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S-Curve - Upper Wall
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Beware of Dog 
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Clean Underwear 
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Urban Sprawl 

Clean Underwear 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian and Jonathon Smoot 1990
Page Views: 1,633
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 8, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Thomas at the start.

Description 

On the east end of The Upper Wall are many bolted lines. This is the 2nd from the east. It starts atop a small pedestal. It then climbs juggy roofs to the anchors.


Protection 

2 bolts for the anchors and 4 draws for the climb.



Photos of Clean Underwear Slideshow Add Photo
Talia on the big roof of Clean Underwear.
Talia on the big roof of Clean Underwear.
Don't fall here or you'll deck on lead.  I suggest another bolt in between 2 and 3.
Don't fall here or you'll deck on lead. I suggest...
Comments on Clean Underwear Add Comment
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By Lee Gitlin
May 13, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The crux is right after the second bolt. We went right of the bolt. Lots of nice jugs and body position is helpful, since the route is steep. This route shares anchors with the .10a immediately west.

By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Apr 29, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

As of 4/29/2006, there are separate anchors for Urban Sprawl (5.10a) to the left (west).

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

There are so many chalked "holds" at the crux, it's not even funny any more. Last time i was warming-up on this route without paying too much attention to what I was doing and I did a long reach for something that was about as covered in chalk as this flake on one of the Gate boulders. I was expecting a bucket-sized jug, it turned out to be a sloppy old bulge that would have felt good on a 5.13... I decked on the ramp below and was almost too scared to get back up to retrive my draw before bailing...

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jul 23, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

Whats with the spacy bolting on one of the harder parts of the climb with potential decking on the big boulder? Definitely don't try going left of the bolt or left up the roof makes it a lot harder and scarier.

By Michael Buchanan
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun. Chill. One of my first leads years ago.

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 12, 2012

To stay left at the crux requires a pretty good ape-index. I'd advise staying right if you don't have one!

By Mark Alston
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Lots of false chalked holds at the crux (2nd bolt) on the left. Everyone and his dog has chalked up are desperately grabbed for holds that way. Go right after 2nd bolt and you will be good. Psyched me out first attempt and wasted a ton of energy trying to go left.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
5 days ago

All those chalked holds to the left of the second bolt are hilarious. Desperately tried to find a decent hold on any of them, but they were all bad. Went right and was much easier. Standard s-curve climbing - steep and pumpy.