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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Clear the Deck 
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Clear the Deck 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c X

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: [Eric Guokas led, 1983]
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 7, 2001
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  • Description 

    This is a "direct" (straight-up) start to Guenese which is most-often top-roped off the double-bolt anchors below the roof band, hence the proliferation of chalk on the holds. It climbs the rounded pillar feature down and right of the start of Guenese before tackling a cruxy leftwards traverse that leads into the upper half of the first pitch of Guenese.

    Some shaky psychological pro can be placed in a loose flake down and right before starting the traverse, but it's more likely to whack you in the face than hold a fall. Thankfully, the holds are positive and the deck is a mere 30+ feet away.


    Protection 

    You can't get much in besides psychological pro --the smallest TCU you have (Metolius #00) and an RP or two go behind some horribly flexing flakes. Once you reach Guenese you'll need a mid-range cam and some quickdraws for the bolts.



    Comments on Clear the Deck Add Comment
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    By Joe Huggins
    From: 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
    Feb 14, 2002

    I remember belaying Eric on this, it was real scary. He used Chouinard Cracknups for pro. Good thing he didn't fall.

    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Jul 16, 2005

    Gear Alert

    The climbing on this pitch is fun, although I DO NOT recommend this route to anyone for whom it is anywhere near his or her top level of ability. I was much stronger than the route when I did it. Falling is not an option. To do so, especially from the crux, will likely prove fatal. I did the route on-sight, with a rack of quickdraws and a few tiny RPs. Within the first twenty feet, it became clear to me that I would be soloing up to the bolt on Guenese. At that point, I shouted down to my belayer, [Boulos], just give me lots of slack and get out of the way, so that we both don't die." Sorry, B, but I never did know how to spell your name. The look on his face actually made me chuckle, although I was acutely aware of the seriousness of my situation. This route is essentially a free solo up the last bolt on Guenese. The crux move is a left-handed gaston on a small positive edge, at approximately thirty feet above the deck.

    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 17, 2006

    Boulos.