climbing on the glassy mountains

perhaps some people don't know there are two different glassy mountains in the upstate of south Carolina.

so, first question: the glassy in pickens county, anyone know if there is any climbing possibilities here? I've driven past this dome many times but never hiked in. it looks like it might not be steep enough for serious climbing but hard to tell. off course there may be access issues as well. anyone ever checked it out?

second, glassy mtn in Greenville county. years ago before it was bought by the cliffs developers people used to climb here. has the CCC ever tried to get access to this cliff? I know that hang gliding is still allowed for some people, but it being a gated community makes it hard on climbing access. still, it would be worth the CCC looking into. thoughts?

Here is where both of these situations stand, as far a I know...

1) Glassy in Pickens: DNR manages this land and basically has a policy of no roped climbing on all of their properties. We have had talks about a policy change 3-4 years ago but it would take a rewriting of the management plan that wasnt going to be possible due to various reasons including budget constraints. The CCC works well with DNR and this is defintely something that will be pursued in the future. This Glassy has good potential for long easy slab to vertical face climbing with many routes being sent in the past. You can take Glassy Mountain Road to the top and the marked trail down to the overlook at the top of the right side of the main cliff. From here you can 4th class around a lot of the top of the cliff to get an idea of how the slab looks. There is also a separate mini face to the right of the main cliff that has supposedly seen ascents too. You can als bushwhack down to the left side of the cliff straight down in the switchback on the approach in. Lots of potential when you first hit the bottom of the cliff too. Much of the land at or near the base is private property, so this causes access hurdles too.

We have been allowed to boulder in the Jocassee Gorges and have built a good relationship with annual trail days...come out to the next one, they truly are a blast, and it helps us show DNR we can be good stewards and possibly effect a future change in roped climbing policy.

2) Glassy on The Cliffs property: Last contact they were not interested in letting folks climb or having a conversation about it.

Stephen Scoff, the SC CCC rep may chime in here too.

So basically you can legally free solo there but not rope up?

Due to how the law is currently written, you got it Meme Guy, free solo = ok, ropes = not ok. Its all about the use of "technical equipment" that makes using ropes and gear illegal...climbing shoes and chalk aren't considered technical equipment, therefore bouldering is ok.

hey, thanks Brad. I figured you would know something about the situation.

having so little rock compared to our northern neighbor, it is frustrating to have such limited access to what there is. we appreciate the CCC for its effort to change that.

From the SC Statute: 123-201
"Rock climbing" means the sport of ascending or descending rock faces of such vertical angle that the climber must use technical climbing techniques to safely negotiate the climb. This includes all free, aided, and friction climbing where ropes, pitons, nuts, chocks, screws, carabiners, snap links, chalk, ropes, fixed or removable anchors, or other similar climbing equipment is used.

Chalk is in there too but I think it unwise to be splitting hairs over statutory details. There are thousands of boulders problems to be discovered in the Jocassee Gorges that once discovered will, I believe, surpass those of the revered Rumbling Bald.

We are unbelievably fortunate to have access to the boulders and I encourage us Palmetto climbers to get out into the woods and enjoy them!

Brad and Stephen- lets grab a few beers at next trail day to chat legal crap. My view from home is Greenville Glassy and the neighboring cliffs. Climbed up there before I ever moved to upsate area. I'm a wee bit connected with some legislators and know a tad about access law….

You name your beer and we'll provide it:) Thanks Sean!

Looking forward to it! Thanks Sean