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climbing shoes advice!!

Original Post
Jen Ox · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

I have long narrow feet, medium-high arches, tapered toes (except my big toe and second toe are nearly the same length). I've been wearing Evolv Elektra velcro shoes for over a year, and am looking for a more aggressive pair for overhanging climbs and slab climbs with small holds (sport climbing). I've tried on several shoes and they all seem painful (hard to tell which will be best long term). Does anyone have similar feet to mine or know enough about climbing shoes to give me some good recommendations for my foot shape?

Advice will be much appreciated.

Jenni

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

which ones did you try on?

Aarika P · · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0

Try la sportiva miuras or katanas

Jen Ox · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10
Bill Czajkowski wrote:which ones did you try on?
I tried on La Sportiva Miura, Testarossa, Katana, Oxygym, and Solution. I tried on Scarpa Techno. I tried one of mad rock's (don't remember which but it was the most painful). If I tried others I don't remember what they were.
David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 453

I'm in the same boat! I would have recommended Miuras and Katanas too, but it sounds like those didn't work. Did you try the Katana lace version? It's flatter than the Velcro Katana, edges great on vertical stuff and should be more comfy. I would not describe it as an aggressive shoe for big overhanging stuff since the last is not down turned (much) but I have never found an aggressively down turned shoe that is comfortable.

Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

FiveTen Pinks might work for you.

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 20

Miura lace or velcro? The lace is considerably narrower.

You may just have to get used to a less comfortable shoe. I have shoes I can wear all day and shoes that are for more performance climbing. They aren't the same ones. Also, slab and overhang generally call for different attributes in a shoe.

arjun · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 5

You might want to try Tenaya Inti's or Masaai's. I have a size 14 AA (extremely narrow) foot and they fit me the best. Their other models are nice as well but the above mentioned are built on their narrowest last.

MattH · · CO / NM / ME · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,227

The Five Ten dragon or arrowhead would probably fit the bill. I have the same 2nd toe issue and found that only Five Ten (arrowhead, dragon, hiangle, team), Mad Rock (m5 and shark), and Evolv (luchador and shamman) have aggressive shoe toeboxes that accommodate it. Of those, Five Ten's toebox was by far the narrowest in comparison to length, and the dragon/arrowhead had the most uncomfortably high arch for my flat feet. I don't know how the women's models of the various shoes compare, though.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

This is the one thing that only trying on every pair will tell you

One of my partners has real problems with finding shoes that fit ... And only trying on everything will tell you

If you do buy online make sure there free returns and return shipping

;)

Agarciap · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 46

As a guy with narrow feet, I've had some trouble finding good shoes. Here's my two cents: Muira's are pretty wide, too wide for me (mens or womens). Anazazi Pinks are awesome for my narrow feet and can be laced for a perfect fit. I also like Evolv Addicts for an everyday comfortable shoe that I can still work steeper stuff in without a problem.

I have also had good luck with the Evolv Geshido's (narrower than the Shamans but still aggressive, and always cheap online). Evolv's rubber does kinda suck, but I'll take a perfect fit that has to be replaced or resoled more often over a poor fit.

B Jolley · · Utah · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 172

I found the Scarpa Boostic seems to fit narrow feet well.
scarpa.com/boostic

Arin F · · Las Vegas · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 64

From what I've seen in previous posts, I will agree that Anazazi Pinks and Tenaya Masai's are great for what you are looking for. Also, try the Tenaya Ra, those seem to be very popular.

I have the Anazazi Pinks, just got the Masai, muira lace, and the muira vs in two different sizes. I use the Muira VS for sport climbing and bouldering. I use the Muira lace, pinks, and masai's for multi-pitch trad. So far, the pinks are the least comfortable but perform the best.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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