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 ADVANCED
Campi Qui Pugui
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Anabolica S 
Cleptomania S 
Delicatessan S 
El logurín S 
Rodriguez Y Rodriguez S 
Saiko Dase S 
Siouxie S 
Toca-me-la Sam S 
Triste Pesadilla S 

Cleptomania 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 10, 2009

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Starting up "Cleptomania".

Description 

Cleptomania is an excellent, sustained, technical wall climb, with several cruxes split by rests, but none so good that they diminish the endurance element. The rock is rather sharp, but on the other hand, its relatively un-polished.

Boulder up to the dangerously high first bolt. Follow a vertical seam to a horizontal break, & make balancey moves to reach the diagonal rail. Work up the rail to slopey pockets and a shake. Move back left & up, via thin, sharp crimps and a sinker pocket, to an awkward rest in a scoop. The crux works right along the strenuous, balancey undercling crack, to reach a sickle-shaped edge. Move over the intimidating bulge on thin, slopey edges to a stance on the slab below an interesting shallow crack feature. A few more techy moves on incut holds leads to the anchor.


Location 

At the far left end of Campi is a ledge that hosts five routes. This is the fourth route from the left, immediately right of "Triste Pesadilla".


Protection 

Bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.



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Cleptomania from the ground.
Cleptomania from the ground.
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