|Redgarden - Roof Routes
This is located left of T2's? first roof pitch, right of Kloberdanz and Private Idaho roofs. Climb the right-angling sequence of underclings, heel hooks, and levers to gain the lip. It is bolt protected.
This is located left of T2 Kloberdanz first roof pitch, right of Kloberdanz and Private Idaho roofs.
Bolts to anchors.
In 1979, The Clever Lever was climbed using aid fo...
|By Bob Rotert|
Jun 9, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I always liked this route. It's short but sweeet!! Amazing send by Greg Lowe. One of those stand out routes in difficulty for the time it was done.
|By Bart Paull|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
I'd say the route is something like a roped V7-V8, making it pretty stout for the given 12a/b.... Very worth doing, stick clip recommended!
|By kevin donald|
5 days ago
I agree with Bart Paull's comment that the "Clever Lever" is well worth doing and more like a roped boulder problem than an pitch of climbing. We did not use a clip stick at the time, but it sounds like a good idea, because a fall prior to clipping could cause some damage. I did the second free ascent of this little gem after ample beta from Greg Lowe (he had climbed it the day before while belayed by Bob Dodds). On my ascent, I was belayed by David Breashears, and I came very close to hitting he ground on each of 3 falls I took from the crux at the lip. Consequently, on my next attempt, David kept a close rope on me, and I have always wondered if the close belay aided my success. I compared notes with John Bachar about this the day after his successful attempt (after a few falls), and the next day when he attempted to solo the route, he flew-off at the lip, and we have all heard the rest of that story. I think it was raining when both Greg and I did the route which means it's a good route to work on when the rest of Eldorado is dripping wet.