This route climbs like a typical modern comp. route in that it starts off easy and gets harder the farther up you get. Start on the two little bulges and reach (or jump) for the 2/3 finger pocket on the left to start the route, staying off the detached block to your right. Never go farther left than the pocket (as in this is a face climb and don't use the flake that gets farther and farther away from the finish as you get higher up) and don't ever get closer to the dihedral than about 4 feet (pebble level with last move hands is therefore "off"). Sure it's a bit of a squeeze job but it makes the route indefinitely more interesting. Crux is the last few moves for a great finish ending in either an all out dyno from interestingly smeared feet or a long reach depending on your height. Definitely worth the extra little bushwhack if you're in the area.
Continue along the top of the Old Sandstone area past the last route in the latest edition of the guidebook (Shin Bone). The face is flat for a while and then you'll hit a dihedral. Rap down there and you'll be at the base of Climber's Arrogance.
Sling the two trees for a perfectly centered anchor. #1 rock or a #4 BD wire for the first placement about 15 feet up might stay put. Astros would fit nicely in the horizontal crack the end move comes off of and would be extremely welcome pro for the hairy last reach.
|Comments on Climber's Arrogance
|By Jack C.|
From: Portage, WI
Aug 15, 2013
Last moves took a while to work out compared to second try on Deceptive (5.10 c/d) and the onsight of Baker Street (5.10d) hence the slightly harder grade. I'd love to get some input though.