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By bazinga
From Minneapolis, MN
Mar 22, 2013

I am trying to decide on my next climbing shoe. So far, I've only been climbing in the gym (I started over the winter) and I am hoping to take it outdoors (pretty psyched actually!) now that spring/summer are around the corner. I generally climb 5.10c/d maybe a few easy 5.11a in the gym. I lead climb but at a lower level 5.8/5,9 (and trying to improve on this).

I've been looking at the Miura VS. Is there a similar equivalent that I should be looking at? I believe the disadvantage for this over the Solutions is that relative lack of toeing. Is there anything else that I should be aware of? My street shoe size is 13 but I tried the 45.5 and 45 on the Miuras and they seem to fit really well. The 45.5 seems perfect and the 45 is on the tighter side with some solid pain on the big toe (but it isnt curled in or anything). Is there an expansion issue that I should consider? If the shoe is not going to expand out much, should I go for the 45.5?

I currently have Tarantulas. But here's the weird(?) part. I bought the size 13s and they used to fit me perfectly. But now they seem a good size or size and a half over. I am wondering if my feet shrunk or the shoes expanded like crazy. I did some googling but it seemed like this large an expansion isnt quite normal. I dont know if I can resole it to a smaller size(?). I was thinking of somehow salvaging something out of this to use for cracks and smears. Is this a good strategy? Is there any repair you guys could recommend? My worst case option is to throw it into the washing machine. Is there any other shoes (less agressive) I can look at for cracks and smears? I am concerned about wearing out my Miuras/anything else I look at in the similar range too soon by using it for everything.

Then again, I suppose thats what shoes are for.

Thanks,
Baz!


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By shotwell
Mar 22, 2013

You have several questions here, so I'll try to answer them all.

First, your current shoes are what they are. They're not really ever going to get smaller. It is likely that part of the problem is stretch and part of the problem is that your perception of 'perfect fit' has changed since you bought them. If they aren't sliding on your foot they can still be used as a warm-up, crack, and slab shoe.

Second, if the VS fits you, get it. It will stretch a little, so your big toe should be a little curled. The toe doesn't fit poorly in most pockets, so the difference at your current skill level between these and the Solution is mainly stiffness. The downside of the VS and Solution is primarily price. If you want a do everything shoe at a lower price you might consider the Miura with laces or something like the Scarpa Vapor.


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By bazinga
From Minneapolis, MN
Mar 22, 2013

shotwell wrote:
You have several questions here, so I'll try to answer them all. First, your current shoes are what they are. They're not really ever going to get smaller. It is likely that part of the problem is stretch and part of the problem is that your perception of 'perfect fit' has changed since you bought them. If they aren't sliding on your foot they can still be used as a warm-up, crack, and slab shoe.



Yeah, sorry about the multiple questions and super long post but thanks for taking the time to read through them.

Sadly I cant use my Tarantulas much on tiny holds anymore. They're just flabby. Could be a combination of things as you mentioned.

Thanks for the sizing tip. I think the 45 would be most appropriate then. I'll look up the Miura with laces and the Scarpa Vapor.


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By kurt gregory
From reading, pa
Mar 22, 2013

If you climb a lot on "everything", get a pair for the gym and a pair for the real stuff. Just get what fits the best. The best performing shoe in the world is worthless if it doesnt fit right. If you go to a good climbing shop they should have a wall for you to test them out on. I have a pair of the Vapor V and they fit like a glove, love them!


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By bazinga
From Minneapolis, MN
Mar 22, 2013

kurt gregory wrote:
If you climb a lot on "everything", get a pair for the gym and a pair for the real stuff.


Thanks! I guess I'll do this over time. I had a deal on the Miura VS. So I was looking at it. For a gym shoe, maybe when I have more money, I'll definitely look at the Scarpa Vapor V. I've heard great things about them although I've never had a chance to try them on.


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By shotwell
Mar 22, 2013

bazinga wrote:
Thanks! I guess I'll do this over time. I had a deal on the Miura VS. So I was looking at it. For a gym shoe, maybe when I have more money, I'll definitely look at the Scarpa Vapor V. I've heard great things about them although I've never had a chance to try them on.


They climb a lot like the VS so I probably wouldn't get a pair of each. I just resole old shoes for gym shoes. If you're interested in the Vapor, order from somewhere that you can easily return them if they don't fit.


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By bazinga
From Minneapolis, MN
Mar 25, 2013

shotwell wrote:
They climb a lot like the VS so I probably wouldn't get a pair of each. I just resole old shoes for gym shoes. If you're interested in the Vapor, order from somewhere that you can easily return them if they don't fit.


Thanks a ton for the inputs. I got the Miura VS and I am loving it. I am a little nervous about the Velcros though.


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