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Horseshoe Canyon
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Climbers Beware 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Eric Kohl
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jun 29, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Passing the scary block on Climbers Beware.
Auburn Quarry Open Daily 'til Sundown! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up the large bulge in the middle of Horseshoe Canyon. This route is simple, with the exception of one really balancy move that heads across the bulge.

If this route really was meant to be climbed more, there would be a few more bolts on it, and also the rock would be cleaned in a very grand fashion.

This route is really really runout, and it is my opinion that a bad fall in the crux will probably cause the rock joined to the second bolt to come loose, cause you and it to come plummeting to the ground from 30 feet up. As a result, this route gets a VERY serious rating.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared withUncomfortably Dumb (5.10c). a couple of medium -small cams makes leading this route a little bitmore comfortable.



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By Rough
Aug 18, 2012

More FA info coming soon. I am also asking if the FAist would mind if this route was rebolted / clean to bring it to a condition that is a little more in line with the area.

By John M Ross
From: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Aug 23, 2012

i spent a couple hours today cleaning the crux on this route and the crux on the 5.8 next to it, should be a little bit more clean!

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Sep 21, 2012

Make that second bolt bomber and leave the route spicy.

If permission to retro is given. Go minimalistic on the bolting and only eliminate any ground fall potential, but leave the runnouts.

Just my kneejerk opinion. I do agree, the last thing that place needs is someone getting seriously hurt when access is already on the fringes.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 21, 2012

I did this route recently and I agree with Salamanizer. This is a fun route, and the only thing that needs to change is for that one bolt (second?) to be moved down and left a foot into solid rock. Or something like that.

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Oct 19, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I've done this route a few times over the years, sometimes placing small gear in the flake between bolts one and two sometimes not. It always felt pretty comfortable to me as the climbing in that section is pretty easy, although the route is a little more heads-up protection-wise than other routes in the canyon. The climbing is pretty easy after the roof, so even though there are only two bolts in that 30+' stretch this climb always felt safe to me. I appreciate other climbers willingness to invest some time and money in retrobolting it, but seems nice to have at least a few more sporty routes at every sport crag. Additionally, I always traversed 4' left at the roof and climbed up the break. From the photo it looks like the poster went right a few feet at the same spot. Will have to try it that way also, still felt .10c going the other way as well.

By mike carville
Feb 16, 2013

This was one of the first routes we did at the Quarry. Although the climbing isn't very hard in the runout section both Josh and I kept thinking that if someone got hurt there (loose rock, bad fall) it could jeopardize access to the whole area. Something to think about at least.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Feb 18, 2013

Then add a bolt, it's your route. There's a place for bold and spicy and Auburn ain't it.

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Apr 19, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

A very large block has fallen off this route at the left side of the roof and the block/face above the roof now has a very large 8' crack in it that did not exist as of 9 months ago. The whole roof section would appear to be very unstable. Still a fun route, but be cautious and gentle with this route.

By tresa black
Oct 17, 2013

Hmmm...when i led this route i was really worried about knocking big stuff down on my belayer. I think that what Mike said is relevant and should be addressed. If there is a serious injury (or worse) here we may lose our privileges.