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climbing in Acadia
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By kcradford
From Asheville, NC
Mar 4, 2014
Foot
I am going to be heading to Acadia for a few days this summer with my wife and woudl love to get some climbing in while we are there. The purpose of the trip is not to climb, but we are hoping get one day in while we are in the park. I would like to travel light (1 rope and not trad gear) what sorts of places would fit our needs.

It looks like Otter Clifs would work for us with TR. what sort of gear would I need for this area? where else should I look.

I am also soliciting suggestions for other activities while we are there.

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By wivanoff
Mar 4, 2014
High Exposure
kcradford wrote:
I am going to be heading to Acadia for a few days this summer with my wife and woudl love to get some climbing in while we are there. The purpose of the trip is not to climb, but we are hoping get one day in while we are in the park. I would like to travel light (1 rope and not trad gear) what sorts of places would fit our needs. It looks like Otter Clifs would work for us with TR. what sort of gear would I need for this area? where else should I look. I am also soliciting suggestions for other activities while we are there.


From what you describe, Otter Cliff would be your best bet. There are some staples/eyebolts there for anchors. So, you would need some webbing and carabiners. But, I would also bring some trad gear to build anchors. Using trees for anchors is not allowed. Most people top belay there if they are not leading.

You'd need trad gear to climb at Precipice. Although you could 4th class/5.3 solo to set a TR from the chains on "Old Town" 5.7 there.

Routes at South Bubble are difficult to find from the top.

I don't know much about Great Head. There are some difficult bolted lines there.

There are several guide services in Bar Harbor. Maybe you can do something advanced with them if you don't want to pack all your gear.

Other activities? In addition to all the touristy things in Bar Harbor...Whale watching. Sea Kayaking. Hike over to Bar Island at low tide (Park @ N 44 23.516' W 68 12.605'). Some nice restaurants: Not just in Bar Harbor, visit Bass Harbor, NE and SW Harbor also. Hunter Beach is VERY nice where Hunter Brook flows into the cove (Park @ N 44 18.159 W 068 13.274 and follow the trail). Sunrise on Cadillac Mtn. Hike out to "The Ovens" off Sand Point Road (Park @ N 44 26.137 W 68 15.356). Anemone cave (park @ N 44 20.376' W 68 10.652' and follow trail down and left) Climb the Precipice Trail - semi via ferrata. Afternoon tea on Jordan Pond. Lots of things to do.

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By Travis Dustin
From Hollis, NH
Mar 4, 2014
Lost in the Sun pitch 2
You can set up a few routes at Otter cliffs with just some static ropes/slings but you are limited. If you want to get out for a full day i would bring some gear. Also get out for sunrise to beat the crowds and guided groups and to get a great view climbing that you wont forget. Afterwards go to sand beach for a swim!
Some of the bolts at Otter cliff
Some of the bolts at Otter cliff


Staple at Otter cliffs
Staple at Otter cliffs


How can you beat climbing in a setting like this! ...
How can you beat climbing in a setting like this! Me and my nephew getting ready to climb!


Austin on rap
Austin on rap

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By Nick Grant
From Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Mar 4, 2014
A photo of me on Across the Universe taken by the ...
You'll love the Mount Desert Island area. One day, head north to Winter Harbor where another part of Acadia National Park is located. It's called Schoodic Point, it juts way out into the Atlantic, it's not crowded, and it's beautiful. If you have road bikes with you, the riding around Winter Harbor, Prospect Harbor, Corea, and Gouldsboro is terrific. Once you get a bit farther north than Bar Harbor, it's lot less busy and the scenery is almost as breathtaking.

I also recommend Otter Cliffs as the best place to climb, but, on a nice day, you'll have company.

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By kcradford
From Asheville, NC
Mar 5, 2014
Foot
So it sounds like if I want to get a full day in at otter cliffs I will need some gear. What sizes/types can I get away with some .5-3 c4s and a set of nuts.

Thanks for all the input

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By jim.dangle
Mar 5, 2014
kcradford wrote:
So it sounds like if I want to get a full day in at otter cliffs I will need some gear. What sizes/types can I get away with some .5-3 c4s and a set of nuts. Thanks for all the input


That should be good. You will want long slings around there too both for the fixed anchors and for your own.

But if you are going to bring gear, I would climb at the Precipice rather than Otter Cliffs.

Jim

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By wivanoff
Mar 5, 2014
High Exposure
kcradford wrote:
So it sounds like if I want to get a full day in at otter cliffs I will need some gear. What sizes/types can I get away with some .5-3 c4s and a set of nuts. Thanks for all the input


.5-3 c4s and a set of nuts should be more than enough. You might not use the #3 C4. About 30' of cord or webbing would be useful for tying off large blocks.

The climber's left side of the cliff ("Overhanging Corner" area) has some large blocks that can be tied off for anchors. Lots of places for stoppers, too.

You'll probably need gear for anchors in the center section - roughly from Drunken Sailor and Great Chimney to the start of Wonderwall. .75, 1 & 2 C4s above Great Chimney, IIRC.

The staples/eyebolts shown in the above photos are at the climbers right side of the cliff above Wonder Wall Right, In the Groove, A Dare by the Sea.

I have over 100 pix of Otter Cliffs in my flickr. PM me if you want to see.

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By GMBurns
Mar 5, 2014
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
There are also some harder bolted climbs out at Echo Lake, behind the parking lot. You'll probably be alone if you're there.

South Bubble has some easy slabs with staples / bolts at the top, and access is 5.0 thereabouts, but the better climbing above that requires gear.

Great Head also has bolts at the top for top belaying. These routes are generally harder than what's available at Otter. Otter almost definitely will be busy, and only a handful of routes are available via the staples.

As someone mentioned above, if you're going to bring gear, head to Precipice. It'll be busy there, too, but you'll have a wider selection of routes open to you.

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By Nathan Stokes
Mar 5, 2014
There are Peregrine nesting closures on the Precipice during the summer depending on when you are going to be there. They shut down a pretty significant portion of that face.

The Bee Hive trail is a good morning amusement, it is non-technical via ferrata, just get there before the conga line starts.

The LL Bean Shuttle bus is the best way to get around the most popular parts of the park, otherwise parking is a bear and the roads are mainly one way. We were there last summer and didn't drive the entire 4 days we were on the island.
If you have bikes, take them because the carriage roads are also a great way to get around and they go all over the island and avoid the traffic.

Asticou and Thuyea Gardens down between Seal Harbor and North Harbor are really cool and a good way to spend half a day.

We hiked Cadillac Mountain from the northern trail, did not try the sunrise though. There was a couple staying at the same Inn as us who did and they said it was a zoo, the cars were lined up a couple miles down the road to the parking area and they had to walk.

We stayed in town at one of the Historic "Cottages" and had a grand time, the price was reasonable for 2 people and we got a very nice hot breakfast every morning included. We were 2 blocks from the village green in Bar Harbor.

There is plenty to see and do, just poke around a bit and look for the out of the way things.

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By Max Forbes
From Burlington, VT
Mar 5, 2014
Completely unrelated to climbing, on a clear night make sure you drive to the top of cadillac mountain. We went up around 10/11 the last time we were there and laid out on the rocks for about an hour. Stars are amazing. 100% totally worth it.

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By GMBurns
Mar 5, 2014
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
Nathan Stokes wrote:
There are Peregrine nesting closures on the Precipice during the summer depending on when you are going to be there. They shut down a pretty significant portion of that face. The Bee Hive trail is a good morning amusement, it is non-technical via ferrata, just get there before the conga line starts. The LL Bean Shuttle bus is the best way to get around the most popular parts of the park, otherwise parking is a bear and the roads are mainly one way. We were there last summer and didn't drive the entire 4 days we were on the island. If you have bikes, take them because the carriage roads are also a great way to get around and they go all over the island and avoid the traffic. Asticou and Thuyea Gardens down between Seal Harbor and North Harbor are really cool and a good way to spend half a day. We hiked Cadillac Mountain from the northern trail, did not try the sunrise though. There was a couple staying at the same Inn as us who did and they said it was a zoo, the cars were lined up a couple miles down the road to the parking area and they had to walk. We stayed in town at one of the Historic "Cottages" and had a grand time, the price was reasonable for 2 people and we got a very nice hot breakfast every morning included. We were 2 blocks from the village green in Bar Harbor. There is plenty to see and do, just poke around a bit and look for the out of the way things.


which inn did you stay at?

little known fact: I was the first sunrise bike tour guide on Cadillac 20 years ago (shit, maybe more...gotta stop counting). Definitely a zoo, but here's a tip: partly cloudy mornings are better than clear mornings.

One doesn't need any via ferrata gear on the Beehive.

The shuttle buses are definitely better for sure.

An excellent night hike is the back side of Mt. Champlain on what used to be called the Bear Brook Trail. Sorry, can't remember the new name. It might be the North Ridge Trail, or something like that.

Honestly not sure if the peregrines have ever affected the climbing side of Champlain. They usually affect just The Precipice (as long as I can remember anyway), which is actually just the hiking trail that goes up that side of the mountain (east side). The climbing walls technically have different names and are mostly on the southern side, but people use the term The Precipice because it's easy. The falcons are normally there throughout the bulk of the summer.

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By jim.dangle
Mar 5, 2014
The Peregrine closures do not effect the climbing just the hiking trail.

Jim

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By Nathan Stokes
Mar 5, 2014
GMBurns wrote:
which inn did you stay at? little known fact: I was the first sunrise bike tour guide on Cadillac 20 years ago (shit, maybe more...gotta stop counting). Definitely a zoo, but here's a tip: partly cloudy mornings are better than clear mornings. One doesn't need any via ferrata gear on the Beehive. The shuttle buses are definitely better for sure. An excellent night hike is the back side of Mt. Champlain on what used to be called the Bear Brook Trail. Sorry, can't remember the new name. It might be the North Ridge Trail, or something like that. Honestly not sure if the peregrines have ever affected the climbing side of Champlain. They usually affect just The Precipice (as long as I can remember anyway), which is actually just the hiking trail that goes up that side of the mountain (east side). The climbing walls technically have different names and are mostly on the southern side, but people use the term The Precipice because it's easy. The falcons are normally there throughout the bulk of the summer.


Thornhedge Inn on Mt. Desert St. Wonderful place.

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By Eric Engberg
Mar 5, 2014
jim.dangle wrote:
The Peregrine closures do not effect the climbing just the hiking trail. Jim


Just a minor correction: The closures do not effect the DOCUMENTED climbing.

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By GMBurns
Mar 6, 2014
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
Nathan Stokes wrote:
Thornhedge Inn on Mt. Desert St. Wonderful place.


Yeah, a good place. I grew up with the owner Andy. His grandmother and my grandmother had the first two B&Bs in town.

@eric - heh. have you climbed on the eagle lake side of cadillac yet?

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