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Climbing Rescue Rig - What Do You Carry?

Original Post
Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151

As an additional topic to the recently posted Alpine Rack question, what do you carry for self-rescue and/or fallen lead rescue? Do you opt for nothing due to the added weight? Being safety and preparedness minded, I bring the following:

Petzl GriGri 2
Petzl Reverso 4
Petzl Tibloc
Petzl Mini Traxion
Petzl Pulley x2
Prussik x2
Plus all biners and extra cordelette.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

You bring all that on your harness every time you go climbing?

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

Why the Gri Gri and the Reverso? Why not just carry the gri gri?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

There is definitely already a thread on this subject that is not terribly old. And to answer the question, I don't carry anything extra that wouldn't already be on my climbing rack. For multi-pitch trad and alpine rock climbs, that usually includes multiple slings and a cord or two. If crevasse travel is included, that might change the list a bit to include a light pulley/micro-trax.

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 249

You must get into way sketchier shit then me because I've never felt the need for nearly that much hardwear. 2 pulleys and a microtrax?

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,166

My "extra" rescue gear for multi-pitch/alpine:

2 small lockers
1 with 2 prusiks and a cordelette
1 with a tibloc and small knife

Edit to add: In a glacier travel scenario I might throw a pulley in that mix.

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

Even with pulleys what is the chance that you will actually be able to perform a raise?

I only know of one person that had to perform a raise IRL, and they did not have pulleys. Took several hours just to raise about 40 feet. The scenario should have been avoided in the first place, but that is a different issue.

One of my partners talks about carrying pulley in case they have to raise a follower past some moves, but I think in reality this is not practical.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Sat phone

DrRockso RRG · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 815

Single pitch sport cragging typically nothing. When guiding or multi-pitching I typically carry a prussik, cordalette, and gri-gri/guide atc. In a small backpack I'll carry a small trauma first aid kit (a couple trauma bandages, a roll of gauze, roll of climbing tape, benadryl, aspirin, and an epipen.) A small knife, cell phone, extra water, and snacks. Add to that a shell and extra layer depending on weather.

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Clint White wrote:As an additional topic to the recently posted Alpine Rack question, what do you carry for self-rescue and/or fallen lead rescue? Do you opt for nothing due to the added weight? Being safety and preparedness minded, I bring the following: Petzl GriGri 2 Petzl Reverso 4 Petzl Tibloc Petzl Mini Traxion Petzl Pulley x2 Prussik x2 Plus all biners and extra cordelette.
Box of condoms... for safety.

This is a troll right? If its not a troll. Specifically, what will all this stuff be used for?
Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151
matt c. wrote: Box of condoms... for safety. This is a troll right? If its not a troll. Specifically, what will all this stuff be used for?
Do you know what a troll is? Troll would describe a number of MP posters who seek to antagonize and harp on others for their own entertainment. Google it. Moving on.

There was a post with someone asking what an alpine rack was:
mountainproject.com/v/what-…

I consider this as part of my rack, as many places do not have easy access or other (non-troll) humans around. A satellite phone is out of my budget, and so is the $10,000-ish rescue that you will get with a Spot emergency beacon. IMHO, you should only climb mountains with someone who understands how to do basic rescue.

Petzl provides free diagrams of their product functions. You can also find the information in Freedom of the Hills, etc.
petzl.com/en/Sport/Mountain…
Click on the four circles, including the last one, 'Rescue'

A large lead fall can break legs, arms, or cause head trauma and unconsciousness. Carrying a little extra weight for the utility of these pieces is a simple decision for me.

I posted this topic as a separate thread addendum to the 'what is an alpine rack' thread that someone else created so they could see the info, and so I could see what other people carry. Sorry for the duplicate thread, I was unaware of the other.
Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56
Clint White wrote: Do you know what a troll is? Troll would describe a number of MP posters who seek to antagonize and harp on others for their own entertainment. Google it. Moving on. There was a post with someone asking what an alpine rack was: mountainproject.com/v/what-… I consider this as part of my rack, as many places do not have easy access or other (non-troll) humans around. A satellite phone is out of my budget, and so is the $10,000-ish rescue that you will get with a Spot emergency beacon. IMHO, you should only climb mountains with someone who understands how to do basic rescue. Petzl provides free diagrams of their product functions. You can also find the information in Freedom of the Hills, etc. petzl.com/en/Sport/Mountain… Click on the four circles, including the last one, 'Rescue' A large lead fall can break legs, arms, or cause head trauma and unconsciousness. Carrying a little extra weight for the utility of these pieces is a simple decision for me. I posted this topic as a separate thread addendum to the 'what is an alpine rack' thread that someone else created so they could see the info, and so I could see what other people carry. Sorry for the duplicate thread, I was unaware of the other.
And what is the #1 rule for trolls? Ignore them.

I, for one, am interested in this thread. Care to answer some of the questions raised above?
Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

Gerber remix knife so I can cut my partner loose, first thing I'm doing in an emergency, no matter what.

rei.com/product/787206/gerb…

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Rick Blair wrote:Gerber remix knife so I can cut my partner loose, first thing I'm doing in an emergency, no matter what. rei.com/product/787206/gerb…
I just learn recently that you can use a shoe lace for this. I didn't believe so i tried it. Took about 20 seconds

youtube.com/watch?v=e1P5Oh6…
Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969
Clint White wrote:As an additional topic to the recently posted Alpine Rack question, what do you carry for self-rescue and/or fallen lead rescue? Do you opt for nothing due to the added weight? Being safety and preparedness minded, I bring the following: Petzl GriGri 2 Petzl Reverso 4 Petzl Tibloc Petzl Mini Traxion Petzl Pulley x2 Prussik x2 Plus all biners and extra cordelette.
I really think this is a troll(What situation could you use that much gear in?!), but I'll bite:

The only extra gear I bring is a Ropeman II. I feel that this device, along with the one prussic loop I always carry and all my other gear would be more than able to set up several different hauling systems or perform other shenanigans. I'd like to get a DMM revolver to carry as well to improve the efficiency of my hauling system
Jeremy B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
Ashort wrote:I only know of one person that had to perform a raise IRL, and they did not have pulleys. Took several hours just to raise about 40 feet.
Ah, they must have been unfamiliar with the "trundlevator" technique for rapid raising.

To the OP: would you still be able to effect an effective rescue if you didn't have that kit and needed to improvise? I see much redundancy in it.

The original thread is here: mountainproject.com/v/what-…
Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 930

Although I usually do not carry a chalkbag unless the route is hard or very long. Something like linking up Crest Jewel with Royal Arches in Yos or Epinephrine in Red Rocks. Most of my chalkbags have zippers pockets. Inside of the zipper pocket contents are:

  • 1st) A small Knife (the Trango Piranhas are nice), a safety razor blade taped up works OK as well.
  • 2nd) A small Bic lighter (they are smaller than the regular Bics which are also small).
  • 3rd) 1 or 2 headlamps (the tiny ones like the Black Diamond Ion or Petzl E-lite -1 ounce headlamp and the battery will last for 10 years just sitting)
  • 4th) Half a piece of paper towel. This is toilet paper and/or firestarter if need be.
  • 5th - Optional, small space blanket. Sometimes the Mountain Hardware Ghost Whisperer windshirt.


On long or risky routes I often will have old small diameter slings (for prussics) or a Ropeman 2 clipped off or someplace handy just in case.
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Clint White wrote: Do you know what a troll is? Troll would describe a number of MP posters who seek to antagonize and harp on others for their own entertainment. Google it. Moving on.
Your post seem like a troll because you listed an excessive amount of rescue gear to bring on most climbs. These devices are really good if you have to do a lot of hauling and such but seems really silly to bring on most alpine climbs.

For example, why do yo need a gri and a reverso? What system will you build where you need 3 progress captures and 4 rope grabs?

If you are not a troll it would be to your advantage to learn to do more with less and carry more cams. Also, add a knife, ducktape and headlamp to your toy list.
Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

I have a feeling the OP is concerned with crevasse rescue? May not be an excessive amount of gear if travelling as a team of two? Still not sure why the gri gri and reverse though.

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155
Ashort wrote:I have a feeling the OP is concerned with crevasse rescue? May not be an excessive amount of gear if travelling as a team of two? Still not sure why the gri gri and reverse though.
I think he is talking more about lead climbing.

"A large lead fall can break legs, arms, or cause head trauma and unconsciousness. Carrying a little extra weight for the utility of these pieces is a simple decision for me. "
Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 930

The weight of all that stuff will help you fall in case you were not going to before.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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