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Climbing Injuries, Recovery and Prevention
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Jun 20, 2012
I've just developed a case of rotator cuff tendinitis. I was wondering who else has had this injury, or one similar, and what kind of physical therapy you did/ how long you took off from climbing. What other kinds of injuries have people had? Are there any preventative training techniques that you would recommend to all climbers? MeganLM
From Golden, CO
Joined Nov 17, 2011
0 points
YEEEERRRRR GONNA DIE!!!!!

oh wait that might not apply here...
Jun 20, 2012
The West Desert...it's not just for climbing, suck...
The prehab (prevention) for RC injuries is the same as the rehab protocol. You just continue to do it when you're well on a regular basis.

ukclimbing.com/articles/page.p...
^^^I personally don't like the scaption exercises she shows; while a normal part of a RC strengthening program, they always hurt me. Other than that, pretty standard stuff.

I prefer to do lower trapezius work, like I's, Y's, and T's: billhartman.net/blog/developin...
Aerili
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 5, 2007
2,496 points
Jun 20, 2012
Aerili wrote:
The prehab (prevention) for RC injuries is the same as the rehab protocol. You just continue to do it when you're well on a regular basis. ukclimbing.com/articles/page.p... ^^^I personally don't like the scaption exercises she shows; while a normal part of a RC strengthening program, they always hurt me. Other than that, pretty standard stuff. I prefer to do lower trapezius work, like I's, Y's, and T's: billhartman.net/blog/developin...


I have been dealing with shoulder problems. My physical therapist thinks its SIS (described in that ukclimbing link). My PT gave me those same theraband exercises that are shown in the article. I've noticed an improvement although it's slower than I wish...I've been doing the exercises for 3 weeks and no climbing for almost 2 months. Definitely a good article, nicely illustrated.
Vaughne
Joined Mar 21, 2011
28 points
Jun 20, 2012
Excellent link: billhartman.net/blog/developing-the-lower-trapezius/

I had issues for 3-4 years in my shoulders- basically due to being a small climber (5'1") constantly overextending in the shoulder joint to reach holds. AT one point it was painful (but not impossible to lift my arms over my head without pain). I tried all of the rotater cuff exercies without much success or relief, but when I focused on building strength in the lower traps it worked.
You have to maintain perfect form and I found that doing them at least 5 times a week was key to recreate a better balanced shoulder.

Also, I found someone who did Active Release Technique-activerelease.com/
SMR
Joined Jul 20, 2008
938 points


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