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Cliffs of Insanity

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Are There Rocks Ahead  
As you wish 
Back to the Beginning 
Broken Brain 
Brute Squad 
cave route  
Dirty Spaniard, The 
Fairy Dust 
Farm Boy 
Fire Swamp, The 
Funny Farm 
Hors D~oeuvres 
Inigo Montoya 
Iocane Powder 
Iron Lady Tower, The 
jew fro an a boner 
Jumping the Shark 
M.C.'s Hammer 
Man In Black 
Nurse Rachet 
Offwidth Your Head 
Prince Humperdinky 
Princess Buttercup 
Puzzle Factory 
Six Fingerd Man 
Storming the Castle 
Str8 Jacket 
To The Pain 
True Love 
Unamed 5.10+ 
Unknown 5.10+ 
Unknown OW 
Wiggins I 
Wiggins II 
Unsorted Routes:

Cliffs of Insanity 

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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 25, 2006
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Matt H climbing Wiggins 1


A remote wall that is seldom visited for its lack of easier quality lines. There are probably a few very difficult lines to be had here but few people venture here.

Getting There 

A 45 minute approach

43 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cliffs of Insanity:
Farm Boy   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
cave route    5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Mawwage   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Vinciny   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
To The Pain   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 230'   
Princess Buttercup   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
R.O.U.S   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Unamed 5.10+   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Unknown 5.10+   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Nurse Rachet   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Offwidth Your Head   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Wiggins I   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
M.C.'s Hammer   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Funny Farm   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   
Wiggins II   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 150'   
Six Fingerd Man   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 57'   
Man In Black   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Inconceivable   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Puzzle Factory   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Broken Brain   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Cliffs of Insanity

Featured Route For Cliffs of Insanity
This photo shows the entire route from the sandy start to the large roofs at the top.

Str8 Jacket 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Cliffs of Insanity
Warning there is route beta in this post for all you onsighters out there.This route is simply stunning! Josh Janes saw the line and showed it to Tom and three trips later we had put up a mega classic! The route starts up a dirty sandy corner for about 15' but don't worry the choss ends here. Once above the corner the true climbing begins with a interesting offwidth that is formed by two arete's pointing towards each other. There is a hidden #1 Camalot placement inside this offwidth ne...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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the best love story ever told!
the best love story ever told!
The Cliffs of Insanity at the end of the day.
The Cliffs of Insanity at the end of the day.
end of the day 08
end of the day 08
Comments on Cliffs of Insanity Add Comment
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 15, 2007

Can anybody give me more specifics on where to park for Cliffs of Insanity and where the approach trail starts. Bloom's guide does not seem to give definitive info. I was trying to scope the approach a couple years back but could not find the trail. I want to avoid slogging/eroding up the talus sans trail if possible.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 5, 2009

Some friends and I just made a new trail about a week ago on the north side of the cliff. Take the same dirt road as if your going to "The Wall" but stay straight instead of turning left. Follow the road for a half mile or so and take the first right and then the next right into a parking area with a fire ring. The trail is well marked and easy to follow and takes about 30 minutes to get to the base of the wall.

By alf
Feb 22, 2010

To Steve and friends:
thankyou very much for giving us a trail!
That is a lot of work and many folks will appreciate it.

By Princess Mia
From: Vail
May 6, 2012

Great trail! Thanx!!!

The road to the trail requires 4x4 and high clearance. I wouldn't take an Escape, Forrester, CR-V etc up the road. It is way too steep and rough. Yes the section is pretty short but still. We parked at the obvious flat parking area before the rough spot. Then hoofed it for a mile across the desert. A mtn bike would have been nice. The new trail is at the extreme left side of the cliff.

Now I must admit, after climbing on the right side of the cliff and looking straight down at our vehicle made it pretty difficult to hike all the way back along the cliff to the new trail and then back track a mile across the desert. Instead we used the old climbers trail that headed straight down. I think as an alternative trail to the cliff, especially if you don't have 4x4 or if you want to climb Lobotomy etc is to improve this old climbers trail.

By doligo
Nov 4, 2012

Just a heads up, there was a big rockfall on Halloween night 2012 - friends witnessed it from the Creek Pasture around 5pm. We climbed at the Cliffs the next day and found a rubble with bus-size boulders just right from the Puzzle Factory. That whole stretch of the trail is destroyed - thread lightly.

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 3, 2013

The car doesn't matter. Got back there last weekend in a Subi Legacy. The lowest of low subis'. Its all in the driver.

By Devin Fin
Sep 8, 2013

sweet Gaar !!!! I have taken some pretty low cars back to the East end of the Cliffs but you must drive like Steve Mcqueen! My self an some other creek people have been working on the prow trail but it's slow going as it is very old an washed out hope to have it dun an carrind up by rocktober..for easier axes to the climbs on the front end.. cheers DF