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Climbing Moonlight buttress in March
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By anant
From salt lake city utah
Feb 13, 2012
city of rocks idaho

Hi,
So My friend and i want to climb moonlight buttress during spring break in march. We both lead upto 11a/b on trad and 12's on sport. I have a little bit of aid climbing experience primarily on single pitch stuff. I am wondering if it is a good idea to climb moonlight buttress or not. I am comfortable on bolt ladders and moving up on cam/ hex placements but i have never done any thing that required me to weight more than 4-5 pieces in a row. I am also not sure if i have a good enough rack for it.
I have 4 #1's 3 #2's 2 #.75's besides other stuff. I also have 2 sets of nuts and a set of hexes.
Any advice / opinion?


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By Nathan Scherneck
From Portland, OR
Feb 13, 2012
He took the whipper while trying to place his #1 Stopper.  So sad.

anant wrote:
Hi, So My friend and i want to climb moonlight buttress during spring break in march. We both lead upto 11a/b on trad and 12's on sport. I have a little bit of aid climbing experience primarily on single pitch stuff. I am wondering if it is a good idea to climb moonlight buttress or not. I am comfortable on bolt ladders and moving up on cam/ hex placements but i have never done any thing that required me to weight more than 4-5 pieces in a row. I am also not sure if i have a good enough rack for it. I have 4 #1's 3 #2's 2 #.75's besides other stuff. I also have 2 sets of nuts and a set of hexes. Any advice / opinion?


The replies in your other posting are good advice. As for the rack, I recommend you consult the Supertopo topo. The most used pieces will be Black Diamond 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5 (or equivalent). The river crossing was mellow as of last week, but March may see warmer temps which will melt snow on the rim and increase flow in the river. I believe it's been a low snow year though, but you should discuss it with the Backcountry Desk in the Visitor's Center when you pull your bivi permit.

Are you climbing it wall style or short fixing? Do you have experience hauling?


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By Thomas G.
From SLC, Utah
Feb 13, 2012
hardcore bouldering

When we did it, we had quadruples in the green-red alien sizes (mixed, some TCU's, some aliens, etc). You can certainly do it with less by leapfrogging and placing stoppers, but really, having lots of stuff in the yellow/orange metolius sizes will make your life easier.

Also, a big cam (or two) isn't a bad idea for p5, it'll get you out of the back of the flare for a few feet and it feels good.

Finally, a few hooks are nice. I found them useful on P2 and P5, if I remember correctly.

I'd recommend fixing until the rocker block(bottom of P4), spending a nice night back in the hotel, and hitting it hard the next morning.


EDIT: Our rack (dug up from an old journal)


1 Set offset brassies
1 Set offset alloys
random bigger stoppers
1 ea. Black/Blue Aliens
3 ea. Green-Red Aliens
3 ea. TCU's 2, 3, 4
2 ea. C4's, .5-3 (#3 not necessary, I don't believe)
1 ea. C4's 4 & 5
Hooks

I felt like that rack was comfortable. No ballnuts, no tricams, and plenty of gear in the thin range.


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By anant
From salt lake city utah
Feb 13, 2012
city of rocks idaho

thank you for the advice. I defniately think i would need some more practice on leading on aid . i have followed but not lead much and i do have experience hauling. we were going to climb it wall style but i think i am going to wait on it and take the advice of climbing some thing like touchstone first.


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By Phill T
Feb 14, 2012

yeah dont camp at the base, illegal and frowned upon.

my TR from moonlight from this past summer:

mountainproject.com/v/class-5-shinanegans-on-moonlight-buttr>>>

I'd say just hop on moonlight and plan to do it over 2.5 long days with a portaledge at either the rocker block or the top of p5 (nice 2' ledge to facilitate gear wrestling). Fix the first day a pitch or three, come down, sleep in the campground. Get up to p5, set up your ledge, fix another pitch if you have time, finish it off the next morning. Each day will be nice and relaxed as you are only budgeting 2-4 pitches, you wont be pressured to climb late or get up super early. Just be sure to remember to eat and drink as you climb (its super easy to forget!). Invest in a big wall sling (yates is super awesome) and build yourself a belay seat. Also a set or two of those offset DMM aluminum nuts are priceless in zion. a hook will also save you some trouble in a spot or two.

know your approach, know your topo, and know your descent. All fairly straightforward in this case, but if you read the TR, still easily fucked up.

have fun and stick with it, stubbornness and a positive attitude are half of what get you up a wall!


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