Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Climbing around the Smithrock/ Bend area
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 1.  
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Jul 28, 2012
Going to be heading up there 13th-21st from Redding, CA. So two questions.

What else is there on the way?

I'm looking to do trad and aid stuff what would you recommend in and around smith rock?

Can onsight 5.9 trad and can make my way up 5.10b, and haven't done much aid (just a single C2 pitch) but want to get on some up there. Was looking at doing some stuff on Monkey Face.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Jul 29, 2012
Buy or rent Alan Watt's guidebook at Redpoint Climber's Supply in Terrebonne.

Lots of opportunities for aid shenanigans on dubious rock at Smith. Smith aid technicians are a rare breed.

Monkey Face, do the west face variation. It is good fun.

For the welded tuff free routes: Moscow and Super Slab are classics, as well as Moonshine Dihedral, White Satin, first pitch of Peking, Spiderman Zebra to Zion, Lion's Jaw 1st pitch, Trezlar, Kunza Corner,Pack Animal, Karate Crack, Delerium Tremens...etc.etc.etc.

Basalt classics are too many to list. Head on down to the Lower Gorge, Student Wall/Textbooks, and Shakespeare Cliffs.
JoeR
From Eugene, OR
Joined Aug 22, 2011
26 points
Jul 29, 2012
Me and Spearhead
Unless you've got some other reason to be up in Bend area why not head south and stay on the amazing granite in CA?
Not trying to be an ass, it's just that Smith is not so much the trad destination. (The "aid" climbing on the monkey is bolt ladders, or as Joe said, shenanigans on dubious rock)
Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
143 points
Jul 29, 2012
Thanks man, yeah I need to pick up a guidebook, the Watts one is the Falcon guide right? NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Jul 29, 2012
Brent Apgar wrote:
Unless you've got some other reason to be up in Bend area why not head south and stay on the amazing granite in CA? Not trying to be an ass, it's just that Smith is not so much the trad destination. (The "aid" climbing on the monkey is bolt ladders)


Camping with the parents. And the week after I'll be up in Tahoe and Yosemite Area so I'll get my granite fix :P
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Aug 6, 2012
Any OW in that area or close by? NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 1.  
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!