This is the first pitch of a multi-pitch route. I did not climb the upper pitches. The first pitch is 10b; the upper pitches are harder (12 A0).
Go to the left side of Vampire Rock and continue up about 100' until you can see bolts on the vegetated, lichen-covered wall and corner system on the right. This is the route.
P1. Climb the face and corners to an overhang. Make airy moves past the overhang and climb the tricky face above. Work right to a short finger crack and continue up to the anchor. (10b)
The rock is a little grungy, but there are lots of good moves on this pitch.
10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Irina Overeem cranking the roof halfway up the pit...
Irina Overeem contemplating the moves on the steep...
|By Kevin Neilson|
Aug 9, 2008
Despite its looks, this is a pretty decent route. Left around the corner from The Bureau, it's hidden and obviously sees little traffic; it could use some cleaning. It was more challenging than I'd imagined. At the first roof, I got crunched underneath on poor feet. Above that, the holds are consistently slopey. Stem as much as possible.
|By Clare Shemeta|
Aug 11, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
At the "finger crack", if you proceed up the bolt line (the finger crack is a bit to the right of the bolt line) I think it's harder than 10b. Anybody else try it on the bolt line? There's a move with a left hand fin that's harder than the finger crack. I thought it was a fun, long (about 80 ft) line - 10 bolts, Rolofson book says 8....
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The climbing is decent, but it is quite dirty, and the bolting seemed all over the map. Many of the bolts weren't visible from below, so you pay attention or you might miss them. It seemed like the easy sections had bolts 3 feet apart, and the weird moves weren't protected as well. If this grade is at your limit, I'm not sure I would recommend it.