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Climbing the nose in July
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Feb 24, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of w...
Remove the honorific there, Dirtbag. That guy's no Captain. Ensign maybe? Midshipman? Or just a regular douche?
I climbed The Trip AND Mescalito in July & we were sure glad when that Sun went around the corner, but it wasn't a gamebreaker. Bring a bunch of water. You'll need it.
Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Joined Feb 13, 2013
69 points
Feb 24, 2013
hahaha omg what a bunch of sensitive sallys you guys all are! What happened to climbers? One comment from an annonymous guy online and you all start crying.... Keep it coming. EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Feb 25, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
EricSchmidt wrote:
hahaha omg what a bunch of sensitive sallys you guys all are! What happened to climbers? One comment from an annonymous guy online and you all start crying.... Keep it coming.


There's a difference between crying and setting you straight. I'm pretty sure you received mostly the latter.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Feb 25, 2013
Drinking with Moses
EB, you should have posted your question to the Supertopo forum. There's more Valley climbers there that know what they're talking about, and they'll usually answer an authentic question without being complete dicks about it.

And yeah, take a lot of water and sunscreen. I like the suggestion of pre-hauling water to Dolt tower. If you change your mind, Half Dome is a great plan B in July.

FWIW, Chris Mac has a personal project to climb El Cap every month this year, so it can be done.
doak
From boulder, co
Joined Oct 1, 2007
98 points
Feb 25, 2013
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't...
I second DOac's suggestion on Supertopo.

Might as well offer my experience though:

I've tried climbing on el cap in July on 3 occasions.. each time I had to bail because I didn't get high enough off the valley floor get relief from the heat. THe last occation, we bailed off Mescalito and passed out / blacked out in the trees at the base.. almost got heat stroke.

If you disregard my experience and decide to go learn for yourself, if doing it in a single push, start the evening before and arrive at the king swing before the sun comes around the following day. If attempting it in capsule style, bring plenty of electrolyte tablets, a couple hundred pounds of water, and get ready to be one tenacious son of a bitch. Having that said, plenty of people have climbed it in both styles in July.
dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Joined Feb 4, 2007
142 points
Feb 25, 2013
If this is your first trip up the Captain, I think the notion of climbing to Dolt Tower, which is a third of the way up, only to drop off water and rap and climb up again is questionable advice. It isn't a bad suggestion if 1) you didn't have to climb thru the hotter lower part of the wall only to get to the cooler part of the wall and then bail/rap off and then have to climb the hotter, lower part of the wall again. There's no guarantee that other people won't drink it if you don't get up there quickly enough.

2) You'll have to fight again thru the crowds at the base, which can be the toughest part of getting established: people will be fixing, jugging up other people's lines, etc. It can be a real mess.

3) Even with extra water, your bags are still going to be lighter than anyone doing a 5 or 6 day aid route. Those folks manage just fine.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Feb 25, 2013
Marc H wrote:
There's a difference between crying and setting you straight. I'm pretty sure you received mostly the latter.


Hahahahahahaha. hahahah. Oh boy, you certainly "set me straight". I will never do that again!
EricSchmidt
Joined Feb 3, 2013
5 points
Feb 26, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
EricSchmidt wrote:
Hahahahahahaha. hahahah. Oh boy, you certainly "set me straight". I will never do that again!


Oh, I'm sure you'll continue to be an ass in the future given your attitude. But I'm also sure that the point was effectively made that you were unnecessarily being a DBag to EB and your assumptions about his motives were most likely way off base.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Feb 26, 2013
I think that with adequate planning (i.e. an early start and bringing enough H20) the Nose is reasonable in the summer. Try to keep your bags as light as possible, with bringing enough water, and move fast in the mornings. The higher you go the cooler it will be. Also, consider an umbrella or sun shade of some sort for the belayer. My buddy used one on Watkins in hot weather and said it was a lifesaver.

Ryan
Ryan Curry
Joined Jun 4, 2008
453 points
Feb 26, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!
20 kN wrote:
So while the Nose may not be a huge accomplishment when compared to other El Cap walls, I think it is still a respectable accomplishment; far more than claiming some 5.13 sport send or V10 boulder problem send.


Maybe that statement will have more validity when you can actually claim experience in climbing 5.13 or v10? Oh, and nobody gets "guided" up a 5.13 free climb.
camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,369 points
Feb 26, 2013
Cold day at Smug's
camhead wrote:
Maybe that statement will have more validity when you can actually claim experience in climbing 5.13 or v10? Oh, and nobody gets "guided" up a 5.13 free climb.

And I doubt that anybody that gets "guided" up the Nose actually does any climbing. Rather, they jug the whole route. So if that is how one is guided up the Nose (which is a 5.13 free climb!), then I could certainly have a guide take me up a 5.13 or a V10! It's apples to oranges. I do agree that it would be easier to train a 5.13 climber to get up the nose than it would be to take any climber who has climbed the nose and train them to be a 5.13 climber. But both are proud accomplishments in my book!
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
209 points
Feb 26, 2013
Stop posting on mountain project and go climb rather than ripping on a dude that want to go climb! Peter Hurtgen
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Dec 30, 2011
85 points


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