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Subtopics in Climbing Gear:


    Parts of a carabiner
    A Guide to Carabiners
    Carabiners are the unsung heroes of the climbing world. They get beat to shit and save thousands of climbers’ lives day after day, all without the slightest nod of gratitude or appreciation for their ingenious form and function. A carabiner is a loop of metal with a spri...
    Andrew Bisharat at Backcountry
    Good nut (left): securely set in a constriction, o...
    Nuts 101
    When many people start trad climbing, cams become their new best friend. They’re easy to use and contract to fit a variety of crack sizes. But don’t underestimate the benefits of their counterpart: the nut. With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inex...
    Julie Ellison and Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine
    How to make a chalk bag
    How to Make a Chalk Bag
    If you can use a sewing machine, in 15 minutes you can custom-make your own chalk bag for about $1, using an old pair of blue jeans or any other sturdy fabric. You’ll only save a few bucks, but the stylish, personalized bag will be one of a kind. MATERIALS: 8” x 14” str...
    Lucas Lombardi at Access Fund
    Example 1
    Prevent Quickdraw Failure
    The death of 12-year-old Tito Traversa, an Italian who climbed multiple 5.14s, shocked the community in early July—not just because of the tragic loss of a young life, but also because of the almost unbelievable way it happened. While warming up at a crag in France, Trave...
    Dougald MacDonald at Access Fund
    The perfect backpack rope coil
    The Perfect Backpack Rope Coil
    There are times when carrying a full pack to the base of a route is cumbersome and inefficient; plus, you might have a packless, walk-off descent to think about. You need a convenient way to carry the rope, and the backpack coil is the ideal method. This system prevents y...
    SP Parker at Climbing Magazine
    Step 1
    Single-Strand Backpack Coil
    Tired of repetitively flaking out a backpack-style rope coil before starting each new pitch? Here’s how to make a single-strand backpack coil that you can unwrap, drop, and then immediately start your lead. Instead of grabbing both ends of the rope to begin coiling, start...
    Chris Van Leuven at Climbing Magazine
    by Chris Philpot
    The Alpine Quickdraw
    You'll often carry several full-length, 24-inch slings on long rock routes or alpine climbs, to reduce rope drag, wrap around horns for protection or belays, or rig belay anchors. But draping multiple slings over your shoulders is cumbersome. The solution? The alpine draw...
    Dougald MacDonald at Climbing Magazine
    Care for Your Climbing Shoes
    Climbing your best means paying attention to footwork before the rubber touches rock. Revive your footwork in three steps: get the right rock shoes, treat those shoes like your firstborn, and give your feet some TLC along the way. See? Your edging is looking better alread...
    Kate Nelson at Climbing Magazine
    Passive Mode
    Tricams 101: A Guide
    The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. These metal nuggets are essentially hybrids: They can be placed passively (like a ...
    Amanda Fox at Climbing Magazine
    Wet-Rope Myths Debunked
    By the very nature of our sport, there will come a time when you’re faced with using a wet rope. Can you safely rappel on it? Can you lead on it? Will water permanently damage the rope? Instead of making an “educated guess” in the alpine, learn the basics here to guide yo...
    Alex Biale at Climbing Magazine
    Photo Credit: Tommy Chandler
    When to Replace Your Climbing Harness
    Your harness is one piece of climbing gear that you absolutely don’t want to fail. Cams and bolts can break, but it’s still possible to survive a fall depending on what backups you have underneath you. Your harness doesn’t have a backup, and you rely on it just like you r...
    Derek Newman at Backcountry
    A retired rope illustrating the inner core and out...
    When To Replace Your Climbing Rope
    Rock climbing with a brand-new rope is a joyous occasion for any climber. You and your partner should revel in its fresh color, impeccable strength, smooth handling, and trustworthy protection; because sooner than you’d like, its color turns dull, it weakens, its handling...
    Derek Newman at Backcountry
    How Strong are Soiled Climbing Ropes?
    The old adage “the person who steps on the rope buys beer” took on new meaning at the 2010 International Technical Rescue Symposium (ITRS) this November. We all accept that dirt reduces a rope’s strength. Presumably, grit inside a rope cuts and abrades the fibers as the...
    Lee Lang at Climbing Magazine
    How to cut a climbing rope
    Cutting a Rope
    The first 15 feet on either end of your rope gets by far the most use, wear, and friction. You’re constantly tying into that section, and, more important, the rope absorbs the impact of most falls there, so that part gets a lot of abrasion from carabiners. These parts wil...
    Julie Ellison and Dave Furman at Climbing Magazine
    Typical trad route
    Big Wall Kit
    Depending on the type of pulling down you’re doing, climbing can vary from minimalist to “everything but the kitchen sink,” and big wall climbing is very much the latter. Doing multi-day routes not only requires aid climbing equipment (protection, aiders, ropes, helmet, e...
    Julie Ellison at Climbing Magazine
    Nuts 102 Fig 2
    Nuts 102
    If you're well-versed in nut usage and passed Nuts 101 with flying colors, then these intermediate skills are perfect for you. First, a quick review. Nuts are passive protection devices, meaning their holding power comes from their wedge shapes, cleverly placed in natura...
    Jeff Achey at Climbing Magazine

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