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climbing kahiltna dome?
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Dec 5, 2012
I can't really find much info on climbing Kahiltna dome off the west buttress. I plan on climbing denali, but before I have time to do that, I wanted to know what the route entails.

Online most sites briefly state its a snow climb and most parties don't rope up. So is this a technical route or slog with "minor" glacier travel? How long would it take to climb this if most parties don't rope up?

Thanks in advance if anyone has any info.
akafaultline
Joined Nov 27, 2007
70 points
Dec 5, 2012
Colby Coombs' guidebook says it's heavily crevassed. He recommends it for acclimating, and if it were me, I'd stay roped up. When are you going? tom303
From Colorado
Joined Aug 6, 2011
196 points
Dec 5, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
I climbed what I think is called "Point Farine" which is south from Kathiltna Dome and around to the east if you follow the horseshoe bowl around. Maybe appropriate to this discussion given who its named after...

I'd recommend a partner and a rope as that area has some slots, to be sure. We had crappy conditions and was thigh deep junk in spots and a few yawning chasms...

Depending on the route, the Dome looks fairly straightward if approached from the north.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Dec 5, 2012
Im hoping to get up there in may or so. How long does the route generally take? Thanks for the info akafaultline
Joined Nov 27, 2007
70 points
Dec 5, 2012
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I have seen the route, but if I were you I'd stay roped up for it. Last season it looked pretty nice, but some good crevasses. At the very worst, a fall could dump you into a hole below. As far as the route looks to me - go to the turn for the West Buttress near Kahiltna Pass. Ascend the pass and then follow the ridge that ascends the dome. Looks like a pretty nice little climb with very likely nice summit photos. Cale Hoopes
From Sammamish, WA
Joined Nov 23, 2012
10 points
Dec 5, 2012
Sleeping on top of Washington column after climbin...
this peak is climbed almost every season by guided teams. Just pick up Joe Puryear's book, published by SuperTopo and you'll find all the info you need. clint helander
From anchorage, alaska
Joined Dec 3, 2007
451 points
Dec 6, 2012
North Buttress Mt. Hunter, AK
Climbed it last May before Denali a in early June. Heavily crevassed is very accurate, I punched through up on the ridge & the whole was huge...It's also very exposed to winds from ridge to summit. Technically speaking (elements & crevasses aside), it's a pretty simple walk with moderate slopes at best. Have fun! AK123
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Aug 9, 2012
667 points


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