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Climbing around the Smithrock/ Bend area
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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jul 28, 2012

Going to be heading up there 13th-21st from Redding, CA. So two questions.

What else is there on the way?

I'm looking to do trad and aid stuff what would you recommend in and around smith rock?

Can onsight 5.9 trad and can make my way up 5.10b, and haven't done much aid (just a single C2 pitch) but want to get on some up there. Was looking at doing some stuff on Monkey Face.


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By JoeR
From Eugene, OR
Jul 29, 2012

Buy or rent Alan Watt's guidebook at Redpoint Climber's Supply in Terrebonne.

Lots of opportunities for aid shenanigans on dubious rock at Smith. Smith aid technicians are a rare breed.

Monkey Face, do the west face variation. It is good fun.

For the welded tuff free routes: Moscow and Super Slab are classics, as well as Moonshine Dihedral, White Satin, first pitch of Peking, Spiderman Zebra to Zion, Lion's Jaw 1st pitch, Trezlar, Kunza Corner,Pack Animal, Karate Crack, Delerium Tremens...etc.etc.etc.

Basalt classics are too many to list. Head on down to the Lower Gorge, Student Wall/Textbooks, and Shakespeare Cliffs.


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Jul 29, 2012
Me and Spearhead

Unless you've got some other reason to be up in Bend area why not head south and stay on the amazing granite in CA?
Not trying to be an ass, it's just that Smith is not so much the trad destination. (The "aid" climbing on the monkey is bolt ladders, or as Joe said, shenanigans on dubious rock)


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jul 29, 2012

Thanks man, yeah I need to pick up a guidebook, the Watts one is the Falcon guide right?


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jul 29, 2012

Brent Apgar wrote:
Unless you've got some other reason to be up in Bend area why not head south and stay on the amazing granite in CA? Not trying to be an ass, it's just that Smith is not so much the trad destination. (The "aid" climbing on the monkey is bolt ladders)


Camping with the parents. And the week after I'll be up in Tahoe and Yosemite Area so I'll get my granite fix :P


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Aug 6, 2012

Any OW in that area or close by?


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