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Feb 27, 2013
black Orpheus
I'm trying to decide between getting a pair of Evolv Geshido lace ups, Evolv Astromans, or a pair of 5.10 Anasazi VCS. None of my local retailers stock these shoes so I'm stuck with ordering online. I love my la sportiva Miuras but they are overly expensive and I want a second pair of shoes that climb as well as they do while I get them resoled.

Any sugestions?
Royal
From Henderson, NV
Joined Jun 11, 2010
201 points
Feb 28, 2013
In terms of style the geshidos will probably be the most similar. that said, the anasazi's would be my vote, i like em better than miuras. that said it took me several tries to fit them right. frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Feb 28, 2013
Those three shoes are very different styles of shoes. The Anasazi Velcro is a great all-rounder like the miura, the astroman would be an all day trad shoe and the shaman is a steep climbing machine.


What type of climbing are you planning to do?
GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Feb 28, 2013
Hot n'Bothered 5.10b on the Long Wall at Summersvi...
Go with the anasazis, they have great rubber and they construct the heel cup with a lot of tension so that your heel gets sucked into the heel cup giving you a great fit. The white lace-up version is essentially the same shoe with laces, and is also a fantastic shoe. zach ruswick
From Grand Ledge, MI
Joined Jun 25, 2012
11 points
Feb 28, 2013
sweagan wrote:
Those three shoes are very different styles of shoes. The Anasazi Velcro is a great all-rounder like the miura, the astroman would be an all day trad shoe and the shaman is a steep climbing machine. What type of climbing are you planning to do?


No mention of shamans in the OP's post.

Realistically, the three shoes he mentioned were pretty similar, and much of the differences in performance would be due to changes in sizing more than the different shoes (the exception being maybe the astroman)
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Feb 28, 2013
Summit of my first tower, the Rectory via Fine Jad...
Blew through my Miuras as well as a set of TC Pros. Ordered the Anasazi VCS and put them on for the first time (other than napping with them on to break them in...) tonight in the gym.

Anasazi VCS: best out of the box performance I've ever experienced and BY FAR the best rubber over La Sportiva's Vibram technology.

You asked for a cheaper shoe and suggested the Anasazi over the Miura. Both are $160 so it's not going to help you there.

Finally, sizing: I also ordered online and lucked out with a great fit that will soon break in and be my go to shoe for harder red rock multi pitch. Street shoe: 13.5, got the 5.10s in a 12.5 and have no regrets
Dylan Weldin
From Austin, Texas
Joined Dec 5, 2010
1,494 points
Feb 28, 2013
Dylan Weldin wrote:
Blew through my Miuras as well as a set of TC Pros. Ordered the Anasazi VCS and put them on for the first time (other than napping with them on to break them in...) tonight in the gym. Anasazi VCS: best out of the box performance I've ever experienced and BY FAR the best rubber over La Sportiva's Vibram technology. You asked for a cheaper shoe and suggested the Anasazi over the Miura. Both are $160 so it's not going to help you there. Finally, sizing: I also ordered online and lucked out with a great fit that will soon break in and be my go to shoe for harder red rock multi pitch. Street shoe: 13.5, got the 5.10s in a 12.5 and have no regrets


I also wear my anasazi's a full size down from my street shoe. Of note: if you pay 160 for anasazi's you're getting a bum deal. I bought my first two pairs from a shop and paid 115 for the first pair and 120 for the second.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points
Feb 28, 2013
black Orpheus
You all are beginning to convince me. How do you think the Anasazi's do in cracks? And yeah, I'm not planning on paying retail for them. Amazon has them for $100 right now. Royal
From Henderson, NV
Joined Jun 11, 2010
201 points
Feb 28, 2013
Sorry, Geshido not Shaman.

To me the Geshido looks very similar in style to the Miura, supposedly they climb cracks realy well.

For Anasazi VCS's I wear my street shoe size and they are sport climbing tight, but I don't like tight shoes anymore. They still perform great for vert face climbing and for crack climbing in that size. Everyone should have a pair of anasazi's! For me they don't feel like they fit very well and the heel is a bit bulbous for me but the still climb amazingly. I think its because of the rounded toe, it alows for more rubber contact than the miura, which I think is a great shoe although they shove my second toe into my big toe which causes an ingrown toe once a year if those are my primary shoe.
GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Feb 28, 2013
One of my first trad climbs, Ooga Chocka at Crowde...
Anasazis all day. 1 size down for face, half size down or street size for crack. Only shoes you'll ever need. sanz
From Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 7, 2011
279 points
Feb 28, 2013
sanz wrote:
Anasazis all day. 1 size down for face, half size down or street size for crack. Only shoes you'll ever need.


this is good advice, I find that a half size down is a good jack of all trades shoe, but street size is better for crack/long days and a full size down is good for bouldering/sprot clamming.

Of note, I think the Galileo's are a better all around shoe. You can size them comfortably and still edge well due to the stiffer last.
frankstoneline
Joined Apr 23, 2009
22 points


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