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climbing near Scottsdale

Original Post
JeffP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 71

so it seems the girlfriend and I will be attending a wedding in Scottsdale this october and we would like to incorporate at least a day's worth of climbing into the trip. I didn't see too much in the immediate area in the routes section so figured id ask here for suggestions. I am thinking an overnight could be possible but we would probably prefer a day trip (<3 hours driving) (is sedona a reasonable day trip?). Ideally we would like to do some quality sport or trad but will climb whatever seems best considering style and distance from Sdale.

grades ranges we would look for:
Sport: 11- to 12+
Multipitch trad: up to 10+
Single pitch trad: up to 11+

From the northeast and never been to arizona so any suggestions are appreciated, thanks!

Jeff

Jacob Dolence · · Farmville, VA · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 806

You will have a lot of options. I'd recommend Sedona for sure, might still be a little warm. The waterfall and granite mountain both have a lot to offer for the grades you are looking for. Paradise forks is also amazing, but a little bit far... but totally worth it. You could hit mulitple crags in the flag area in 2 days.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

Sedona is a short 1.5 hr drive from Phx if you leave before traffic gets going. Granite Mtn about the same time. But a longer approach. Both areas could be very sunny and hot for some folks.

Isolation has sport and trad and 1.3 hrs from Sdale. Yu can easily climb in the shade or sun, if it isn't scorching!

Mt. Lemmon (1.5-2 hrs) is great then cause you can go up and down the mtn easily finding the best temps. Usually not known for multipitch but some trad stuff exists.

Homestead is awesome limestone but requires 4wd making it a 2 hr drive. Great rock and routes.

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

Iso is easy to find, someone posted this link on the trail and area:

toddshikingguide.com/Hikes/…

I love october in AZ but it can be hot in the sun even then.

Boris Kerzhner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Jacks Canyon is 2.5 hrs drive from from North Phoenix. October is one of the best months to climb there. The same goes for the Pit in Flagstaff. Mt. Lemmon is a 3 hr drive from North Phoenix to Windy Point area. It has a lot of great routes: sport and trad. October is a great month to climb there.

MacM · · Tucson/Preskitt, AZ · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 675

I'm a little biased on this point, but I believe Pinnacle Peak and The McDowell's would be an awesome way to spend your time down here in Scottsdale. You can tick many classic Granite routes without having to waste any time driving anywhere, or long approaches. Unlike Granite Mountain or The Dells in Prescott.
Some advice is you better have a decent Trad (Standard Nuts, 12draws, 0.3-4 C4 range) rack for these areas, even if there are bolts. People call the routes sandbagged, but they were just put up in true traditional fashion. I'm a solid 5.10d leader and I can hardly climb above a 5.9 at Pinnacle Peak or The McDowell's. So if you've hardly been on Granite, I would highly recommend these areas.

Side note: A classic McDowell's route is Hanging Garden's on Gardener's Wall, 2 pitch ultra-classic (5.5, trad rating).

Sedona would be a very nice trip to take. Especially If you left early in the AM and hopped on Sedona Scenic Cruise aKa Four Flying Apaches, 5 Pitch Grade III, (5.9, Trad Rating). Don't forget to stop by Javelina Cantina while you're up there too..

The Pit in Flagstaff would still be really nice to go to as well. Lots of smooth limestone sportclimbs to head up, I usually do just a day trip up there from Scottsdale. You can only do so many climbs in a day at altitude..but you still get your time in (Leave at 9am, come back at 9pm).

Paradise Forks SW of Flag is the premier Trad destination in Arizona, highly recommended as well.

Climb on!

"If the answer was 13 RURPS and a Bat Hook, what was the question?"

Manny Rangel · · PAYSON · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 4,789

A great crag for a trad leader in the 11 range would be Tom's Thumb in the McDowells. It is a bit of a walk but a nice one on a fine trail.

On Pinnacle Peak, don't miss Sidewinder if you like hands and overhanging finger finish; anything on the east face is good and retrobolted to boot!

The area is in Scottsdale so you can't beat the drive.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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