Login with Facebook
Cleopatra's Needle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral T 
Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib T,TR 
East Comfort Route T 
Northwest Side T,TR 
Southeast Arete T 

Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,751
Submitted By: Maikey Lopera on Jul 27, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Aaron and Rebekah enjoying the view from Cleo's ne...

Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!


This route is on the opposite side of the regular route up Cleo's Needle. The route starts below an overhang between the two obvious cracks. Surpass the overhang by climbing the right crack. Once over the overhang follow the rib up to the ledge below summit block. Traverse left to another ledge at same level. Once on this ledge climb to the top on small edges and right corner (crux of the route). Belay at the top from the summit ring.


To protect up to the ledge below the summit block use medium size nuts and cams( up to 1"). The move left from the rib to the ledge is well protected with a red allien(0.75"). Once on ledge a #3 BD stopper can be used on horizontal crack at the base of the summit block.

Photos of Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib Slideshow Add Photo
Having a quick drink
Having a quick drink
Enjoying the top
Enjoying the top
Cleos Needle_Southwest Rib 5.7
BETA PHOTO: Cleos Needle_Southwest Rib 5.7
My brother Daniel reaches the top of the needle.
My brother Daniel reaches the top of the needle.
This has gotta be the best way to the top.  You st...
This has gotta be the best way to the top. You st...
Southwest Rib.
Southwest Rib.
Top Out on Cleos
Top Out on Cleos

Comments on Cleos Needle-Southwest Rib Add Comment
Show which comments
By Don LaBelle
Jan 31, 2005

Climbed with Ben Sanders, ( he led it and I cleaned it)was in the spring, and was a nice route. There is a permenent bolt to rap down on at the top. This is a good place to have lunch.
By Stephen Marsh
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 6, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I started in the dihedral to the left of the line drawn in the picture and followed that up till I was at the base of the summit block. I then went around to the right and up to the summit. This route needs to see more traffic, there was too many spiders & webs on the way up. The summit is what earns it 3 stars.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 16, 2008


You are talking about the 5.6 dihedral that starts to the left of the 5.7 rib. I just climbed it. It was pretty fun.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Nov 21, 2008

I've always finished this route by way of the standard block finish, which climbs up the east-side of the block.

The nut in a horizontal protects the top block. I think the nut makes it pretty well protected. The block climbing is probably 5.4ish.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!