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Torre Principal
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Clemenzo 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 757
Submitted By: Guiseppi Mostaccioli on Nov 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Dennis starts up Clemenzo.

Description 

This is a ... six pitch route? I believe we did it in six. The first two are easy climbing 4a to 4b, eventually reaching a ledge belay, followed by a 5a section to a second ledge belay. After that, there's a pitch topped with a fantastic cave that contains a giant triangle which requires you to walk out towards space. In the back wall are wedged old pieces of wood. The route still has quite a few old pitons, some having been replaced by bolts. The summit block is technically the most difficult section, a face climb across ten old pitons and new bolts to the incredible summit.

Location 

Middle of the east face of Principal.

Protection 

We carried a set of nuts and a double rack to BD 3.5. All raps are fixed stations. One of the last is an equalized pair of old pitons!


Photos of Clemenzo Slideshow Add Photo
Nice fingers before the chimney
Nice fingers before the chimney
Dennis atop Torre Principal
Dennis atop Torre Principal
Josh leading a pitch on Clemenzo.  The OW looked i...
Josh leading a pitch on Clemenzo. The OW looked i...
Leading out of the Cave belay on Clemenzo.  I reme...
Leading out of the Cave belay on Clemenzo. I reme...
Clemenzo chimney!
Clemenzo chimney!

Comments on Clemenzo Add Comment
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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Jan 23, 2014

We summited via a 6a face climb after traversing around following the cave pitch. Rapped straight (ish) down and found 60 m rope to be somehow just short on several of our raps... so be careful!
By alon
Oct 13, 2014

Regarding Clemenzo,
Beautiful alpine route, I think you should be solid on 5.9 to have fun.
The first and second pitch are 4+. But I'm not sure If I' ll do them without a rope. What I' m saying is that they are involved pitches. Fun.
The third pitch, chimeny/ dihedro ( sorry the translation) it felt 5,9, solid but My buddy selected the gear and I Forgot Lucas was a 5.12+ climber. So I was kind of gripped for the lack of gear.
The cave (4 pitch) it's a really funky funny crazy pitch, ( short). you sort of walk on an edge and push against the roofed crack.
Then you traverse/ walk right. The last pitch is 6a or 9+ face with bolts ( 5 or 6 bolts)
You can rappel the whole route vía "the normal route" with one 60 mts rope.
Frey is a superb high quality granite spire área. It's defínetly a climbing destination. And it's possible to spend 3 months, between climbing, the sun, the lake, the hut. And been just a few hours from the city.