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Climbing in the Gunks today
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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Mar 11, 2013
Rumney

Logan Schiff wrote:
Conditions were amazing Sunday! So dry someone was free soloing madame g's. Even credibility gap was dry though quite cold in the shade and a poor choice in retrospect.


That's promising (the dry, not the cold). Madame G's is always dry though. That's why I asked Simon for specifics, namely to guage how "dry" dry actually is.


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By The Lingering Fart
Mar 11, 2013

What a great weekend!

I am repeatedly amazed at how fast the trapps dry out.


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Mar 11, 2013

Kevin Heckeler wrote:
That's promising (the dry, not the cold). Madame G's is always dry though. That's why I asked Simon for specifics, namely to guage how "dry" dry actually is.


Mac Wall looked very dry too.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Mar 11, 2013
Rumney

Logan Schiff wrote:
Mac Wall looked very dry too.


Yeah, that makes sense (it's pretty steep). Good to hear! :)

Did the snow disappear by Sunday? Doesn't really matter I guess, won't be around after tomorrow. Hopefully we'll get warm weather in the coming weekends.


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By The Lingering Fart
Mar 11, 2013

Kevin Heckeler wrote:
Did the snow disappear by Sunday?


Pretty much, except for the odd oasis of snow here and there.


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By Kevin Heckeler
From Upstate New York
Mar 11, 2013
Rumney

Cool, thanks for the info guys. Good to know and helps me make better future decisions for when I'm deciding on whether to head down / not. I was figuring a 50/50 shot for Sunday, 100% for Monday. Have to work Mondays though. 50/50 aint good enough bettin odds for me usually.


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By Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Mar 11, 2013
Simon Thompson on the classic 3rd pitch of CCK(5.7+) in the Shawangunks, NY <br />Photo credit: Scott Arno

There was a little puddle of water in a jug on Baby so... sorry not actually bone dry. Totally unacceptable conditions... what was I thinking? Could have died.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Mar 11, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

A lot of wet ice too...bah humbug


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By Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Mar 11, 2013
Simon Thompson on the classic 3rd pitch of CCK(5.7+) in the Shawangunks, NY <br />Photo credit: Scott Arno

Yeah told you to come climb dry rock here instead of slush in the 'dax.. Just sayin, son


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Mar 11, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

just sayin'
just sayin'


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By Benjaminadk
From Lake George, NY
Mar 11, 2013
Me

just to be redundant. the rock in the nears was 98.3% dry on sunday. hanging out at belays got a little chilly in the wind but nothing suprising for rock climbing in the winter. a ton of snow melted down new paltz way changing from white to a nice brown in the fields as the day went on. i've actually gotten out in january and february this year as well. the day in january was def pushing it...wet rock, in a cloud, screaming barfies, etc....feb was nice picking days with highs in the mid 40s. the trapps and near trapps face east and sit high, they dry fast with morning sun.


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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Mar 11, 2013

I can't speak for Sunday, but I got out today

Really cold at belays, but the climbing was okay as long as you had layers a hat & gloves for belays.

We only got 2 climbs in but definitely nice to get out.

Shockely's was wet on the 1st belay but nothing you couldn't just skip/move around, but other than any running water from snowmelt all the rock itself was dry

And I onsited City Lights & linked the pitches, so I had an awesome day haha


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By Simon Thompson
From New Paltz, NY
Mar 11, 2013
Simon Thompson on the classic 3rd pitch of CCK(5.7+) in the Shawangunks, NY <br />Photo credit: Scott Arno

I climbed City Lights too! It actually took me quite a bit to figure out the crux


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By Eddie2170
From Orange County, NY
Mar 11, 2013

Simon Thompson wrote:
I climbed City Lights too! It actually took me quite a bit to figure out the crux


Me too, being so short today was definitely a disadvantage, I kept having to commit to blind holds and hope it stuck, but I really enjoyed City Lights, I definitely want to do it again


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By Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
Mar 12, 2013
On Waimea, 5.10d

I was up saturday and monday. Saturday I cleared off some snow from a boulder, toweled off the worst of the moisture and let the sun do it's work...about an hour later I had sent my hardest boulder problem to date (SPRAY, sorry). The rock was wonderfully sticky. Monday was good too, but the cloud cover made it feel a bit colder.


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By WillamR
Mar 19, 2013

Any locals have any words of wisdom about this coming weekend?


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By Gunkiemike
Mar 19, 2013

WillamR wrote:
Any locals have any words of wisdom about this coming weekend?


I predict that if you stay home, you won't climb anything.

I also predict that someone will post here that they were on the Trapps and it was pretty good.

Consider last Sunday: half inch of snow Saturday night, temp in the low 20's. Sunday mix of sun and clouds and temps stayed in mid 30's. Didn't sound to me like rock climbing weather. But the climbing was quite good.


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By Benjaminadk
From Lake George, NY
Mar 20, 2013
Me

forecast looks great. 43 and 46! bring a hat, you'll be fine. wish i could be there myself but apparently there is still some fat ice around these parts.


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By rogerbenton
Apr 4, 2013
Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible.

To all the vehiclely disadvantaged NYC'ers-

My partner and I are driving to the gunks Sunday April 14th.

Leaving nyc around 6am, climbing all day, grabbing a bite and heading home.

There's room in the car for two more people, if anyone wants a ride up shoot me an email-

mrbentontoyou @ yahoo . com


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By GMBurns
Apr 4, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

losbill wrote:
We will have to talk about where Birds of Fire actually goes. I have led it up to the right of and above the block and then stepped left and continued on Watusi a couple of times. On my first attempt on it I had tried to continue it upwards as an independent line since that where the topo in the old guide book indicated it went but bailed left to Watusi. A couple of years ago I followed Ed P. on it as he attempted to take the line shown in the guide book. Ed stepped out right and then up. Pretty exciting. Ed took a pretty good whip when he tried to go up too soon. Got back on and sent it. I have yet to sack up and try it. Thanks for the info on the Recitavist. Pretty impressive effort by Zeb!!! Regarding Dune, if you recall I was there that day. Got a kick out of Zeb when after getting lowered after finishing it he kneeled down and kissed the ground and said "I'm never doing that again." I maybe mistaken but wasn't there another Engberg that has also led Dune?


This is by far and away the best conversation on this thread.

First time I met Steve A was at Crow Hill. I was supposed to meet someone at CH and that person had failed to show on time. The crag was wet and it was my first time there. I didn't think this guy would show up (I can't remember his name, but he's well known in the community in MA. I met him online - the knob I think, hmmm...) so I took off. After walking about five minutes down the path back to the lot this old dude who could barely walk was heading up the path. He said he has just had surgery on his hip (?) and wanted to get some climbing in if I was willing to turn around. I agreed and off we went.

He set a TR on cro-mag and proceeded to ace it. I couldn't get past the traverse. He aced it again. I pumped out before the end of the traverse. He aced it again. I got to the start of the vertical section and popped off. He aced it again and I...well, you see where this is going.

Finally, the old dude decides he's had enough and takes off. I heard voices coming up the trail so I stayed behind to see if it was my friend. Turns out it was. He asks me if I had a chance to talk with Steve Arsenault. I said, "who?" (I was new to the scene in the US - forgive me). My friend tells me who Steve is and I said we had climbed cro-mag. My friend asked me if we got on anything else and I told him no. It was then that I learned Steve had the FFA of cro-mag and had probably climbed it about 10,000 times.

Then my friend looked at me with a puzzled look and said, "come to think of it, cro-mag is the only climb I've ever seen him on."

I chuckled at the thought and proceeded to get the tour of the area. Steve was a real nice guy. I wish I could have given him some more hope as a potential climber that day, however. I hadn't climbed in maybe over a year at that point. It was the only day I've ever been on it.

BTW - I'm on the in on a yet-to-be-released climbing film and have been watching the roughs the past year or so. He's interviewed in it, and that accent of his blows everyone else's away. Barber's and Webster's accents don't even touch Steve's. It's hilarious and awesome all at the same time.


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By Eric Engberg
Apr 4, 2013

GMBurns wrote:
Then my friend looked at me with a puzzled look and said, "come to think of it, cro-mag is the only climb I've ever seen him on."


A few years ago I got Steve on Lizard's Head and he said something like "I need to start doing some of these other climbs". I have also gotten him on Jane a few times. But mostly he still does cro-mag.


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By GMBurns
Apr 8, 2013
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil. <br /> <br />(photo by Isa Vellozo)

Eric Engberg wrote:
A few years ago I got Steve on Lizard's Head and he said something like "I need to start doing some of these other climbs". I have also gotten him on Jane a few times. But mostly he still does cro-mag.


I think that's hilarious. I guess he's had his fill already. Best to him...


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By kenr
Apr 9, 2013

Strange ...
Karl and I got out today. Warm sunny weather, wonderful to be out.
We did Te Dum, Roseland, Shitface, Farewell to Arms, and an attempt at the lower half of To Be or Not to Be.
Great climbing, best day of the season.

We saw no other climbers the whole day.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Apr 9, 2013
Epic free solo with a pack on

Nice, KenR!!!!!!


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By Logan Schiff
From NY, NY
Apr 10, 2013

Awesome Kenr! Trapps was pretty busy both weekend days, as expected. Saturday was beautiful, Sunday much windier and less pleasant. After doing Limelight we saw nobody on the first pitch of Arrow and jumped on only to find 5 people hanging out at the chains at the top of the first pitch...God I wish I didn't have to work during the week. Still was great to get out.


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