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Clifton Crags

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Big Chick Hill 
Eagle Bluff 
Fletchers Bluff 
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Clifton Crags  


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Location: 44.8074, -68.5966 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 51,933
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Oct 5, 2008
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Description 

Climbers with fingers of steel and precise footwork will be attracted to Clifton. Clifton is nestled in the rolling hills just east of Bangor, Maine, and is home to some of the finest crags in the state. Those who enjoy climbing on balancy holds and tweaky, tip numbing edges will find plenty to do as Clifton is the home to nearly a dozen crags.

Getting There 

The Clifton crags are located about 20 minutes east of Bangor. All the crags (except for eagle bluff) are located off of rt. 9. Eagle bluff is off of 180

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.4 miles from here

81 Total Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',32],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',5],['5.8',10],['5.9',13],['5.10',22],['5.11',15],['5.12',8],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Clifton Crags:
My Time   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 175'   Big Chick Hill : Main Face
Craig's Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   Parks Pond Bluff : Main Face
Overnite Sensation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   Big Chick Hill : Main Face
Riders Of the Storm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Parks Pond Bluff : Mushroom Wall
Witch Wonder   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   Eagle Bluff
Slice of the Gunks   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Eagle Bluff
Walk on the Mild Side   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Eagle Bluff
Happy Face   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Eagle Bluff
Crankcase   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Eagle Bluff
Son of a Birch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Big Chick Hill : Tower Buttress and Face
Bivy Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Eagle Bluff
Wheaties   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Eagle Bluff
The Eagle's Gift   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Eagle Bluff
highlander   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 165'   Eagle Bluff
Entrance Exam   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Eagle Bluff
Blaze of Glory   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Eagle Bluff
Where Eagles Dare   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Eagle Bluff
Chinese Water Torture Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Eagle Bluff
All seriousness aside    5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Eagle Bluff
Eagle Direct   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Eagle Bluff
Browse More Classics in Clifton Crags

Featured Route For Clifton Crags
Starting up the route

Wheaties 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  ME : Clifton Crags : Eagle Bluff
Another classic! Layback an obvious left-facing flake to a face passing several bolts to ledge. Belay here of continue forty feet to a bolt anchor. The original second pitch (Breakfast of Champions, 5.9+) is now easily combined with the lower section by continuing straight up the face past bolts to a new anchor below the room on the Cross-over ledge. The original route had only one bolt on the face above the initial flake....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Comments on Clifton Crags Add Comment
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By matt.maine
From: raymond, maine
Oct 8, 2008
a great place to get away just not during bug season
if you spend any time there get the guide to Clifton by Jon Tierney
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Apr 12, 2009
Anyone know anything about the cliff over by fletchers? Its a mile or so before fletchers off one of the side logging roads. It looks very vertical, and may have potential for some nice lines.
By hasan
From: portland,me
Jul 12, 2010
If you mean Sundog wall. It is vertical to slightly overhanging. Except for 1 chossy line, they are all well equipped sport routes. It's in the guidebook.
By Peter Dodge
From: Duluth, MN
Aug 9, 2010
Where can you get the guidebook?
By Cam Gould
Aug 14, 2010
Peter, you can get the guidebook from Alpenglow Adventure Sports/Acadia Mountain Guides at 92 Main St., Orono or 228 Main St., Bar Harbor. Also online at alpenglowgear.com.
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Mar 25, 2011
Don Nelligan rocks!

If you don't know who I'm talking about then you haven't climbed at Clifton.
By steitz
From: midcoast, maine
Jul 23, 2013
Alright, Canadian :)