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Torre Principal
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Clemenzo 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Guiseppi Mostaccioli on Nov 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Dennis starts up Clemenzo.

Description 

This is a ... six pitch route? I believe we did it in six. The first two are easy climbing 4a to 4b, eventually reaching a ledge belay, followed by a 5a section to a second ledge belay. After that, there's a pitch topped with a fantastic cave that contains a giant triangle which requires you to walk out towards space. In the back wall are wedged old pieces of wood. The route still has quite a few old pitons, some having been replaced by bolts. The summit block is technically the most difficult section, a face climb across ten old pitons and new bolts to the incredible summit.


Location 

Middle of the east face of Principal.


Protection 

We carried a set of nuts and a double rack to BD 3.5. All raps are fixed stations. One of the last is an equalized pair of old pitons!



Photos of Clemenzo Slideshow Add Photo
Nice fingers before the chimney
Nice fingers before the chimney
Dennis atop Torre Principal
Dennis atop Torre Principal
Josh leading a pitch on Clemenzo.  The OW looked intimidating, but I think we went to the left.
Josh leading a pitch on Clemenzo. The OW looked i...
Leading out of the Cave belay on Clemenzo.  I remember this being a bit scary.
Leading out of the Cave belay on Clemenzo. I reme...
Clemenzo chimney!
Clemenzo chimney!
Comments on Clemenzo Add Comment
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By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Jan 23, 2014

We summited via a 6a face climb after traversing around following the cave pitch. Rapped straight (ish) down and found 60 m rope to be somehow just short on several of our raps... so be careful!