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Climbing the nose in July
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By EB
From Winona
Feb 16, 2013

Looking at the only chance to get on the nose this year as the first week of july.. anyone been up there that time of year?


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 16, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

the whole valley scene seems to be a bit hot by then,,,,,,try Sept or so.....


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Feb 16, 2013

EB wrote:
Looking at the only chance to get on the nose this year as the first week of july.. anyone been up there that time of year?

It is very hot on the floor. But once you get a few pitches up, the wind will keep you somewhat cool. Take at least 1.5 gallons per person per day. It is going to thoroughly suck to haul that much water.


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By MikeS
From Boulder, CO
Feb 16, 2013

Haul a bunch of water to Dolt Tower at nighttime and stash there. That's going to be the most brutal block if you do it during the heat of the day.
Then jug your lines to Sickle in the dark and cast off.


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By prod.
From Boulder, Co
Feb 16, 2013

Should not be too crowded then. I climbed Zodiac in August, it was 100+/- on the floor, and hot as fuck on the wall. Wish we would have had more than 1 gallon each per day.

Prod.


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 16, 2013

Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....


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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Feb 16, 2013

EricSchmidt wrote:
Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....



Douche


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 16, 2013

Bud Martin wrote:
Douche


Loser


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Feb 16, 2013

EricSchmidt wrote:
Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....


Well, he makes a fair point. Why suffer on something that is heinously hot and out of season, when there are plenty of great places to go climb big routes that are perfectly in season. Take a trip to the Hulk, or Elephants Perch, or Squamish, or the the Bugaboos, and save the trip up the Nose until sometime when you have some free time in spring or fall. Everything has its season, and something is always in season...why not roll with that?


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 16, 2013

JCM wrote:
Well, he makes a fair point. Why suffer on something that is heinously hot and out of season, when there are plenty of great places to go climb big routes that are perfectly in season. Take a trip to the Hulk, or Elephants Perch, or Squamish, or the the Bugaboos, and save the trip up the Nose until sometime when you have some free time in spring or fall. Everything has its season, and something is always in season...why not roll with that?


Agreed.


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 16, 2013

Turd Ferguson! wrote:
I think climbing the Nose stopped being spray-worthy about 40 years ago, douche.


haha you thought wrong. People spray about sending a 40ft sport route or a 5 foot boulder problem, yet you think they wont spray about one of the most classic lines in the world? Thats hilarious...


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 16, 2013

Turd Ferguson! wrote:
So what exactly is your point, Eric Schmidt? I think the only thing that you have managed to prove in your posts is that you are a douche.


Reading comprehension Turd?

Point 1: Why would you suffer on a climb totally out of season when there are plenty of other lines in prime condition? Probably so you can spray...

Point 2: Turd you are wrong, people still spray about the nose.

Any other questions?


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Feb 16, 2013
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Eric,

Maybe s/he's climbing it in July because that's when s/he has free time and it's

EricSchmidt wrote:
...one of the most classic lines in the world[.]


Eric Schmidt wrote:
Thats hilarious...


What's hilarious is that you're assuming that s/he wants to climb it so s/he can spray about it. I'm sure the fact that it's "one of the most classic lines in the world" has absolutely nothing to do about it.


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Feb 16, 2013

Turd Ferguson! wrote:
I think climbing the Nose stopped being spray-worthy about 40 years ago, douche.

The Nose may be the easiest graded line on El Cap. But it is still a full-on grade VI wall that is 31 pitches long. Most climbers cannot and will not ever be able to climb the Nose. When you consider all the gym rats, boulderers, 5.8 adventure tradsters and sport climbers, it is probable that less than 10% of climbers can top out on the Nose. Possibly less than 5%.

So while the Nose may not be a huge accomplishment when compared to other El Cap walls, I think it is still a respectable accomplishment; far more than claiming some 5.13 sport send or V10 boulder problem send.


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By Mark Hudon
Feb 16, 2013
On the North America Wall in 1977.

It could be awesome, it could be way too hot, there is really no way to tell until you get there.

Good luck, have fun, be safe!


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By matt davies
Feb 16, 2013

I claimed a 5.12 send on-line with only 3 years of posting experience. It took me another 6 months to claim the Eiger Nordwand. To this day, I can't tell you which was harder.
And, pre-emptively, I'm a douche and a tool.


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By matt davies
Feb 16, 2013

Turd Ferguson! wrote:
With nearly 700 mountainproject posts it would be really hard to argue otherwise.

Nice! Since the steroid era, that's a respectable tally.
EDIT: Only tools and douchebags post on MP. It's science.


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By Kirk B.
From Boise, ID
Feb 17, 2013
belay slaving on some route I forgot the name of way right of Bloody Fingers.

IF you can go fast, AND start early, then you'll be fine.
Beware The Sun. It has Power in July.


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Feb 18, 2013

Turd Ferguson! wrote:
Did you read the posts above? I'm not saying it isn't a proud accomplishment. I think it is. I was saying that people don't climb it to spray about it today. It gets climbed because it is a historical line steeped in history and a must-do for any well-rounded American climber. It is a respectable accomplishment, I agree, and if someone really wants to do the Nose I think they should go for it, even in July. And what is more of a respectable accomplishment is highly debatable. I will say that I climbed the Nose as a teenager like 15 years ago with about 2 years of climbing experience at the time. It took me many more years and far more effort before I could climb 5.13.

I did read the posts above. I was just adding that the Nose is not some gym climb. I am not sure that many people climb any climb specifically so they can spray about it. If they do, they are tools. Who the hell climbs a route so s/he can brag about it? You climb a route because you want to climb it! If you decide to brag about it, okay, sure, whatever.

As far as 5.13 vs the Nose goes, I know that climbing 5.13 can be more difficult in different ways. I was more or less making a generalization that some hard sport climbers and boulderers can have a narrow field of experience. Certainly not all do. However, many do. I know a person that can boulder V12 but does not know what a sliding X is. I know another that can onsight V9 but cannot top out on a 5.10c sport route. On the other side, all successful wall climbers are diversely experienced. Good luck finding someone that can top out on El Cap, but does not know what a sliding X is or cant climb 5.10+ sport. ;)

Edit: I guess I do know one wall climber that cannot climb 5.10+ sport. Any guesses anyone? I will give you a hint: he is from Canada.


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By Nick Zmyewski
From Newark, Delaware
Feb 18, 2013
the frozen topout during a winter ascent

20 kN wrote:
Edit: I guess I do know one wall climber that cannot climb 5.10+ sport. Any guesses anyone? I will give you a hint: he is from Canada.


Maybe if he drank a little less cobra


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By JohnnyG
Feb 18, 2013

In response to the original question - Yes, I've been up there in July a few times. There will be a few other parties on the wall, but not many.

We took a gallon of water per day per person.

Afternoon showers were a welcome treat.


rico and mash in a summer el cap storm...a welcome respite from the heat
rico and mash in a summer el cap storm...a welcome respite from the heat


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By EB
From Winona
Feb 19, 2013

Sweet, thanks. And yes, after sending i will start my own forum to simply spray how bad ass I am... Send me your email if you want me to notify you when its up. I'll try to spray daily to meet everyone's needs.

Thanks to those with helpful beta.


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By EB
From Winona
Feb 19, 2013

Sweet, thanks. And yes, after sending i will start my own forum to simply spray how bad ass I am... Send me your email if you want me to notify you when its up. I'll try to spray daily to meet everyone's needs.

Thanks to those with helpful beta.


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By Nate Brown
From Wilson, Wy
Feb 22, 2013
mug shot

It's been a while since I waded in to this cess. Entertainment.

Dude going to EC: like all things, the Captain in July has strikes and gutters.

Strikes: you will have the bridge, base, cliff and route all to your onesie, and ...you very well might have the adventure you are looking for.

Gutters: you might fry your brains like litte eggs and ...you might epic and have to bail resulting in minor depression about the resources and time you have sunken in to a potentially really good/bad idea.

Reccomendations from July EC ascents I've been dumb enough to bite off: bring a boom box, bring twice as much water as you think you need (THIS IS IMPORTANT. DON'F F&@% THIS UP!!), don't bother hauling extra crap like sleeping bags or porta-ledges. Climb as much of the mother as you can in the dark, and bring a few space blankets to rig for shade shelters.

I hope you get it done!!

Best


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By dirtbag
From Bellingham, WA
Feb 22, 2013
i really enjoyed this drive to the tetons... can't wait to make it back to WY

EricSchmidt wrote:
Why not go climb somewhere that doesnt totally suck the first week of july? Oh right, because then you wont be able to spray about climbign the nose....


Woa there captain - he was just asking what it's like in July.

Eric, people will take you more seriously if you're somewhat polite or nice with how you deliver your thoughts. Also, it makes ya feel all good insider (rather than being kind of a dick, which contributes to making you feel.. well, kind of like a dick. I am using the word "dick" with complete objectivity by the way).

Try it out (being nice) for a change. You might find that it enriches your life.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 22, 2013

You can definitely do the Captain in July. As someone up thread wrote, it gets much cooler even a few pitches up. Other people will be up there as well. It will be hotter than if you did it in, say, June or September but if it comes down to climbing it in July vs. not climbing it, then climb it in July. You'll need extra water but otherwise you'll be fine.


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