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Climbing Etiquette - What is it?
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By BurtMachlan
Jul 5, 2012

Mike Belu wrote:
The question is more geared to making the people wait for the second person to lead, which might take a while. It would b faster for the second person to climb without leading.


Then no its not rude at all. You were there first and you can climb the route however you want lead, tr, etc.... Although like you said if you are going to be hang dogging all day on the thing it might be courteous to TR if its above your ability to lead it and get off faster or let the other party play through.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 5, 2012
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

Mike Belu wrote:
Is it a dick move for one person to lead a sport route, rap down and clean it. Then let the second lead it-maybe not get the route the first try and take a while to finish the route--while people a waiting on the route?


No it isn't. The second wanted to lead it as I and almost everyone I climb with would. It isn't like the folks hung a TR on it for the day. If you are lucky they will let you use their draws while the second person rests for the Redpoint.


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By Jeremy Hand
Jul 6, 2012
slopey

We haven't tried the B.B gun approach but we do occasionally throw large sticks at the leader when they're hangdoggin. We yell, "Fetch!" for some satire.

I love rocks.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2012
Bocan

BurtMachlan wrote:
Why would you clean it if the second climber is going to lead it too? Doesnt sound like a dick move just a retarded move.


Because the 2nd might not want to pink point it. They may want to experience the process of their own clips.

As far as that goes for etiquette...first come first served. It's your fault for sleeping in till 8, BUT yeah I won't sit there and hangdog or leave my rope up. We'll each get a go and then pull the rope and move on.

I've also had people climb through the MIDDLE of our belay on a trad climb. Not that we were climbing slow either, they just started up right behind us. Their leader climbed up and over me while I was belaying. Nothing like having a very un-graceful climber kicking you while getting all up in your business.

One overall "rule" is the leader always has the right of way, especially over the people wanting to walk around back and throw down ropes.


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By Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Jul 6, 2012
Summit of Rainier.

I am the person who would be going second. I'm a middle aged nube, so I like the experience of clipping the bolts. Also, being old and heavy, I won't be hang dogging all day. After a few tries, I'll be too pumped and come down-so no worries there. Thanks for the input. Hitting some popular routes at RRG this weekend.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Jul 16, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

I'd say a good rule is just don't be a dick on purpose. It seems everyone wants to have some sort of higher ethical standpoint from which they can scoff at the (in their opinion) less sophisticated and inconsiderate masses...

The very thing that draws many of us to the mountains and climbing in general, the freedom it allows, often ends up pissing off other people...it's kind of unavoidable. (go to the gunks on any saturday with good weather and you'll get pissed off by someone, guarantee it)

I like the idea of no rules in the mountains...no boss-man or piggies to tell me what to do. I like being able to make ridiculous jokes out loud that only me and my friends would laugh about. To be able to howl at the moon when I am camping, and to drink beer well into the night while howling at the moon. That said I respect the mountains, clean up after myself, and in general respect other people when they're around me.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 16, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

You guys ran Aeryn off. Pffffft. Hope you're happy now.


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Jul 16, 2012
25' drop...wheeeeee!

Ed Rhine wrote:
...3. Those people are certainly stupid to do that but on the flip side TRing routes, especially with groups, is quite enraging...


Because nobody here ever got their start toproping. You gotta start somewhere. I know it's kinda unpopular not to hate on newbs on MP, but let's not forget where we came from.

That said, I totally agree that it's poor form to drag ass if there's a line.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 16, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

We didn't know where the toprope climbs were when we started, so we actually tried to set up topropes by descending the scree slopes above the climbs, all the while dropping shit and yelling "Rock! Rock!"


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Jul 16, 2012
25' drop...wheeeeee!

Stich wrote:
We didn't know where the toprope climbs were when we started, so we actually tried to set up topropes by descending the scree slopes above the climbs, all the while dropping shit and yelling "Rock! Rock!"


Dear God.


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 16, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

JesseT wrote:
Dear God.


That was back in 1996. Good times. Being noobs, we miscalculated just how much loose rock was above the bolted routes (a shitload). In fact, most people don't even know about these scree slopes just above the sheer cliffs we all climb on. Most of the time the rock sits up there undisturbed and we can go about our merry ways sans helmets. But in the event of rain storms or morons, the rocks become mobile and continue their inexorable slide downslope.

So think about that next time you are at your local crags.


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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Jul 17, 2012
Me and my Fetish I guess.. ;)

So there's places where toproping is considered taboo or even 'enraging'?


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