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(8) Golden Valley
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Climax 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 18, 2013
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Daisy Hsu after turning the roof

Photo by Travis ...

Description 

This route is described as three separate pitches in Matt's book. However, it can easily be done as two.

Start up the left side of Tofu Tower on big holds. Continue up the slab to a ledge with a bolted anchor. Clip a bolt and continue up on steepening stone to a horizontal below a blank face. Step left here and pull up and around the roof. Layback along a flake to another roof. Crux it out onto the face to the right with a wide selection of marginal holds. Continue up the slab (notice a patch of darker stone - a huge flake came off here 3/13) using the dihedral and smearing. Belay at a narrow grassy ledge below a fixed rope on two glue-in bolts.

There is a bit of a runout to the first bolt of the 2nd pitch. Pull through long reaches to deep horizontals, trending right, and working those feet on tiny features. Topout at a great ledge with a gorgeous view and a bit of loose rock. Rappel twice with 60m rope or three times with 50m.


Location 

On the Euro Wall, first route to the left of Tofu Tower.


Protection 

The glue-in bolts on this route may be solid, or they may be dangerously corroded and not show it. They are made from an inferior steel and have broken before, though nobody was injured. People still climb this route regularly.

1st pitch
Lead: 12 GI bolts
Anchor: 2 GI bolts

2nd pitch
Lead: 5 GI bolts
Anchor: 1 GI bolt & 1 X bolt & 1 chain + rap ring



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By Danger
From: Taipei City
Feb 3, 2014

Some of the lead bolts look a bit mank. Anchors have been rebolted with shiny new 316 steel.