Climbing Trip to Katahdin in Early April--

Climbing Mt-Katahdin

Hey was wondering if anyone had any information on conditions for Katahdin around April 1st- and also general beta/suggestions - for easier mountaineering climbs to the top?

I allready do a lot of rock climbing, -but am expecting ice and ice climbing>? For this time of year-

Suggestions?! Thanks in advance

-ben

There is a ton of snow and ice up there; the South Basin gets very little sunlight; I was there 2/23-2/27 and conditions were full on alpine.

Easier routes include the Saddle Trail(shorter) and the Hamlin Ridge trail (longer but less steep). Please understand that you may be in avalanche terrain, rescue is far away, and just getting to Chimney pond requires 16 miles of cross-country skiing and snow-shoeing with a pack and sled.

Is the park even open then? When is the down tome after winter?

carpemons.blogspot.com/2015…

the link above is the trip report of a climbing trip we took from march 7 to the 10 written by the my more experienced climbing partner, mike. Conditions for us were white out, but this was due to bad luck when it came to timing on the weather. we were planning on doing the Cilley-Barber but due to snow loading over night we changed to Pamola's Fury Left. Our high point was just below the crux pitches where the ice was fat and in condition for climbing. we turned due to a rope core shot and the potential avalanche danger on the snow fields above us.

When we were at chimney pond we heard there was a 15 ft cornice along the ridge of the knife edge traverses. the climbers that were out during to storm experienced long and slow descents. this is mostly due to conditions because the previous day (perfect conditions) saw someone climb the Cilley-Barber in a chicken suit.

So it seems like this is indeed the winter down time - the season ends for camping march 31st...

Does anyone have any suggestions ? Can we expect plowed roads in park- ( since it's technically offseason ) --16 miles of skiing/snowshoeing to chimney pond!! That's wild.

Thanks for the info so far, any suggestions for what is possible for a day use scenario in the park?

I see that wilderness edge campground is nearby --

Thanks !

You just looking to bag a peak? Hike up a trail(?). Frankly, this time of the year just walking up hill can be epic, and deadly. No reason to feel like any more gnar is necessary.

concordmonitor.com/home/157…

It's a big park [thinking Whites, not Katahdin] with tons of access points. Look at a map, point at a ridge, then figure out what parking lot to start at. Expect ice, snow, slush, melt, etc. (?)