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 ADVANCED
The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amputee Love T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M T,S 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

Clementine 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Layton Kor and Ben Chidlaw, 1959
Page Views: 2,472
Submitted By: Jeremy Gilbert on Mar 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route begins low on the SW side of the formation, up and left around the cave and bouldering at the base. Locate a left-facing corner, climb up about 15 ft. and traverse right (the hardest part to protect), and over the bulge. Stick to the left, unless you like bushwacking, and climb an easy face that leads to an easy crack (some loose rocks) which will take you to the false summit. A 60m trad. rope allowed us to complete in one pitch. Descend from cable at the top of the West Dihedral (10 ft. to the NE).


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Clementine Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling the bulge on pitch 1 on great, solid jugs all the way up.
Pulling the bulge on pitch 1 on great, solid jugs ...
Comments on Clementine Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 22, 2014
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 21, 2002

Actually, the 2nd pitch (5.3) can be a nice alternative to the West Crack 5.2, West Dihedral 5.4, West Face 5.6, if you are up on this ledge. This pitch should not get a "bomb" rating, although the 1st pitch merits such a fate.

By Corinne McKay
Mar 14, 2003

My husband and I did this climb today and quite liked it. Be aware that although this climb is indicated as a good first lead at the grade, the traverse over the bulge on the first pitch is pretty hard to protect and not something that seems great for a nervous or beginning leader. We climbed it as two pitches, with the second pitch starting from the ledge on the arete and continuing up the large obvious crack on the fin- the Falcon guide to Eldorado indicates this as 5.0 but Serious Play calls it 5.4, the climbing is not very hard at all, but it's not for the exposure-averse since you're basically climbing along the top of the Whale's [Tail] fin. However if exposure doesn't bother you, it's a fantastic climb. Be extremely careful of loose rock at the belay ledge for the second pitch, as we almost knocked a cooler-sized boulder off by standing on it. If there is a party on West Dihedral, it's an easy traverse over to the anchor above the 5.2 crack to rappel, a 70m rope gets you to the ground. Have fun!

By Brendan Sheehan
Jun 16, 2003

I thought the traverse and bulge on P1 made it a fun pitch. Very solid pro is available but not obvious before the bulge. P2 is interesting and a little airy. Good climb overall.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 17, 2003

A fun, airy climb that does not deserve a bomb rating.

By Larry Shaw
Jul 5, 2004
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Did the second pitch from the main belay ledge...one of my favorite climbs in Eldo, easy climbing with great position.

By Kevin Cole
Jul 21, 2004

On 7/17 we did this climb. Just before the end of the 2nd pitch, the "cooler" size boulder mentioned in a previous comments was accidently kicked off and only by the grace of God did it miss me (I was belaying on the ledge). A hairy moment for sure but still a nice 2 pitch climb. Anyone know why the differing rates b/t the 2 books mentioned previously?

By Paul Weiss
Nov 1, 2004
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Just my opinion. 5.4 - if you don't mind exposure. 5.5- if you dislike exposure

By DanMoore
Aug 30, 2005
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I did this route this morning and I'd do it again. The traverse on the first pitch is spicy. For me, it was s/vs--the feet aren't obvious, I didn't see many protection placements and was afraid I'd hit the ground, and the handholds had little flakes of rock coming off.

Then, some fun exposed moves on giant handholds. After that, had to do a bit of gardening to the ledge.

But the second pitch was fantastic--pro when you wanted it, a lot of exposure and easy climbing.

Overall, I'd say it's 5.5. Certainly felt harder than Breezy or the West Dihedral.

By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Mar 17, 2007

If you're short on time, both pitches can be linked with a 60 meter rope...barely. But, of course, this means long slings on everything, or the rope drag will suck.

By Adam Ingram
From: Golden, CO
Apr 11, 2008

Soloed this route 2 times now, and the upper pitch seemed a little sketch. In that big 5.0 rated crack the whole left side sounds and feels hollow. That thing is come'n down sooner than later in my opinion. Really fun climb, but probably won't get on it much ever again, the second pitch that is. Definitely all about the first pitch.

By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2009

This is a classic at this grade. Very steep for a 5.5 but the holds are all there keeping a legit 5.5. That's what makes a route fun IMHO, a steep climb with exposure that really makes you feel like you're climbing even if its only 5.5.

I agree with the previous poster. The traverse right at the base leaves a big gap in the pro on some of the hardest moves low down. So be confident and move quickly before you can get a piece in just before you turn the corner.

By Skip Thompson
Aug 22, 2014

I lead this climb today. Having just led 8 starred 5.5s in the Gunks, I can attest to the validity of a 5.5 grade for both pitches of this route. I don't think the "easy" crack up the exposed, 2-foot wide spine involves anything less than a 5.4 or 5.5 set of moves. To protect the traverse (very exciting, very 5.5) on the first pitch, bring a black tri-cam--I was sadly lacking mine today and bemoaning the fact to my second!