out to be dangerous and the suers were injured or killed (and their families sued). anyone else hear this/confirm this?

That's exactly right! There were several "product-liability" suits...plus he was also nota actually turning a profit....
I wonder why??? Certainly everyone loved/s his equipment...&.practically the only company doing it at the time...wonder why he wasnt making money off them?
He definately learned SOMETHING and applied it to his next business venture :-)
Definitely is doing better over at Patagonia hah
SendaGorilla
From Boulder
Joined Jul 29, 2010
42 points
Jun 18, 2013
Hey Stoned Master, a got another Mallory question for ya:
What mountain was Mallory''s friend referring to when he asked him " Have we vanquished an enemy?" And what was George's famous three word response to that question?? (My favorite climber quote by the way)
For extra credit: what year was it?
SendaGorilla
From Boulder
Joined Jul 29, 2010
42 points
Administrator
Jun 18, 2013
Day Lily.
alright Senda you asked a solid question. i did not know the answer. i pondered/deduced and couldnt get it.

i did learn the answer via the internet which was cool since I read alot I didnt know about Mallory like he put up a 5.9 around world war 1! thats gnarly. i didnt know he was free rock climbing like he was. also didnt know he didnt do that well in school (not surprising, look at his wanderlust/adventurist mind set)

the answer I found: Mont Maudit, 1916, and his reply was "none but ourselves".

that correct? i learned something new. thank you for posting such a solid question. if you think of more ask. if i dont know ill learn something new. its a win-win.

new question: whats the longest time spent (but still lived after the descent) above 26,240ft "the death zone" by a human? what mountain and when?
The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Jun 18, 2013
me
What are the three rules of mountaineering?
Who did John Miur call "doubly happy"?
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jun 20, 2013
At the BRC
Stoned, here's a question I don't know the answer to.

First some background-

Paul Preuss was an Austrian climber back around 1900. He was strongly opposed to pitons and actually believed that even using a rope was somewhat dubious ethically. He did solo first ascents of a number of difficult routes.

What was his most difficult solo first ascent and how hard was it?
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Jun 20, 2013
Our less than official sponsor!
There is a neat little story told about a time Royal Robbins and Warren Harding teamed up to climb at Tahquitz (THAT's big news enough...). Warren had lead a pitch and set up a belay. When Royal got there all but a "wafer" pin fell out and they were both hanging from it.
I once sent Royal a query via email asking what route and belay had this story taken place. He laughed at the question and complimented me for asking such a good question...but couldn't remember. Sigh...
I wonder if any of YOU know...
Christian "crisco" Burrell
From PG, Utah
Joined May 18, 2007
2,274 points
Administrator
Jun 20, 2013
Day Lily.
craghead, mark and crisco I will respond tomorrow. heading home and I have no internet at home. I did start to research Preusse(?) and he has become one of the most fascinating characters in climbing for sure. hes up there with fritz weissner, reinhold messner, jc lafaille, etc as a badass and a motivator for myself.

ill respond tomorrow.

if you dont know about this dude Preusse (i dont remember how his names spelled) LOOK HIM UP. well worth your time to read about him. amazing now, amazing then. by todays standards the dudes still a badass.

solid questions dudes, i love it. thank you.
The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Jun 20, 2013
Great topic.

Here's a more light-hearted, travel related question, that teaches a very important bit of info:

Which state did John Sherman identify as having the worst Mexican food?
rogerk
Joined Nov 6, 2010
1,664 points
Administrator
Jun 21, 2013
Day Lily.
i looked up the mexican food question (see above) and couldnt find it. im going to guess: idaho? good one.

the royal robbins and harding tahquitz question is great. i "googled" the shit out of the two but all i ever read on any link was about their competition. great queation! i dont know. is "open book" the route? total guess.

paul preusses hardest solo ascents have been assessed in the 5.7/5.8 YDS range. i didnt find a clear statement but im going to throw out the north face of planspitze?

3 rules of mountaineering (good/fun one): its always farther than it looks, its always taller than it looks and its always harder than it looks.

john muir refers to "...the man whom lofty mountain tops are within reach..." as "doubly happy"

so howd i do on the few i could find?

whats the answers to the ones i couldnt find? im really interested.

see the questions just above in the previous few comments.
The Stoned Master
From Pennsylvania
Joined Dec 5, 2012
3,666 points
Jun 22, 2013
me
which three routes on El Cap were climbed consecutively in 1993 by a two men party in less than 23 hrs? Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jun 22, 2013
What did I have for breakfast yesterday? Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,651 points
Jun 22, 2013
Hip trouble ...
Gunkiemike wrote:
What did I have for breakfast yesterday?

Not fair! It isn’t fair, my precious, is it, to ask us what it’s had for breakfast?
George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
5,908 points
Jun 22, 2013
Hip trouble ...
I used to have a web page with a dozen or so climbing trivia quizes, several hundred questions in all. I shut it down in 2005 because it was a headache to maintain.

Here is an amusing question from the US Rock Climbing quiz:
Which of the following is a real person, the son of a famous climber?
Royal Croft, Reinhold Twight, Layton Bridwell or Yvon Kauk
George Bell
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
5,908 points
Jun 22, 2013
me
George Bell wrote:
I used to have a web page with a dozen or so climbing trivia quizes, several hundred questions in all. I shut it down in 2005 because it was a headache to maintain. Here is an amusing question from the US Rock Climbing quiz: Which of the following is a real person, the son of a famous climber? Royal Croft, Reinhold Twight, Layton Bridwell or Yvon Kauk

Yvon Kauk
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jun 22, 2013
me
craghead wrote:
which three routes on El Cap were climbed consecutively in 1993 by a two men party in less than 23 hrs?

iam just amazed at that , so i had to post it...
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jun 23, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
i looked up the mexican food question (see above) and couldnt find it. im going to guess: idaho? good one.


Vermont
And he's correct. Even all these years after Stone Crusade.
rogerk
Joined Nov 6, 2010
1,664 points


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