|153 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10d [details]|
|Season: ||spring through fall (north facing)|
|Submitted By: ||slim on Jul 21, 2010|
Clear Lycra is a very good, pretty long, steep slab route on nice rock. As with all of the routes on this wall, the first bolt is up there a ways, and continuously difficult climbing is found well above the bolts.
Begin from the bergshrund-like rock gully and carefully edge, smedge, and smear past the first 2 bolts (this felt like the crux). Above the 2nd bolt, angle up and left on easier climbing (Hubbel's blue book shows this as up and right) to the 3rd bolt. The climbing gets less steep above the 3rd bolt, but is still fairly continuous in the 5.9 range. Hubbel's book shows a bolted anchor to the right, but I didn't see it. Instead, there is a fairly stout juniper on a ledge up to the right.
Clear Lycra is the left-most route on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Scramble up a rock gully at the base of the wall (kind of like a rock bergschrund). Hubbel's guide shows bolted anchors at the top, but they aren't there. There is a sturdy juniper to the right, but you will need webbing and biners if you want to rap. Or, you can walk left on the ledge and hike down. Or, you can traverse the ledge farther to the right to a 2 bolt anchor (old buttonheads and/or Stardryvens) which will require new webbing.
5 good bolts if I remember correctly. Continuous, 5.9 to 5.10ish climbing is encountered well above the bolts.