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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Clever Lever S 
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Gem, The T 
Guardian Saint T 
Guen-Ice  T 
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Kloeberdanz T 
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Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
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Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 
Trippin T 
Tubesock Tanline T 
Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 

Clever Lever 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA:  Mike Tobias/Brian Robertson, circa 1970, FFA: Greg Lowe, 1976.
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 1,143
Submitted By: bhoran on Jan 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Bruce Bailey sends the Clever Lever. Photo: Bob Ho...

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  • Description 

    This is located left of T2's? first roof pitch, right of Kloberdanz and Private Idaho roofs. Climb the right-angling sequence of underclings, heel hooks, and levers to gain the lip. It is bolt protected.

    Location 

    This is located left of T2 Kloberdanz first roof pitch, right of Kloberdanz and Private Idaho roofs.

    Protection 

    Bolts to anchors.


    Photos of Clever Lever Slideshow Add Photo
    In 1979, The Clever Lever was climbed using aid for a Coors Commercial. The backround (Lizard Head, I believe) was composited-in (pre-Photoshop).
    In 1979, The Clever Lever was climbed using aid fo...

    Comments on Clever Lever Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Bob Rotert
    Jun 9, 2011
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    I always liked this route. It's short but sweeet!! Amazing send by Greg Lowe. One of those stand out routes in difficulty for the time it was done.
    By clintchesterfield024
    Mar 11, 2013

    Anyone have more info on this route or any updated pics?
    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 12, 2013
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    I'd say the route is something like a roped V7-V8, making it pretty stout for the given 12a/b.... Very worth doing, stick clip recommended!
    By kevin donald
    Jul 18, 2014

    I agree with Bart Paull's comment that the "Clever Lever" is well worth doing and more like a roped boulder problem than an pitch of climbing. We did not use a clip stick at the time, but it sounds like a good idea, because a fall prior to clipping could cause some damage. I did the second free ascent of this little gem after ample beta from Greg Lowe (he had climbed it the day before while belayed by Bob Dodds). On my ascent, I was belayed by David Breashears, and I came very close to hitting he ground on each of 3 falls I took from the crux at the lip. Consequently, on my next attempt, David kept a close rope on me, and I have always wondered if the close belay aided my success. I compared notes with John Bachar about this the day after his successful attempt (after a few falls), and the next day when he attempted to solo the route, he flew-off at the lip, and we have all heard the rest of that story. I think it was raining when both Greg and I did the route which means it's a good route to work on when the rest of Eldorado is dripping wet.

    Cheers!