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Torre Principal
Select Route:
Chocolate Liquido (6a+) T 
Clemenzo T 
Ruta Normal T 
Sarandonga e Chicharones T 
Sinestro Total T 


YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,165
Submitted By: Guiseppi Mostaccioli on Nov 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Dennis starts up Clemenzo.


This is a ... six pitch route? I believe we did it in six. The first two are easy climbing 4a to 4b, eventually reaching a ledge belay, followed by a 5a section to a second ledge belay. After that, there's a pitch topped with a fantastic cave that contains a giant triangle which requires you to walk out towards space. In the back wall are wedged old pieces of wood. The route still has quite a few old pitons, some having been replaced by bolts. The summit block is technically the most difficult section, a face climb across ten old pitons and new bolts to the incredible summit.


Middle of the east face of Principal.


We carried a set of nuts and a double rack to BD 3.5. All raps are fixed stations. One of the last is an equalized pair of old pitons!

Photos of Clemenzo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice fingers before the chimney
Nice fingers before the chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Dennis atop Torre Principal
Dennis atop Torre Principal
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh leading a pitch on Clemenzo.  The OW looked i...
Josh leading a pitch on Clemenzo. The OW looked i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading out of the Cave belay on Clemenzo.  I reme...
Leading out of the Cave belay on Clemenzo. I reme...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clemenzo chimney!
Clemenzo chimney!

Comments on Clemenzo Add Comment
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By Dan Flynn
From: MA
Jan 23, 2014

We summited via a 6a face climb after traversing around following the cave pitch. Rapped straight (ish) down and found 60 m rope to be somehow just short on several of our raps... so be careful!
By alon
Oct 13, 2014

Regarding Clemenzo,
Beautiful alpine route, I think you should be solid on 5.9 to have fun.
The first and second pitch are 4+. But I'm not sure If I' ll do them without a rope. What I' m saying is that they are involved pitches. Fun.
The third pitch, chimeny/ dihedro ( sorry the translation) it felt 5,9, solid but My buddy selected the gear and I Forgot Lucas was a 5.12+ climber. So I was kind of gripped for the lack of gear.
The cave (4 pitch) it's a really funky funny crazy pitch, ( short). you sort of walk on an edge and push against the roofed crack.
Then you traverse/ walk right. The last pitch is 6a or 9+ face with bolts ( 5 or 6 bolts)
You can rappel the whole route vía "the normal route" with one 60 mts rope.
Frey is a superb high quality granite spire área. It's defínetly a climbing destination. And it's possible to spend 3 months, between climbing, the sun, the lake, the hut. And been just a few hours from the city.

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