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Climbing partner around Moab for September to Christmas

Original Post
Per Andersson · · Bern Switzerland · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 150

Hola! I´m a 33 year old guy from Sweden spending the fall in Moab. Would love to do as many of the routes listed below as possible, and don´t mind early starts and long fast approaches. Can lead around 5.10 in the area, but don´t mind aiding or following on harder climbs. Some of the routes will definitely require a ropegun. Also interested in slacklining, hiking and trips to Red Rocks, Zion, Black Canyon, Cochise and Sedona. I´ve climbed trad for five years, and safety is my number one priority. Got a double rack and a rope, but no car. I can climb both weekdays and weekends, but I´m a full time student, which means I will often be unable to climb for a couple of days before deadlines, and will be hesitant to make definite long term plans, not knowing in advance if I will have the time to commit to them or not. I will often be able to make definite plans half a week to a week ahead though.Send me a message on per160@hotmail.com, give me a call on 7204692353, add me on facebook, or check out my profile on Mountain project (www.mountainproject.com/u/106846731) if you´d like to know more!

ROUTES I´M ESPECIALLY INTERESTED IN:

CANYONLANDS (4WD needed)
Standing Rock 5.9, C2, 4p
Primrose dihedrals on Moses 5.11
CASTLE VALLEY
North Chimney 5.9- 3p
The Rectory, The Empirical Route, 5.9+, 3p, or Fine Jade 5.11
Sister Superior, Savior Variation 5.8, A2, 3p or Jah Man 5.10d 5p
FISHER TOWERS
The Hindu, Maverick, 5.9 C2, 2p
COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT
Independence Monument, Ottos Route 5.8+, 6p
ARCH CANYON (close to Natural Bridges)
Dreamspeaker 5.11b, 3p
Lady in a bathtub 5.9, C2, 2p
(Tristins Tower 5.8, A1+, C1, 3p)
TOMBSTONE
(Cenotaph spire 5.8 C1 3p)
(ARCHES NP)
Owl Rock, Standard Route 5.8
Dark Angel, West Face 5.9 A0, 2p
BLACK CANYON
The Casual Route 5.8, 8 pitches, North Chasm View Wall
The Maiden Voyage aka The Red Dihedral 5.9 The Checkerboard Wall
Escape Artist 5.9+ ,7 pitches North Chasm View Wall
Comic Relief 5.10, 5 pitches, North Chasm View Wall
Russian Arete 5.9+ 6 pitches, North Rim Routes
MILL CREEK
Magic Carpet ride 5.10a-
Black Hearted Woman 5.10
Greatful He´s Dead 5.10 +
INDIAN CREEK:
NORTH SIXSHOOTER
Lightning Bolt Cracks 5.11- ****
SOUTH SIXSHOOTER
South Face Right 5.9
South Face 5.6
South Face Angling Crack 5.10 b
SUPERCRACK BUTTRESS
No Name Crack 5.10 ***
The Incredible Hand Crack 5.10 ****
Gorilla 5.10 ***
The Wave 5.10 ****
Supercrack 5.10 ****
Anasazi 5.11- ****
DONNELY CANYON
Unnamed 5.10+ ***
Generic Crack 5.10- ***
Binou´s Crack 5.9 ***
Chocolate Corner 5.9 ***
The Drainpipe 5.10 ***
BATTLE OF THE BULGE
Elbow Vices 5.10 ***
Railroad Tracks 5.10- ***
FRINGE WALLS
Y-Crack 5.10 ***
SCARFACE WALL
Black Uhuru 5.10+ ****
Unnamed 5.10+ ***
Where´s Carruthers? 5.10 ***
Scarface 5.11- ****

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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