Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rincon - L of Center Route
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Bondage T,S 
Aerial Book T,TR 
Aerohead T,S 
Aeronaut T,S 
Aerospace T,S 
Arete Bandit T 
Bachar Yer Aryan T 
Bat's Ass Dihedral T,TR 
Brevitata T 
Climb Of The Century T 
Cuban Bluegrass T 
Emerald City T 
Evictor, The T 
Faulty Logic T,S 
Final Eviction (aka Freeline), The T 
Fraid Line T 
Kaisho T,TR 
Kangaroo Tail T 
Leisure Time Arete TR 
Must'a Been High T 
N.I.C T 
Over and Out T 
Over the Hill T 
Scenic Route T 
Surf's Up T,S 
Trident T 
Ventura Highway T 
Wendego T 
Windy T 

Climb Of The Century 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Sharp/Newman/Butterfield, 1980
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 7,661
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Oct 27, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sonnie T. walks up the Climb of the Century..

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Judging by the amount of chalk on the holds, this must be a popular route. The line is stellar. One of the best pitches of the grade, but probably not led as often as one might think...Modern gear has made an amazing impact! Before micro cams this was a super serious lead. Now its still a bit heads up, but the competent climber with Aliens or TCU's should be OK.

The start of the route is a play on angular irregularities. Two ways to start: Power straight up the pillar (reachy), or stem the left side and tiptoe out right(balancy). Small cams protect between the two fixed pieces (both dubious). Crank past that pin and now climb the cool dihedral with stems and liebacks and better pro. Lower off 78'.

Protection 

0.3"-1.5" cams (2x.4" "sews it up"), nuts, 1 fixed peg + 1 fixed Roller (YIKES!). Lower off anchor.


Photos of Climb Of The Century Slideshow Add Photo
Patrick making it look like a walk in the park.  Seriously... on-sight, warm-up, cold and in the rain.  The guy stomped it.
Patrick making it look like a walk in the park. S...
The best climbing is above the crux,  there are good edges on the right.
The best climbing is above the crux, there are go...
Kurt on his flash of Climb of the Century.
Kurt on his flash of Climb of the Century.
Photo by Chrissy Sloan in 2005.
Photo by Chrissy Sloan in 2005.
The crux is getting to a large rail up and right.  The fixed roller is to left,  but a great blue Alien can be placed to the right.
The crux is getting to a large rail up and right. ...
Tim Fleming on Climb of the Century.
Tim Fleming on Climb of the Century.
Kurt placing crux gear, small TCU.
Kurt placing crux gear, small TCU.
Tony Bubb in the steep corner of 'Climb of the Century (5.11)' in July of 2003. Photo by Ron Roach.
Tony Bubb in the steep corner of 'Climb of the Cen...
Matt, high on the route.
Matt, high on the route.

Comments on Climb Of The Century Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 11, 2012
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 29, 2001
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Like some other climbs at Rincon (including the namesake), this climb is a little soft at it's grade, feeling more like 11a to me. The climb plays best to people who stem and smear well. Ballnuts and micro-cams are both useful.
By Stan Lanzano
Apr 18, 2002

FYI: A while back a friend and I hammered in the pin on this climb. We were able to drive it in at least an inch. While still not bomber, it no longer belongs in the Eldorado fixed gear _hall of shame_ like, say, the tattered ball nut directly below it. Great line.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 8, 2002
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

you lanzanos are always good stewards at your local crags. i finally got to do this route yesterday and it was even better than i had hoped. a classic for sure. and the pin looks pretty bomber now. thanks stan.
By Joe Collins
Apr 21, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Two words: Black Alien!

eldo top-10, maybe top-5

About the same difficulty as Center Route. I can see this being thought of as harder-11 back in the pre-small cam days.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 27, 2003
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

That's funny Joe...I led this recently, and placed no black aliens, but got 2 excellent blue alien placements right at the crux (one just below, and one just above the pedestal). With these pieces, I felt like the route was pretty sewn-up, definitely not deserving of an "s" rating.

Maybe black aliens work in those slots as well?
By Joe Collins
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The black alien backs up the old fixed slider nut at the start.
By Kirk Woerner
Feb 27, 2004

Somebody tell me why this seems easier than Center Routeto me? This is now officially on my lead list (TRed it clean first time, which is way more than I can say for Center Route)
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 27, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

kirk- in my opinion, this really isn't any harder than center route, it is just that the moves are much more serious on lead. you can sew up the crux of the center route while climb of the century has a decently uncertain fall at the beginning crux. all that aside, they are both classic!
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 27, 2004
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I don't think the moves are "much more serious on lead." I led this route for the second time last week, and whipped twice off the crux onto a bomber cam. Short, safe fall. In fact, I'd feel comfortable falling anywhere on this route. There are some tricky placements but the gear is good!

Kirk--it may feel easier because the crux, while hard, is kind of a boulder problem (and balancy rather than powerful), plus there are decent rests most of the rest of the way.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 27, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

charles- glad to hear that the gear held so well. when i lead this route i didn't fall on the gear so i never had a good sense if it was as good as it looked. it just didn't seem as straight forward and easy to guage as the gear on center route. that is why i said is was more uncertain. either way, a definate must lead route.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 27, 2004
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Adam, it's true that the gear is really never straightforward, anywhere on the pitch, so maybe that's what you were saying and I misinterpreted. The first time I led this I was able to back up the slider nut with a good stopper, and then it took some fiddling, and climbing up and down (it is a bit reachy), but there is a fantastically bomber blue alien placement (I'm sure that cams of other brands would work as well) that can be had before one initiates the crux sequence. I didn't fall on it that time but I had complete confidence in it. I'd encourage people thinking about leading this route (onsight or otherwise) to go for it; you should be able to find these placements, but if you get spooked you're only about 10-15 feet up and it's not hard to downclimb/bail.

And I agree that this pitch is truly must-do, probably one of the 5 best individual pitches I've done in Eldo.
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I've only been to Eldo once, but this route is what I remember most.
Good lead.
By Kirill Kireyev
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 18, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Somehow I managed to get suckered left around the corner at the beginning. Don't do that.

Bring a black and blue Aliens or two blacks for the crux. Blue TCU/Red BD are too big.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Mar 23, 2009

As of 3/21/09 the slider nut at the start was gone, although a grey TCU works in its spot.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 7, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Be careful placing a blue Alien in the slot before the crux move to the jug. We fixed one that took 15-20 minutes to extract. A black Alien or blue ballnut might work better there.

We also managed to temporarily stick a blue Alien before the pin. The trigger bar became wedged in the crack. I guess it wasn't a good day for blue Aliens for us.

Great climb with good gear and holds when you need them, but not at the same time.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 26, 2011

I got the RP on this yesterday, and if anyone cares the following gear sewed it up through the crux nicely.

Grey/purple Mastercam hybrid.
Medium nut in the finger slot where the pillar gets steep.
Green C3 in the slot below the jug/rail.
Green C3 just below the pin above the jug/rail.
Pin.
I found a blue/yellow Mastercam hybrid useful for the next placement.

That crack is pretty funky up high. I recommend bringing hybrids, or just placing a lot.
By Tommey-James
From: Boulder,Colorado
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Really fun climb with really small pro for the first 20/25 ft. I found the crux to be a reasonably well-protected. It is a little scary busting the crux moves near the deck on thin pro, though. Up higher, the climbing eases off, but the gear is a little spaced, not too big of a deal if you made it through the bottom, though. I would recommend taking doubled of 0 and 00 size cams (may be even triple of 0 but not necessary). I thought it was more sustained than the crux pitch of C'est la Vie just for reference.
By Bob Rotert
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

If you have confidence in the gear or are able to get good gear in reasonably quickly, that helps with the difficulties of this route.

I can see the opinion of a rating rise or fall for the individual ascent depending on how well the leader gets the gear in and how much confidence they have in the gear placed. When led, the climb has a bit of gear, head, and pump factor that can add to the pure technical difficulty. The small cams you can get on this seem pretty good. Some people have total confidence in micro cams and are totally comfortable whipping on them. However, I always prefer not to put them to the test myself and this route has a really bad landing area.

Critical placements: A blue Alien or purple TCU in the upper slot before the jug. Blue TCU placed in the slot before the pin, from the jug, are what I use to protect the opening moves.