|Redgarden - S Buttress
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb & Joseffa Meir, 9/10/11(?)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Faces East/Southeast|
|Page Views: ||177|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Sep 11, 2011|
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This variation lies somewhere between being a short route or a long, highball boulder problem. While it lies only a few feet away from an existing line, just around the corner of the same roof, the climbing is quite significantly different and considerably more challenging.
While the climbing on this is physically closer to Horizontal Beginnings, it is more consistent in difficulty and nature with 'Cleopatra Says There Will Be a Chance of Rain From the North', and thus I chose to name this variation similarly to that route. Since we did it on my birthday, the name seemed to fit.
Starting up the dark water streak as for Horizontal Beginnings, pull up under the apex of the large roof and below a short section of hand-to-fist crack. Place gear, get established in some underclings, place more gear in the hands-to-fist flare, and pull the roof directly into the short, shallow, and flaring crack onto the arete and face above and right of 'Horizontal Beginnings.' There is a finger-lock above the fist section and the arete is pinch-able. Continue a move up the arete on the right side and run it out on moderate terrain (5.7?) to another overlap, the climb up over this and beyond to join Pseudo Sidetrack.
The independent moves on this line are pretty cool and on pretty good rock and worth trying. It is powerful and somewhat gymnastic climbing. My much shorter partner found that the roof was very hard if you don't have the height to pull the 4-5 foot roof with your feet still on the back wall.
This route lies under the same roof system as 'Cleopatra Says There Will Be a Chance of Rain From the North' and 'Horizontal Beginnings.' The former of these two may perhaps be the longest route name in all of Eldo....
This variation route starts up the dark water streak as for Horizontal Beginnings, just left of the original start as for Anthill or Pseudo Sidetrack.
A standard light rack. A #3 Camalot was the crux protection.
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