Climbing Abundancy and Community North East Massachusetts

Hello Mountain Projectors,

I have a potential opportunity to move from Colorado (Denver) to Lexington, MA in Northernish Massachusetts. What do people around here think about the climbing and climbing community etc. I seek mostly trad and multipitch routes out here and saw a lot of stuff in Maine, but less stuff close to the area. Single pitch cragging on great lines both sport and trad is also great.

Would you guys claim that climbing is good around the area?

Some of the stuff in Maine looked pretty cool for sure...actually spectacular.

Also, any thoughts on other activities (mountain biking, kayaking, etc) welcome. What do you think of the area?

Cheers,
Dave Carey

I'm curious what you saw in Maine that intrigued you? There is some greta climbing there to be sure but its not usually the first thing that comes to mind. I would suggest that NH - especially North Conway but lots of other spots too - and the Gunks are what most people would think of.

Lincoln Labs?

Dave lots of great bouldering if you are into it: newenglandbouldering.com

As for roped climbing, NH is where it's at or Western Mass (though you will need to get some local beta as some of the better areas aren't publicized on MP).

Also, lots of good gym options near Lexington. Central Rock in Watertown and Brooklyn Boulders in Somerville are both amazing gyms and the old Boston Rock Gym in Woburn still holds it's own for training value...

I wouldn't move for the climbing.

If there's something else attracting you to the area, climbing is decent nearby and very good if you go a little farther.

Crow Hill 45min
West MA crags Farley, Rose 1.5h
Rumney 2h (sport)
For multi pitch about 3h to Cathedral Ledge or the Gunks

Lots of good gyms, you'll need one for the long winters.

Eric Engberg wrote:I'm curious what you saw in Maine that intrigued you? There is some greta climbing there to be sure but its not usually the first thing that comes to mind. I would suggest that NH - especially North Conway but lots of other spots too - and the Gunks are what most people would think of. Lincoln Labs?

Right... NH has way more climbing than ME..Crow Hill is going to be your closest real lead climbing.. Cape Ann has tons of bouldering and short routes on nice rock.

I hope its a good $$ job..Lexington area is pretty expensive

As far as other activities..think ocean

Speaking as a longtime resident and climber in both the Boston and Denver areas, you will 100% be taking a significant step down in quantity and quality of climbing moving from CO.

However, there is totally worthy stuff to get after.

Farley Ledge in Western MA is one of the true gems and best-kept secrets of climbing in New England, and is one of the better crags anywhere IMO. You won't find a guidebook anywhere (it has a routeless entry here on MP for parking/ approach beta etc.), but can rely on locals for beta. Please be considerate of the many access issues surrounding Farley, but if you do it contains some of the best gneiss single-pitch trad and sport climbing, as well as bouldering, in the Northeast (over 700 routes I think?). It is about an hour and a half west of Lexington. There are a few smaller but still very enjoyable crags nearby (Sanctuary, Sunbowl, Mormon Hollow) with a bunch of good trad.

Uberclassic multipitch granite trad as well as scattered but very good sport and trad cragging exists in the North Conway area and all over the White Mountains in NH (2 hours north), while Pawtuckaway state park in NH (1 hour north) has world-class bouldering on granite. Rumney, NH (2 hours north) is a premier singlepitch (and some 2-3 pitch) schist sport climbing and bouldering destination east of the Mississippi and can keep you occupied for years.

The Gunks are also about 4 hours away. Nuff said.

Closer to home, Cape Ann on the North Shore of Boston is being developed at a blistering pace and is chock full of quality bouldering. There are additionally multiple (very) small but (mostly) enjoyable crags for TR, trad, and sport around the Boston Metro area (College Rock, Quincy Quarries, Hammond Pond). You'll be climbing in a largely urban setting, which can mean noise, graffiti, and unwanted attention but will also enjoy incredible access, short approaches, and a good variety of stone.

The climbing community is thriving and growing at an amazing clip in Boston. For the most part it is very strong and laid back, and in my opinion a hell of a lot less douchey and stuck-up than that in Colorado. You won't find pretentiousness, but you'll find a lot of beginners (same goes for CO though). Bouldering is HUGE, and there are very few climbing bums, but there are a good amount of trad weekend-warriors and strong sport climbers and more than enough people to convince to take longer trips to the Red or other destinations. Sign up for a membership at Central Rock in Watertown (your closest) or Metro Rock in Everett to meet people with similar interests. Rock Spot in Hyde Park is an awesome (!) bouldering-heavy gym with a great crew also, and they are opening a bouldering-only (!) gym in South Boston soon.

Cheers mate! Bottom line, don't move FOR the climbing but don't let climbing dissuade you from a move. Boston is a great city, and there's plenty to do if you don't mind driving around a bit.

Feel free to PM me if you have more questions.

Ben

Also, Mountain biking is good, just don't expect tons of downhill. Kayaking is also good (though mostly coastal in nature unless you go to NH and Maine). Plenty of hiking (though a far cry from pretty much anything in Colorado).

No one has mentioned cannon;) we do have a few real cliffs...

Cannon, Catherdal, Whitehorse, Rumney all within 4 hours from Lexington. Gunks in 5 and high peaks region of Dak's in 6. North Conway puts on a good ice festival each year, back country skiing in the Presidential's is solid and Mt Washington is great mountain with classy lines. Harpoon and Sam Adams right in the city too.