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 ADVANCED
The Citadel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival T 
Clem's Folly T 
Finger Breakers TR 
Finger Zinger S 
Glad We Came S 
Iron Worker T 
Murray's Crack T 
Nose, The T 
Second Thoughts T 
Stem Cell Research T 
Styx n Stones T 
West Ridge T 
Wish You Were Here T 

Clem's Folly 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dick Ingraham & Clem Ota, 1972
Page Views: 1,411
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Looking up at the crux-dihedral.

Description 

The first pitch dihedral of this 3 pitch route has stellar climbing and can easily be done on its own. From first appearances though this climb can be easily overlooked. The bottom half of the first pitch climbs up a moss filled gully and is not exactly appealing. However, once the dihedral is obtained the climbing is superb. The dihedral offers intermittent flaring hand/finger cracks and requires creative stemming and smart gear placement.

P2 heads right towards an old 1/4" bolt about 15' away and keeps going right until a dihedral is encountered. Cut right under a roof at the top of the dihedral to a belay stance above a large boulder. P3 follows a 25' hand-crack to another ledge and then easy 5th class scrambling to the summit.

Location 

The base of this climb is near the clearing at the bottom of the descent gully for Glad We Came. Either start directly from the left edge of this clearing, or bushwhack 15' further east and climb directly up to the dihedral.

Protection 

Standard rack. The anchor at the top of P1 is a new 1/2" bolt with a rap-ring, backed up by a piton.


Photos of Clem's Folly Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Edmond at the base of Clem's Folly. The dihed...
BETA PHOTO: Mike Edmond at the base of Clem's Folly. The dihed...
One version of the route. The crux dihedral is Pit...
BETA PHOTO: One version of the route. The crux dihedral is Pit...

Comments on Clem's Folly Add Comment
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By Reed Cundiff
Sep 13, 2010

This climb was put up by Dick Ingram and Clem Ota. It is so named because Clem took a bad fall on it. Both of them showed up at the Southwestern Mountaineer part at the Pizza Boulders that afternoon. Clem looked much the worse for wear
By ascender30
Mar 14, 2011

The Dihedral of the first pitch is certainly worth doing, but unless you need to get to the top of The Citdael, I suggest rapping down from the top of P1. If you do top out, head left (South) about 60' and find rap anchors on a slab at the top of the gully that is South around the BIG corner from Clem's Folly. Double-Rope rap down into the gully, then SLOG down and bushwack across to the Clem's Folly start (not recommended).
By Reed Cundiff
Nov 29, 2011

Saw Clem Ota on 25 November when he came by for Thanksgiving dinner at son Charlie's place. Looks older than 1972.
By Marta Reece
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 26, 2013

Pitch 1 can be profitably split in two by stopping on a ledge at the base of the dihedral. (The bush with slings on it you find there is not recommended as an anchor.) Doing it in two pitches will give you less drag for the dihedral and your belayer a better view of what you are doing. The belay is both comfortable and safe.

I have enjoyed the two pitches above, which we have done slightly to the right of the description given, and have not found the way back to the packs all that onerous. To avoid a bad bushwhack, you need to stay right under the cliff for the traverse to the left.