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> Campi Qui Pugui
Cleptomania
5.12d YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 28 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Campi Qui Pugui
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Accelera Virtuoso S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Algo muy sucio S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Anabolica S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Cleptomania S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Delicatessan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El iogurín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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El logurín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rodriguez Y Rodriguez S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Saiko Dase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Siouxie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Toca-me-la Sam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Triste Pesadilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,466 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
Cleptomania is an excellent, sustained, technical wall climb, with several cruxes split by rests, but none so good that they diminish the endurance element. The rock is rather sharp, but on the other hand, its relatively un-polished.
Boulder up to the dangerously high first bolt. Follow a vertical seam to a horizontal break, & make balancey moves to reach the diagonal rail. Work up the rail to slopey pockets and a shake. Move back left & up, via thin, sharp crimps and a sinker pocket, to an awkward rest in a scoop. The crux works right along the strenuous, balancey undercling crack, to reach a sickle-shaped edge. Move over the intimidating bulge on thin, slopey edges to a stance on the slab below an interesting shallow crack feature. A few more techy moves on incut holds leads to the anchor.
Boulder up to the dangerously high first bolt. Follow a vertical seam to a horizontal break, & make balancey moves to reach the diagonal rail. Work up the rail to slopey pockets and a shake. Move back left & up, via thin, sharp crimps and a sinker pocket, to an awkward rest in a scoop. The crux works right along the strenuous, balancey undercling crack, to reach a sickle-shaped edge. Move over the intimidating bulge on thin, slopey edges to a stance on the slab below an interesting shallow crack feature. A few more techy moves on incut holds leads to the anchor.
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