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The Bookend
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blood Feud T 
Bombay Chimney T 
Climb of the Ancient Mariner T,S 
Corinthian Column T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Grovelly Chimney T 
Handbook T 
Hot Licks T 
Knight's Gambit T 
Knight's Gambit Variation T 
Labor of Lust T 
Orange Julius T 
Pineapple Juice T,S 
Sicilian Defense T 
Sorcerer T 
Sorcerer -- Mariner Traverse T 
Sorcerer's Apprentice T 
Southern Cross T 
Strawberry Short Cake T 
Summer Festival T 
Sun King T 
Tarantula T 
Treebeard T 
Truth T 
Unknown Chasm T 
Wide Gauge T 
Winds of Fortune T 
Unsorted Routes:

Climb of the Ancient Mariner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter
Page Views: 8,699
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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Climbers on "Climb of the Ancient Mariner&quo...

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Quintessential Lumpy slab climbing. Hike up to the Bookend (not to be confused with any other cliff involving the name Book), and starting from the southeast corner of that rock, scramble up slabs and grooves up past the obvious large triangular roof of Orange Julius, to a higher alcove. Keep a lookout on the approach for the route's landmark, a clean, narrow slab with a green streak on the right side of the [Bookend]-- the alcove lies below it, though once you are in it you can't see the slab.

P1 - Climb up the left side of the alcove, turn the corner to the left and climb a right facing corner with a hand crack in the back. Turn the roof capping the corner (bolt) and climb up the slab past two more bolts (crux) to a two bolt anchor (110 feet).

P2 - Head straight up the phenomenal slab past six bolts (5.9) to lower angle ground where one can belay from medium friends (25 feet to the first bolt) (160 feet).

P3 - Finish the climb up easy cracks and grooves to the left, and descend from the top of the [Bookend] to the northeast (160 feet).


The meat of the route is bolted, and only a set of Friends is necessary for the rest.

Photos of Climb of the Ancient Mariner Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown climber on Ancient Mariner.
Unknown climber on Ancient Mariner.
Enjoying the runout slab on P2.
Enjoying the runout slab on P2.
Jason Rite examines the thin crux while Lisa Foster turns the roof in the background.
Jason Rite examines the thin crux while Lisa Foste...
Approaching the hanging belay near the crux on the first pitch.
Approaching the hanging belay near the crux on the...
This photo illustrates the runout between the P1 anchor and the first bolt on P2.  There is another substantial runout to reach the last bolt on P2, though the difficulty eases at that point.  Don't fall on this pitch!  Photo by John Francis.
This photo illustrates the runout between the P1 a...
Clipping the first bolt from the anchors, starting the 2nd pitch.  A very windy April day made the runouts quite memorable.  Photo taken by crackthug, Devan Johnson.
Clipping the first bolt from the anchors, starting...
Mike leading away from the hanging belay into runout 5.9 face climbing
Mike leading away from the hanging belay into runo...
Into the extra runout upper bits, seemed easier to start L from the belay on P2.
Into the extra runout upper bits, seemed easier to...
High on the second pitch.
High on the second pitch.
Unknown party on 6.30.06. Pic taken from Melvin's Wheel
Unknown party on 6.30.06. Pic taken from Melvin's ...
Christa high on the second pitch.
Christa high on the second pitch.
Running it out up the second pitch. <br />Photo: Mark Roth.
Running it out up the second pitch. Photo: Mark Ro...
Just above the crux of P1.
Just above the crux of P1.
Party on the Mariner, as viewed from the Original Fantasy Ridge.
Party on the Mariner, as viewed from the Original ...

Comments on Climb of the Ancient Mariner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2013
By Scott Hudson
Jul 19, 2001

While it is true that the meat of the climb is bolted, it is important to note that this is not a sport climb. Gear is needed on the first half of the first pitch and for the second belay. I know of at least one party that thought they didn't need gear after the first pitch and the leader was left with nothing but a knot to use for belay anchors at the top of the second pitch.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2001
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

As someone who'd climbed a heck of a lot more sandstone than granite, in 1995 when I did this route, I found the roof to be 5.8 and the bolted face to be sustained 5.10. I was simply not prepared to smear and crimp like that [on] a 5.10a!
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Dec 31, 2001

Without a doubt my favorite Lumpy climb! Fantastic setting, slabbing up the second pitch. The move over the roof is only hard mentally, leaving the security of the crack for invisible holds above; but they're there. As a few others have said, this is definitely NOT !!! a "sport route". The first clip after the hanging belay at the end of the first pitch is a good 25-30' out. After that, the next 5 clips are reasonable and right where you really need them, but there is a 35-40' runout on more moderate climbing to get to the 6th bolt (an old 1/4" tin-foil hanger) and then another 20' to your first gear placement! Overall, I think the rating may be a little high but I love slabs and the 10a probably comes in the "pucker factor" for someone expecting a mellow sport route.
By alpinglow
From: city, state
Jul 20, 2002

This route went before the bolts and Rossiter retroed it? I personally think the crux is just after the first belay. It is stellar, though.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 5, 2003

Brent, I understand that Doug Snively pulled this roof with a client in the 70's. After heading up the unprotected face he moved right into Sorcerer. Nothing like a little adventure climbing with a client in tow! As we all know Doug Snively rocks!
By Stephan Greenway
Feb 25, 2003

When this route first went up, local legend and all around hard guy, Doug Snively said he climbed this route years before it had been bolted. (he assured everyone that he was pleased to see the bolts in now). It seems he was with a client and went up the first pitch belaying below the roof. He then pulled the roof, cruised up the face before heading right and belaying..... All of us who know Doug know he isn't spraying.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Apr 27, 2003

Climbed this beauty on 4/26/03 and I'm happy to report someone has replaced the final bolt, and done a nice job of it. It's still a long way between clips but they're all good.
By David Conlin
May 6, 2003

While the runout leaving the hanging belay to the first bolt of the second pitch is long and somewhat unnerving, it is definitely NOT the crux (maybe 5.8+). The crux is right after the first bolt on the face (not the roof bolt) and seems reasonably rated at 10a to me. The roof itself is quite easy (although I'd go with 5.9-, rather than 5.8), but after turning the roof, that next bolt is a good 15-20 feet away, which I found a little "unnerving." One of my favorite climbs at Lumpy--DO IT!
By S. Kimball
Jun 24, 2003

This 1991 classic has gotten a bit thinner over the years... tiny flakes and mini huecos have broken off into little stubby edges and more dished out friction/foot holds. 10b ish above 1st pitch, 2nd bolt. Pitch 2: definitely "old school 5.9 and R to 1st clip...Loving it ,SK.
By Nate Christiansen
Jun 27, 2003

This thing is spicy! The whole thing is on dime edges with small positive crimps. Certainly not for the aspiring 5.10 leader (not unless you do not fear the whip, 20-30 footers, that is).
By Sean Coffey
Jul 13, 2003

My bro and I climbed this on 07/11/03. Fantastic climb! I thought the moves directly after the roof to be the crux, solid 5.10. The runouts were exciting, but the moves are not bad. I wouldn't do this unless you are a very solid 5.10 face climber and not bothered by run outs at this level. Lumpy rules!!
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Jul 6, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Sweet. I felt the crux of this route was above the 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch. The moves seemed thinner here than anything on the first pitch.

The whole slab is about 200' long and counting the belay anchor, there are 9 bolts on it. Do the math... definitely not a sport climb. Exciting!
By JP.8d
From: Menlo Park, CA
May 3, 2006

First shot at Mariner the other day. I would agree with most that crux comes after the roof going through two bolts to the anchor. Stellar slab climbing past a line of (bomber) bolts that are spaced farther apart the higher you go. Small pucker factor, huge fun. One a the best on Lumpy IMHO. Cheers...
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jun 1, 2008

The second pitch has no move harder than 5.9, though it's a bit runout getting to the first bolt from the belay. It is sustained 5.9 slab climbing; you have to constantly think throughout the pitch. It does not let up until you are finished. The bolts are placed where they need to be; however, they are thinly spaced. The climber should have a head for runout slab climbing (hint, hint: think South Platte).

I followed the first pitch and led the second, and, I thought the crux was on the first pitch between the top of the roof and the bolted anchor. This, in my opinion, is where the climb gets the 5.10 rating.

Climb of the Ancient Mariner is by far one of the finer 5.10 climbs at Lumpy Ridge. You get everything from hand jams, roof, slab climbing, great position, and an incredible setting. All things considered, this is not a sport climb as there is nothing 'sporty' about it.
By Danny Suter
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2008

This is such a great, great route! The runout from the hanging belay to the first bolt is long. While the climbing is easy at that point, I would have to say that a fall onto the anchors could be ..... serious!!
By jeremy long
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

It's been a while, but I remember the start of the second pitch was a little spicy, but the runout on 5.7 above the last new bolt was long! And the reward, some manky old piece of tin that was probably made in someone's garage. Beautiful route, though.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Jun 27, 2011

A big thank you to RR for creating an amazing 2nd pitch straight up the slab.
By Nick Barczak
Jun 3, 2013

FANTASTIC route! The first pitch is super fun! I'd say the roof move on P1 is about 9-. It reminds me a little bit of 'Flower of High Rank' on Suicide Rock (in SoCal), but it's slightly easier. The slab moves above it are definitely the crux, about 10a.

But for me, what makes this climb brilliant is the second pitch: awesome edging and smearing up a rad (and seemingly improbable) face. Some pretty big spacings between bolts makes for thoughtful climbing. The climbing is never very hard (maybe the occasional 5.9 move), but on lead, you have to keep your head screwed on tight. Leading and following this pitch are likely very different experiences.
By Chris Plesko
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 7, 2013

If you can climb the P1 crux (after the first bolt on the face for me), you can climb everything on P2. The runouts are awesome. Excellent route with a bit of everything, and the slab is definitely the highlight!