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Climber fall at Trapps - CCK Direct 8/9/14

Original Post
Derick L · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 235

Climber fell while leading the second pitch of CCK Direct. Word is he started off from the GT ledge, had one cam in, climbed on and got pumped. He downclimbed slightly and took a deliberate fall on said cam, which popped out. Fall was about 15-20 ft onto the GT ledge, landing on his hip. Preserve ranger believes back injury is a high possibility. Climber did not lose consciousness; was not able to move legs but could feel them being touched. Full rescue/litter evacuation was carried out, thanks to a large group of climbers who came to help. Climber was eventually airlifted to Westchester. Best wishes for a speedy recovery for the guy and stay safe, everyone.


ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

"Took an intentional fall on the cam"

Wow intentionally falling on a single piece of gear, sounds like a rough decision to have to make. Hope all goes well and mobility is regained!

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

Any update on this? Hows he doing?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

I have always felt that the start of that pitch is pretty serious. The horizontal that takes the only gear in 20 feet is amazingly/frighteningly smooth and slick. I am not surprised a cam could slip out of there.

Best wishes to the leader for a quick and complete recovery!

Derick L · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 235
cms829 wrote:Any update on this? Hows he doing?
I don't personally know the climber or his partner, and have not heard anything on his condition yet. My friend and I were rappelling down after finishing Updraft when we heard it so I called it in to the preserve. It was nice to see the whole climbing community come together to help with the evacuation that day. Maybe someone else has heard something and can give an update on how he's doing.
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526
Gunkiemike wrote:I have always felt that the start of that pitch is pretty serious. The horizontal that takes the only gear in 20 feet is amazingly/frighteningly smooth and slick. I am not surprised a cam could slip out of there.
Full agreement on the seriousness of that section, even if the gear stays in. But I'm dismayed to hear of that particular cam blowing, as, unlike Mike and perhaps incorrectly, I've always thought it was about as good a placement as you could expect to get anywhere.

Here's hoping for a full recovery for the leader.
SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

I'm sorry to hear of this accident and I hope the climber fully recovers.

I wouldn't be so quick to jump to a conclusion about where the cam pulled from. Sounds like we don't really know whether the climber intended to be on CCK Direct or was actually in the right spot for CCK Direct. It is confusing there on the GT Ledge, with CCK Direct at the left end (where the horizontal is), the regular CCK further to the right than many people realize, and some poorly protected stuff in between, in no man's land.

Kevin Neville · · Oconomowoc, WI · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 15

Exact same thing happened to me a few years ago, except my cam held. (As SethG says, we don't know exactly where this happened, but having experienced this I find it very plausible...). The horizontal would be bomber for a straight fall. But the route goes significantly to the right from there. I wasn't sure of the next stance+gear, tried to downclimb back to the cam, but was still ~5 feet to the right of it when my arms pumped out. Sharp pendulum, pulling on the cam from the right, then the left, then the right, can walk it forward. I consider myself lucky. I think it's possible to put two cams in and equalize them, so that each one only experiences force from a small range of angles.

Best hopes to the climber for a full recovery.

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90
rgold wrote: Full agreement on the seriousness of that section, even if the gear stays in. But I'm dismayed to hear of that particular cam blowing, as, unlike Mike and perhaps incorrectly, I've always thought it was about as good a placement as you could expect to get anywhere. Here's hoping for a full recovery for the leader.
Does anyone have a good pic with this horizontal in it? I was on CCK the day after this accident for the first time and had a blast. We had a tiny bit of trouble getting off the GT, but after a minute seemed to find an easy way up. You couldn't protect it well, but the moves were 5.7....just reachy. I assume this is where the problem was? The only gear was a broken up horizontal Id say 10 ft off the deck.
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Here's a shot from Jeff Deutsch, jeffdeutsch.com . From a position between the two ropes, the climber moves right and up where the right-hand rope is, with protection from the long runner on the left. The placement itself is barely in the picture. Even if the gear stays in there is an ankle-breaker ledge waiting at the end of the pendulum fall. The regular route goes up to the right of this picture.

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

Thanks Rich (it is rich, right?)

So Im a little confused. The way we went up was about 4-5 feet right of this pic. See the triangular roof that the right rope is going over? Well my partner tried going up right of the roof in the bowl shaped notch. That didnt go, so i read the description again and we interpreted it to mean go a couple more feet to the right of that notch...where you gain a stance on a decent sized ledge. Then go up from there and then traverse left up to the left trending flake into the updraft corner.

Doing it this way, it felt 5.7 ish. However, the last piece of pro was under that notch in the overhang. I would have to climb it again to be sure but I think we could have gotten something else in a little higher by going right of the roof.

Or were we off route? Im speaking of the normal cck route

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
cms829 wrote:Thanks Rich (it is rich, right?) So Im a little confused. The way we went up was about 4-5 feet right of this pic. See the triangular roof that the right rope is going over? Well my partner tried going up right of the roof in the bowl shaped notch. That didnt go, so i read the description again and we interpreted it to mean go a couple more feet to the right of that notch...where you gain a stance on a decent sized ledge. Then go up from there and then traverse left up to the left trending flake into the updraft corner. Doing it this way, it felt 5.7 ish. However, the last piece of pro was under that notch in the overhang. I would have to climb it again to be sure but I think we could have gotten something else in a little higher by going right of the roof. Or were we off route? Im speaking of the normal cck route
The original post says that the accident occurred on CCK Direct...
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Yes, it's Rich.

It sounds like you did it right. But the accident was reported to have occurred on the direct route, which is the in the first picture I posted.

Here's a picture of the regular route from Summit Post summitpost.org/cascading-cr… .

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

Thanks guys. Sorry if I made it seem otherwise, but I was aware that the accident was on cck direct. Should of specified that. But according to that second pic we did do it exactly right. What a wild 3rd pitch. Will have to get back on it on lead this fall.

Thanks for the help

On topic- has anyone heard how this climbers doing?

Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 60
rgold wrote:Here's a shot from Jeff Deutsch, jeffdeutsch.com . From a position between the two ropes, the climber moves right and up where the right-hand rope is, with protection from the long runner on the left. The placement itself is barely in the picture. Even if the gear stays in there is an ankle-breaker ledge waiting at the end of the pendulum fall. The regular route goes up to the right of this picture.
When I've done this recently I've managed to place two cams in the horizontal, a .75 followed by a 1 a couple feet further to the right on a 2 foot runner (or maybe the opposite order), which requires a full extension placement from a stance at my height 5'11 but can also be done by traversing a little in a somewhat awkward position. Still a bad fall, but maybe a little better?

Great effort by everyone here. Here is to a speedy recovery!
cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

Get better soon man!

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

Best wishes for a full recovery Florian!

M Santisi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,874

My thoughts are with you, hope to see you back in the gunks soon

Derick L · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 235

Best wishes for your recovery, Florian!

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

Good luck in your recovery, Florian! Thanks for letting us know your situation. We've all been thinking of you.

Michael _ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,195

Thanks for the update, Florian. Good luck with the rehab and physical therapy!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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