Login with Facebook
Cliffs of Insanity

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are There Rocks Ahead  T 
As you wish T 
Back to the Beginning T 
Broken Brain T 
Brute Squad T 
cave route  T 
Dirty Spaniard, The T 
Fairy Dust T 
Farm Boy T 
Fezzik  T 
Fire Swamp, The T 
Funny Farm T 
Gilder T 
Hors D~oeuvres T 
I've Seen Worse T 
Inconceivable T 
Inigo Montoya T 
Iocane Powder T 
Iron Lady Tower, The T 
jew fro an a boner T 
Jumping the Shark T 
Lobotomy T 
M.C.'s Hammer T 
Man In Black T 
Mawwage T 
Nurse Rachet T 
Nutter T 
Offwidth Your Head T 
Pit of Despair T 
Prepare To Die T 
Prince Humperdinky T 
Princess Buttercup T 
Puzzle Factory T 
R.O.U.S T 
Six Fingerd Man T 
Storming the Castle T 
Str8 Jacket T 
To The Pain T 
True Love T 
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter) T 
Unknown (way right of wiggins finger to fist obtuse corner) T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods) T 
Unknown OW (bombay flare left of wiggins routes) T 
Use Your Head T 
Vinciny T 
Wiggins I T 
Wiggins II T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cliffs of Insanity  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.15145, -109.59836 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 70,470
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 25, 2006


71° | 49°

76° | 51°

77° | 52°

78° | 52°

79° | 52°
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


A remote wall that is seldom visited for its lack of easier quality lines. There are probably a few very difficult lines to be had here but few people venture here.

Getting There 

A 45 minute approach

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.0 miles from here

48 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cliffs of Insanity:
Farm Boy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
cave route    5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Vinciny   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Princess Buttercup   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
R.O.U.S   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Unamed 5.10+ (far left hands splitter)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Unknown 5.10+ (off fingers/thin hands splitter w/ pods)   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Nurse Rachet   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Wiggins I   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
M.C.'s Hammer   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Offwidth Your Head   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Fairy Dust   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
I've Seen Worse   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 100'   
Lobotomy   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Funny Farm   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Wiggins II   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 150'   
Man In Black   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Six Fingerd Man   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 57'   
Puzzle Factory   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Broken Brain   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Cliffs of Insanity

Featured Route For Cliffs of Insanity
Stemming out to the finger crack on Funny Farm.

Funny Farm 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Cliffs of Insanity
Funny Farm is another great line, adding to the growing list at the Cliffs of Insanity. Start with fingers in a corner that gradually tapers down to tips with pods and then nothing. Clip a bolt on the right face and make suprisingly tricky and sequential moves to get through the crux. Continue up hands and big hands for another 25' until it is possible to stem out right to a nice finger crack on the right wall. Steep fingers with occasional pods for your hands and feet will take you to the a...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Cliffs of Insanity Slideshow Add Photo
the best love story ever told!
the best love story ever told!
end of the day 08
end of the day 08
The Cliffs of Insanity at the end of the day.
The Cliffs of Insanity at the end of the day.
The view from Cliffs of Insanity
The view from Cliffs of Insanity

Comments on Cliffs of Insanity Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 15, 2007
Can anybody give me more specifics on where to park for Cliffs of Insanity and where the approach trail starts. Bloom's guide does not seem to give definitive info. I was trying to scope the approach a couple years back but could not find the trail. I want to avoid slogging/eroding up the talus sans trail if possible.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 5, 2009
Some friends and I just made a new trail about a week ago on the north side of the cliff. Take the same dirt road as if your going to "The Wall" but stay straight instead of turning left. Follow the road for a half mile or so and take the first right and then the next right into a parking area with a fire ring. The trail is well marked and easy to follow and takes about 30 minutes to get to the base of the wall.
By alf
Feb 22, 2010
To Steve and friends:
thankyou very much for giving us a trail!
That is a lot of work and many folks will appreciate it.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012
Great trail! Thanx!!!

The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.

Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight down at our vehicle made it pretty difficult to hike all the way back along the cliff to the new trail and then back track a mile across the desert. Instead we used the old climbers trail that headed straight down. I think as an alternative trail to the cliff, especially if you don't have 4x4 or if you want to climb Lobotomy etc is to improve this old climbers trail.
By doligo
Nov 4, 2012
Just a heads up, there was a big rockfall on Halloween night 2012 - friends witnessed it from the Creek Pasture around 5pm. We climbed at the Cliffs the next day and found a rubble with bus-size boulders just right from the Puzzle Factory. That whole stretch of the trail is destroyed - thread lightly.
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 3, 2013
The car doesn't matter. Got back there last weekend in a Subi Legacy. The lowest of low subis'. Its all in the driver.
By Devin Fin
Sep 8, 2013
sweet Gaar !!!! I have taken some pretty low cars back to the East end of the Cliffs but you must drive like Steve Mcqueen! My self an some other creek people have been working on the prow trail but it's slow going as it is very old an washed out hope to have it dun an carrind up by rocktober..for easier axes to the climbs on the front end.. cheers DF
By Optimistic
From: New Paltz
Mar 18, 2015
As of March 2015 we were not able to get a "standard" clearance rental car (Passat) more than a short distance from the road via either the Meat Walls side or the Wall side. Plan on walking a fair ways if that happens to you. Still looks like a pretty solid approach even if you get your vehicle all the way to the end of either road. Cool wall, though, numerous moderates, a lot of solitude and nearly all day shade.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!