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Climbing in Croatia- looking for a local partner/suggestions
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By Risa Romero
Jul 27, 2014
Will be in Croatia August 22nd to the 27th. Never been climbing in europe, looking for a local to show us the best routes! I am interested in single pitch sport, and hope to do lots of deep water soloing, maybe in Hvar or Brac? If you have any experience climbing in Croatia let me know whats good!

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By mrcn
Jul 29, 2014
You can try cliffbase.com for DWS but I suggest to contact owner first.
It will be hot as hell in Croatia in august and a lot of tourists-high season.In october we were able to climb at cliffbase only mornings and afternoon.
You can check hvarclimbing.com for other crags on island.
Omis is pretty close (sport climbing) and I think I've heard something about DWS near Split but don't know details.
My friends recommend Paklenica for multipitch sport but they go there spring or autumn.August will be probably too hot

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By rickziegler
Jul 29, 2014
I was in Croatia in May and just wanted to add a bit. The climbing at Cliffbase is really good but faces south, except for half a dozen routes that get nearly all day shade.
I put up some info on DWS near Pula but really there's only enough for 2-3 days. Again south facing and will be hot.
Paklencia is really good but will be hot. There's a few north facing multi pitch routes on the climbers right side of Anica Kuk. I think anywhere you go in the country is going to be hot but you could make it work chasing shade or starting early/late.

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By Erik Peet
From Provo, UT
Jul 29, 2014
I climbed in Croatia a few years ago. We climbed at a place called Kalnik, near Zagreb, and Dvigrad, near Pula. Kalnik was fun because you are climbing within the ruins of a castle, however the routes were just ok. Dvigrad was a really good cragging area, lots of good short sport routes.

While I was there everyone I talked to said Paklenica has the best climbing. We drove past it in the distance and it looked amazing. Unfortunately it didn't fit in our schedule.

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By Risa Romero
Jul 29, 2014
Thank you guys for all the info! I think we are definitely going to try Cliffbase in Hvar and Paklenica. One more question- we are flying into Milan and then driving to Split. Google says the drive is 9 hours; does that sound correct? Any traffic concerns?

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By rickziegler
Jul 30, 2014
We didn't drive that entire distance directly but I'm guessing with the Croatia border crossing it is closer to 11 hours. There's climbing in Osp, Slovenia which is roughly half way.
No real traffic issues that I remember other than stopping to pay tolls.

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By mrcn
Jul 31, 2014
If it's august and saturday chances for huge jams are almost 100%.Critical places are italian highways around Triest, croatian border and toll gates in Croatia.
If you know your schedules you can check road webcams in Croatia one or two weeks in advance.Same day of the week and time should give you pretty good estimates for border and highway traffic www.hak.hr/info/kamere/

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By Jay Hack
From Royal Oak, MI
Jul 31, 2014
Domzalski in Paklanica is a fun 4 pitch 10a-ish well protected sport route.
Zadar makes a fun rain/rest day.

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