Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | John Bissel |
| Submitted By: | Monomaniac on Jun 26, 2008 |
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Kevin entering into the crux of Climb-a-Dime-a-Din...
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Description This line features a mellow line of nice jugs that terminates abruptly at a notorious boulder problem crux just below the lip of the cave. A great shake at the mid-height roof provides a complete recovery, making this line a perfect choice for power junkies.
Scramble up relatively solid choss to a ledge. Several great pockets lead up to a chalky undercling and an awkward stand-up move into a corner. Move up to the roof, then slightly left to clip and shake from an airy stance. Long reaches over the roof lead to a sloping rail and a (left) kneebar of dubious value. Stab up to a pair of small crimps, work the feet up on polished bumps, and gun for the horizontal break. The difficulties end at a nice jug-rest, and a few more moves on prickly stone lead to the anchor.
Location This is on the far left end of the Arsenal, beyond the edge of the trees. This used to be the furthest left route, but now "The Lolonator" breaks left from this line at the mid-height roof.
Protection ~7 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. You may want to skip the first bolt above the roof to limit rope drag (the next bolt can be clipped from the rest).
Kevin in the boulder problem.
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Mid-route.
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| Comments on Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang |
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By Evan Winn
Sep 16, 2009
rating: 5.12b/c PG13
| The bolt under the big roof is scary to look at (rusty, sticks out of the rock), but the next one isn't far away and usual has an extended draw. Climbs more like 12c for me, but I just can't find the kneebar. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2010
| I fell maybe 8 feet on the rusty bolt and it held. Not a huge whip but at least it holds something. |
By Keith H. North
From: Englewood, CO
Jul 25, 2011
| JJNS,
Have you been on Easy Skankin'?
The kneebar on that route is both excellent and it's actually comfortable....
And the route is just F$%^ing awesome to add to it, long, sustained 12b. |
By JasonJNSmith
From: Denver
Jul 27, 2011
| Yeah, Easy Skankin' is amazing! |
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.12b
| Hey Lynn, thanks for your efforts on this climb. I've noticed a lot of routes with the old bolts still in the wall. I, for one, appreciate you taking the time to pull the old ones and clean up the wall a bit. Not an easy task and often a thankless one. Thank you.
As for the route, I thought this thing was pretty sweet! Really fun jug haulin' up a steep wall for about 35 feet to a fun boulder problem crux and some moderate moves from there to the chains. Oh, and no knee-bar necessary for the crux, there's a lot of options that will work up there. Cool route and one I would recommend, especially for those looking for a good .12-. |
By Mr. Nick
Jun 30, 2012
| You may not believe it by seeing the grade on this route, but it is the hardest route in the Arsenal by far and away. Very fun route with a very distinct crux. Great if you get bored half-way up Pump-O-Rama and want a route with an actual crux. |
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.12b
| There are two anchors on this climb, does this route stop at the first or second anchors? |
By Jason Ogasian
Oct 17, 2012
| 7 protection bolts and 2 anchor bolts were replaced on this route in the spring of 2012 with support from the ASCA.
safeclimbing.org/ |
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