Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Cleaning a route you didn't get up



View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums


Page 1 of 1.  
 
By Mark Kauz
From Madison, WI
Mar 20, 2010
Up on Rat Stew.

Okay, super beginner question, but I'm going to the Red for my first real sport climbing trip, and in anticipation of getting shut down pretty hard, I want to know if theres a good way to clean a route you didn't get up. I don't want to lose any draws because I climbed a bit beyond my ability.


FLAG
By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Mar 20, 2010
Bocan

Bail biner. I think there is something funky called the texas rope trick too..

www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=1657055;


FLAG
By Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Mar 20, 2010
Almost there......

As a beginner, stay away from the texas rope trick. You are increasing risk to save about $2.50.
The bail biner is the standard last resort. But even then you will first need to exhaust all other possibilities, such as:

  • One of your mates might actually pull the move.
  • You might be able to get up by via a brownpoint (grabbing draws).
  • There might be a ropegun nearby who'll finish it for you for a bribe (Mota y cervesa).
  • You could go off in-direct, and place the rope above you at the next bolt with a stick clip.
  • You could stick clip up the entire thing; but... eeewww.
  • You might find that if you work it enough you'll eventually send it, in the meantime getting used to taking sport falls.
  • You could leave all your draws in place, pull the rope and leave for a break. Then when you come back to find all of them gone, post up a whine here and then get 4 days solid of smartassery from the MP community for being so stoopid.

Bail biner: if you don't yet have a couple that you've found, then buy one or two cheapos to add to the kitty. We all circulate the things. They come and go, and if you start out with good karma by donating a few you should be hooked up with continuous supply for a while. Just get a couple nice fat ovals.
If you decide you need to puss out-errr, I mean bail, the best way is to clip off to the bolt indirect, get off belay and rap off. You lessen the load on that bolt by half from being lowered.


FLAG
By Mark Kauz
From Madison, WI
Mar 20, 2010
Up on Rat Stew.

Sweet. I was thinking about just having a few biners on hand. Definitely going to stay away from the Texas Rope Trick. And I don't plan on giving up easily, and someone in my group will likely stick a move I can't make, but I don't wanna make them do it over and over to bail me out. Thanks for the help.


FLAG
By Jonathan Callahan
From The Cascades
Mar 20, 2010

If you've got other folks in your group that will most likely be able to finish the route, you could just offer to go first and put up the draws. No big deal if you don't get the whole route.

Just be sure to balance your karma and offer to clean on easier routes.


FLAG
By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Mar 20, 2010
Me and Spearhead

One cool thing about hitting up super popular sport crags like the Red is that a lot of times the uber classics in the harder grades are being constantly projected and have draws hanging on them.
Just pick out a route you're interested in and if you trust the gear thats in place then have at it and it's no big deal if you can't get to the chains.


FLAG
By Dan G0D5H411
From Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 20, 2010
Dan on Hurricane

Remember that the Red is still sandstone and while most bolts are good, it is not worth your life to risk lowering off one bolt. On any sport climb where I am on softer rock or questionable bolts, I will clip in direct (while still on belay), clip my rope through a bail biner at my current bolt AND through another bail biner on the bolt below. Then your belayer can lower you while you clean your draws. Some may say this is overkill but I think I am worth more than 5 bucks. On the REALLY steep routes, it also makes it easier to clean your route when being lowered vs rapping from your bail biner.


FLAG
By Sam Stephens
Mar 21, 2010
Top half of Melifluous

Andrew Haag wrote:
Ive never been to the RED, however you can always downclimb and clean as you go, sounds sketch I know but really not that bad. So long as the routes arent too run out.


On that note, just unclip and take falls all the way til you get to the first bolt and then downclimb after you pull that draw off. I mean, whatever?


FLAG
By Derek W
Mar 21, 2010
First summit of First Flatiron

Sam Stephens wrote:
On that note, just unclip and take falls all the way til you get to the first bolt and then downclimb after you pull that draw off. I mean, whatever?


I was going to say the same thing, except I say that tough guys just jump after pulling the bottom draw.

Never said I was tough though...


FLAG

Page 1 of 1.