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Climber Gets injured on Mr. Meanor 5-8+ Trad mixed route JailHouse Mt. Lemmon
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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Dec 28, 2012
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

breeder... good point, cause it's LOCKED OFF..

I see way to many folks just sitting there, both hands out in front of the ATC....


Maybe its just me but I always speak up when I see bad belaying at the crags.

When I learned how to hold falls .... hip belay 101, they made you hold a big one. Most folks dropped the PIG to the dirt the first time they tried to catch it.

Becoming a good belayer was like the first step to becoming a climber.

Today, I think the only belay skills taught are the weak little "tests" given at the gym or worse the 30second instructions on "how this works" given to some n00b right before you trust your life to them.


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By TWK
Dec 28, 2012

Too many people I interested in an activity meant for the few, getting in over their heads without learning the ropes.

Interesting idiom, "learning the ropes".


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By saxfiend
Administrator
From Decatur, GA
Dec 28, 2012
Relaxing at the P1 belay of Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald.

Jeez . . . it seems like the longer a thread gets, the lower the reading comprehension gets.

Those of you saying the belayer dropped the climber, try re-reading the first post. The climber was on lead; he was 30' up the route; and he was runout 15' from his last pro. In other words, he was in groundfall territory, he wasn't dropped.

As for how the belayer got rope burns, she explained that in a later post. I bet if you look hard you can find it.

JL


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By Brigette
From Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2013
At the anchors.

saxfiend wrote:
Jeez . . . it seems like the longer a thread gets, the lower the reading comprehension gets. Those of you saying the belayer dropped the climber, try re-reading the first post. The climber was on lead; he was 30' up the route; and he was runout 15' from his last pro. In other words, he was in groundfall territory, he wasn't dropped. As for how the belayer got rope burns, she explained that in a later post. I bet if you look hard you can find it. JL



+1

And, the leader was in the act of clipping as he fell, so he had more than 30 feet of rope out at that moment.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jan 2, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Sax and Brigette......

15 feet out, 30 feet up... and clipping.

Boy oh Boy, You could have stopped the climber from DECKING...

Its called ... take in a handfull, and drop .... you need to see this comming and be ready to reel in rope, jump down or run back fast.

Do it right and no rope burns...

Happy new years.


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By Jeremy Hand
Jan 2, 2013
slopey

this is 4 years old, go finf something else to bitc about... like religion or politics


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By Eric D
From Gnarnia
Jan 2, 2013
Born again on the last move of the Red Dihedral, high Sierras.

Guy Keesee wrote:
15 feet out, 30 feet up... and clipping. Boy oh Boy, You could have stopped the climber from DECKING... Its called ... take in a handfull, and drop .... you need to see this comming and be ready to reel in rope, jump down or run back fast.


Theoretically, maybe. In practice, no.


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By TheBirdman
From Eldorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 2, 2013

This thread is like when your 65 year old neighbor screams at the TV, "C'mon Peyton, I could've made that throw." Easy to say sitting in the comfort of your living room...

Climber is responsible for their own safety. For everyone saying the belayer could have ran backwards, taken in slack, used a Gri-Gri, said a prayer, spun on her head, etc., as a climber, I never rely on my belayer to make some unbelievable save in the heat of the moment and it's foolish if you expect them to also. It's a bonus if that happens, but not the norm. Your belayer is the back-up, you as the climber are the primary safety device.

Seeing as how the facts were, 30 feet off the deck and fifteen feet PLUS of rope out, the only thing the belayer could have done was something pretty incredible. Not impossible, but it would have taken a truly expert belayer to have kept that climber off the deck.

I remember a story in Clear Creek where a guy sat back in his harness at the anchor when he was off belay. As he was rocketing toward the ground some SUPERHERO on an adjacent climb grabbed the rope and managed to stop the climbers fall just by holding the rope, giving himself rope burns in the meantime. It wouldn't be fair for the falling climber to expect this, it's not the norm. Just like it's not fair for a climber who is objectively in groundfall territory to expect some miracle catch by their belayer. All that being said, it sounds like she did a decent job keeping this guy alive.

It's dangerous out there. Don't rely on anyone else to protect you if you put yourself in an unprotectable situation.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Jan 2, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

this is 4 years old, go finf something else to bitc about... like religion or politics

Mr. Hand..... Made you stop in.... for a bit of entertainment.

... some topics never go out of style, I was laughing my rear end off when I found this... it was bumped by somebody.
And cause not much goes on on MP, of any substance anyway, this went to the top of the heap.

So why don't you chill out, sorry for ruffling your feathers, or harshing your mellon.

Happy climbing


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By TWK
Jan 3, 2013

Eric D wrote:
Theoretically, maybe. In practice, no.


As the great Yogi Berra said: "In theory, practice is no harder than theory, but in practice, it is."


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By AnonymooseCoward
Apr 28, 2013
describe the photo <br />

Hey does anyone know where I can get a good margarita pizza?


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