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Hairy Pin
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Cleveland Route T 

Cleveland Route 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Pete Cleveland 1967
Page Views: 3,545
Submitted By: Christian B. Baird on Nov 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Climbing above the 2nd bolt on Cleveland Route. Ph...

Description 

Climb protectable crack then up'n right to knobs and 1st bolt. considerable 5.10 off bolt 15' to jug yellow hold, then still 10-15 feet to second bolt on lower angle shoulder. have a ready for running belayer, thanks travis!

Protection 

Two bolts.


Photos of Cleveland Route Slideshow Add Photo
Standing on the yellow jug. Early 90's
Standing on the yellow jug. Early 90's
According to the register I got the 10th ascent of this thing in like 1989. I wore tights then, so I'm not sure if it counts.
According to the register I got the 10th ascent of...

Comments on Cleveland Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 10, 2014
By Darin Limvere
Nov 1, 2007

There's also a piton that can be clipped before traversing to the first bolts.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008

X rating is not deserved. Falls at the crux are safe and very clean for slab/face.
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 21, 2008

I'll have to say the "X" rating is spot on. There are several places where ground fall is possible on this route. Yes the crux is reasonably well protected but a fall getting to the first bolt may well be very tragic. Crystals do break in the Needles on well traveled routes.
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 25, 2008

This sounds like the Barber Route, not the Cleveland Route. Neither way originally had any bolts, and there were a number of ascents of the Barber Route in its original boltless condition. John Bragg and I made one such ascent in the early seventies, I think. The Cleveland Route diagonaled right across the face after the initial moves and has, as far as I know, never been repeated on the lead.
By Dave Rone
From: Eau Claire, Wis
Sep 26, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X

Rich,
This is a similar description to the Cleveland route on Super Pin and I believe your observations about those routes are correct.

There are some similarities in the photo even, but this is describing the Cleveland route on Hairy Pin . . .

And while a fall from the crux section is no problem, falling from the shoulder just before the 2nd bolt would likely be very bad.
By josh balt
From: Hill City South Dakota
Jan 27, 2010

This is a cool route if you are thinking about doing it go for it, just make sure you have your head that day. I would call it 5.10 pg-13/R then 5.8 x after the crux.
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
May 12, 2010

Oops, my bad...I was indeed thinking the description was of Super Pin.

A historical note: Pete climbed pretty far up a tree near the face to rig some protection for climbing up to and placing the first bolt.
By Dave Rone
From: Eau Claire, Wis
May 13, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X

I remember that tree! It was in place for a long time, but it's gone now. Unfortunately that tree and many others in the vicinity were cut down, cut up, and left to lay as a result of the Pine Beetle infestation. Too bad, it looks like crap around the base of Hairy Pin now, and in many parts of the Hills as well.
By hj schmidt
Jul 12, 2010

Got on this July 5th. Anyone know what happened to the summit register? It was a cool one, and I was sad to see it gone.
By Dave Rone
From: Eau Claire, Wis
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X

The summit register from Hairy Pin has been gone for many years. Seems like I last saw one about 10 years ago.
By W. Spaller
From: Boulder
Nov 28, 2010

I've heard there is an epic story to Pete's first ascent of this route. I won't try to repeat it since I don't remember the details too well. Anyone?
By Tim McCabe
Jan 21, 2011

Well I will try to recall the story of the first ascent.

As I recall Pete had placed the first bolt climbed the crux and then was on his way to the summit when:

His belayer (I forget if it was Dick (Doc) Laptad or Renn Fenton) locked him off on the ledge where the second bolt is and refused to feed more rope until he drilled the second bolt.

I did this route a couple of times and honestly I don't think the second bolt does much good as all of the hard climbing is over and you are only a few feet from the top.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 10, 2014

Did this route in the seventies. I had been climbing for about two years. Paul Muell (SP) told me it was safe and not too hard. Scared the crap out of myself and I never much cared for Paul after he sandbagged me like that. It made me much more cautious about what I climbed in the needles.