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Climbing Moves & Techniques   

Subtopics in Climbing Moves & Techniques:


    The standard flag—the position most climbers learn first.
    Five Techniques for Better Footwork
    It happens to all of us: You’re 10 feet above your last bolt, over-gripping and breathing erratically, and everything feels “off.” What’s wrong? The tension in your body has caused you to lose your balance. But there are ways to get it back, even when you’re mid-route. Bo...
    Amanda Fox at Climbing Magazine
    How to top out gracefully <br />by Mike Clelland
    Avoiding the Beached Whale
    You’ve just hiked the crux of your latest proj. Just a few easy moves and a nasty topout separate you from victory. You stick the final grips with ease, and pull up to the lip. Then it hits you: Your feet are way off the deck, and you’re not sure what to do next. Panickin...
    Chris Van Leuven at Climbing Magazine
    Boinking
    Better Boinking
    Boinking is a little trick that all sport climbers should know. When you’re working a very steep route, falls may leave you stranded in space, too far from the wall to regain the rock. Instead of lowering to the ground, you can often “boink” back up to your last quickdraw...
    Pat Bagley at Climbing Magazine
    Falling <br />by Jamie Givens
    Practice Falls When Climbing
    Just because you don’t actually feel afraid to fall does not mean you are completely comfortable falling. It’s the uncertainty that gets us. We know we might fall, so at committing cruxes we hesitate, second-guess, slap lamely for a hold, or simply let go. What we need is...
    Arno Ilgner at Climbing Magazine
    How to fall safely <br />by Chris Philpot <br />
    How to Fall
    Falling is essential for advancing as a rock climber. The saying goes, “If you aren’t falling, you aren’t trying hard enough.” To progress, you need to try moves that are at the edge of your ability—or beyond—and when you try that hard, you will fall. Toprope falls are th...
    Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine
    Friction climbing body position
    Slab Climbing Techniques
    Friction climbing —holdless slab climbing— can be effortless or desperate, or both at the same time. Strength plays no role; there’s nothing to pull on. Technique and mindset are paramount. Friction climbs typically involve long runouts between the stances where a first a...
    Jeff Achey at Climbing Magazine
    Fig 1. forearm stretch massage
    How to Rest for Redpoint Attempts
    You've just fallen off your project for the fifth time, and now you're back on the ground wondering what to do next. You're still psyched and ready to give it another go, and that forearm burn isn't too bad. But should you rest? If so, how long? Should you keep moving or ...
    Dave Wahl at Climbing Magazine
    Hand jam in constriction <br />by John McMullen
    Hand and Foot Jams for Crack Climbs
    Jamming isn’t something you learned by climbing trees as a child. Instead of grabbing normal holds, you wedge body parts into cracks. It’ll take some practice, but once you learn the techniques, cracks become your roads to success on all kinds of rock. And when the crack ...
    Jeff Achey at Climbing Magazine
    Downclimbing <br />by Mike Tea
    Techniques for Downclimbing
    Whether it’s backing down a runout lead, navigating a sketchy descent, or merely exercising the unlikely (I will sometimes climb up and down the same route, just for fun!), the ability to downclimb (DC) is a skill worth polishing, especially for budding trad leaders. This...
    Mic Fairchild at Climbing Magazine
    How to rest before a crux <br />by Mike Clelland
    Redpoint Resting
    “Just dirt me!” I squawked. Hopelessly hanging 10 feet from the anchor for the umpteenth time, I was nearing tears. A local, who had the route ruthlessly wired, coolly suggested that I “work the rest” more. For me, this “rest” was hardly restful — I’d once managed to comp...
    Brittany Griffith at Climbing Magazine
    3 exercises for better balance <br />by Ben Fullerton
    Exercises for Better Balance While Climbing
    Along with a good pair of shoes and a positive attitude, balance is crucial for successful rock climbing. Without it, your body won’t move naturally on the rock, thus eliminating efficiency and style. We tapped into trainer and hardman Eric Hörst’s knowledge of climbing p...
    Amanda Fox at Climbing Magazine
    Calf lock set up
    The Calf Lock
    One of the most dreaded wide crack sizes is just bigger than your fists but too small for your knees. For most people, this means a four-inch crack. This size usually requires the hand/hand (“butterfly”) stack instead of a fist jam. Although hanging from such a stack feel...
    Pamela Shanti Pack at Climbing Magazine
    Heel toe cam <br />by Jamie Givens
    The Heel-Toe Cam Technique
    You've dogged your last project for the last three weeks. You’ve got the moves, but each time you get into the steep finale, the pump forces you to succumb, and you whip. One member of the peanut gallery below has stated that your Tourette’s cursing is “harshing his mello...
    Chris Van Leuven at Climbing Magazine
    Thumbs up!
    Use Your Thumb for Better Rock Climbing
    Thumbs up! Climbing holds are like snowflakes—no two are identical—and clever use of the thumbs adds important diversity to your gripping arsenal. Here are four “thumb” techniques that could make the difference during your next tough ...
    Adam Scheer at Climbing Magazine
    A chimney rest allows both arms to recover. by Andrew Burr
    Rest for Success
    The best way to maximize your staying power for enduro-packed routes is by resting more often and more efficiently during the climb. You may do endless training laps for stamina, but learning to cop strategic rests mid-route is more likely to win you the onsight on any te...
    Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine
    Phase 1
    Climbing and Training for Hard Offwidths
    Q: “I have climbed a few offwidths, but I want to do a long, wide crack in the desert. I get worked after 50 feet; how do I train for sustained routes with a heavy rack of gear?" A: Long, vertical offwidths are physically grueling—even with impeccable technique. We’...
    Pamela Pack at Climbing Magazine
    Heel Toe Cam <br />
    6 Crucial Wide-Crack Techniques
    I was barely halfway through a 90-foot route when I used the last of my breath to wheeze “Take!” Blood from my skinned elbows leaked through my shirt, and sweat dripped into my eyes when I realized I simply couldn’t climb anymore. The route was the classic 5.9 offwidth Ch...
    Matt Kuehl at Climbing Magazine

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