||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Jason Haas and Tony Bubb, 10/4/07|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||94|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 4, 2007|
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A good climb that starts off slow, but gets more interesting as you go. The crux fingercracks difficulty will be height-dependent, and runs about 5.8 for an average height male.... It could get very hard for someone short.
There is a large, left-facing dihedral, with cracks splitting the wall on its right side. The climb ascends the cracks on the right side of the corner to reach the arete, then up the arete to a small ledge- Climb past the ledge through a small roof on good finger locks and a stem with good gear (5.8 crux, but this could be substantially harder for short leaders). Finish at a good tree and belay.
Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, and perhaps 50 feet uphill of the "2 pins" area....
A standard light rack of cams and stoppers. The anchor up top is a large tree.
To descend, go downhill on the ledge until above the "2 pins" area and rap from a green sling and locking biner from a large tree on the ledge- 65' to the ground.