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Cleaning overhaning sport routes
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Nov 16, 2010
me
This might be a very beginner question but what's the best way to clean a sport route with a very steep overhang? On lesser overhangs when being lowered off the anchors I would always clip a draw to my belay loop and then clip the other end around the rope to guide my down so I could pull my quickdraws off. However on a steep overhang like this one it doesn't seem to work. Gravity takes effect and I still end up getting lowered more or less straight down.

Thanks in Advance
ccerling
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2010
56 points
Nov 16, 2010
Vanagon
you could climb it again on top rope. dameeser
From denver
Joined Sep 1, 2009
170 points
Nov 17, 2010
Mike placing the number 6 on Rye Flake
All you have to do is have an attentive belayer stop lowering once you become level with the draw and you pull yourself in. Find a nearby handhold to take tension off of the draw and unclip. Keygate biners make things easier. Do keep yourself clipped into the lowering rope with another draw as you described. Mike Minson
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 29, 2010
23 points
Nov 17, 2010
dameeser wrote:
you could climb it again on top rope.


+1
..........
Joined Mar 22, 2010
7 points
Nov 17, 2010
Half dome Cables
dameeser wrote:
you could climb it again on top rope.


+2

Lower off, then have someone or yourself follow the climb on top rope and clean the draws while either of you climb up to the anchors
Jan Tarculas
From Riverside, Ca
Joined Mar 6, 2010
787 points
Nov 17, 2010
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo
Mike Minson has the best solution. Following is a pain unless you will not fall off. When you fall following it is not always possible to get back on. Better to tram in and clean on the lower. 1Eric Rhicard
Joined Feb 15, 2006
8,616 points
Nov 22, 2010
Chew toyed
Eric Rhicard wrote:
Mike Minson has the best solution. Following is a pain unless you will not fall off. When you fall following it is not always possible to get back on. Better to tram in and clean on the lower.



indeed, especially in the southeast where the routes tend to be excessively steep and you usually are gassed by the end of the day....or sometimes "way before" then..

To add to MM's post, if it is getting supersteep, flipping upside down and pulling yourself back in hand over hand is sometimes "helpful". It also can take a "team effort" between climber and belayer to "bump" the cleaner back in at critical moments and keep the slack from decking the climber at the first bolt....lots of variables to pay attention to...



"Anyone want to clean this for me?"
"Anyone want to clean this for me?"
James Arnold
From Chattanooga
Joined Dec 21, 2008
71 points


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